DirtyComanche

I left rubber in more than one intersection learning to drive stick... I figured it's better to peel the tires than to stall it. And that made me the driver I am today :nuts: "Dude, aren't you gonna put it in low range?" "Nah, I don't care about my clutch" "Damn, that smells bad"

I hope so. Because I've seen the proof.

You can rebuild the unitized hubs if you really are trying to pinch coin. You just need to know somebody with a big enough press. I think the bearing that go in them are about $40 each. So, it's still not cheap, but it's cheaper.

How much do you value your spine? 'Cause it'll be nice and squished if you drive a lot...

I killed a TW myself. Pulled the slip shaft on it at full throttle. As the driveshaft centrifuged out it broke/flattened every yoke, crushed every u-joint, and twisted off a bunch of the splines. I didn't know he sold any extended warantee. I don't think it would have covered that anyways. A learning experience - buy a long travel shaft if you're getting it built from scratch anyways.

Yeah, it's always a risk. This one looks more likely to be servicable than the last. I had him pull the record on the jeep it came from and it was a side impact. So assumably it was running/driving when it got totalled.

Wheel it? Hard? A HD SYE is a strength upgrade, worth it if you abuse it. And TW, JE Reel, High Angle, etc all build some pretty stout shafts if you want them to.

What type of wheeling are you into? I know some of the lower-mainland guys from BC hop accross the the border to wheel every now and again. There should be a little of everything.

How stiff? F-150 coils from the eary (radius arm) trucks bolt in. I think they give about 4.5", but can be trimmed down a bit. Ford thunderbird (V6, I think) coils will give about 3.5~ of lift, and are a bit stiffer plus variable rate. V8 ZJ coils are a bit stiffer and give 1.5"~

I took it back and there was the usual 'oh, that fluid is just dirty from sitting' BS. I did get to exchange it for a good one and a 'free' (I hope, I drove off with it) flywheel in the end.

Front shafts are something I always need. I use them to make both my front and rear shafts. Neither of which seem to last a long time. However, 90% of a stock XJ is useless to me. I'll pull the motor, trans, tcase... And probably take the head from the motor and try to sell the rest of it. And try to sell the tcase (242, yeah right). All the interior is worth nothing to me. I don't even need any more doors. The front and rear axles are crap. I guess I can use the steering box, but the pump is dying anyways.... Not much worth taking in the end, it seems.

Umm? You are talking a LP axle? Explain...

Yeah, they're tough. I've run the one in my XJ through a couple scenarios that would have killed any other auto. But I got the pan off this one and had that crap running all over my bench and just said 'I'm not dealing with this'. I think my cherokee is going to get parted out instead. So I'll use the AW4 out of it. Now I'm going to have WAY more random parts than I even want to look at.

Image Not Found Yeah... I hope the junkyard doesn't f' with me over this.

Funny, with our scales the best time to go is when they're closed. The scale still works, just the DOT isn't there to write you a half million tickets.

Truck looks good. Seems to wheel good too. Out of curiosity, have you ever scaled it? And what dimesion of material did you weld to the bottom of the unibody to stiffen it? I think I might re-do mine and remove some of the problems with it...

In the aluminum NP tcases that have oil pumps, they are all driven by the rear output shaft. Leave the rear driveshaft on and your tcase will be lubed. Transmissions are a little different. So I'd normally say to leave the tcase in neutral and the tranny in gear. However, I know guy that flat towed his YJ with the tcase in a gear and the tranny in neutral. Worked fine until the time the tranny popped into gear and the tcase grenaded.

I thought the LCA pockets were in the wrong spot? One way or another they aren't straight on. Not saying it won't work. I'd probably have tried that with mine had I not removed them earlier.

Zero rate - takes no force to extend/compress them. I have two that you can push in/pull out with just your little pinky fingers.

Long as you're talking a front. You'll need the hubs too I think.

It can be a b*@$£ to get them when you're on this side of the boarder. They either take forever, or there's a big shipping/brokerage fee, or they get lost...

They will, I'd think. As long as they're for 2.5" wide springs. It's locating the hangers that's the hard part.

See here. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ht=flatbed I never really explained a lot about it, and there's a lot of things I'd do differently to do it again. If you want to chat about it, feel free to bring that old thread back to the top.

If you drive like me, you'll crush those shock extenders.

I'd builda flat deck. Or loggers box.