DirtyComanche

Buy some stainless sheet and get it rolled to a nice countour. Header wrap isn't ideal on a street/trail rig if you ask me. It will destroy anything you wrap with it in short order.

Thanks. I'll have to pop into NAPA tomorrow.

2"~.

Oh, I had a header panel. And headlights. It had an accident last trip when I got it caught on a tree. I'm a really hot driver if anybody hadn't noticed yet... Anyways, it's still ratchet strapped to the back of the truck. But I have two header panels and two hoods. So that's a decent shot at making at least one fit. I'll have to find some lights that will fit in the stock location but aren't as deep as there's not enough clearance with the rad. I might have some funky gaps going on as I'm not exactly a body man. But I gotta bend some tube before I get too horney on any praticular location of the peices. And I gotta clean up the wiring/vacuum harness.

Hehehe.... 'Cause I'm gonna need one to fix this mess. This is what I started with. Pretty much the same as the last time anybody saw it other than some bent metal and broken parts... Image Not Found I kinda lost my header panel then ran into a tree Image Not Found Out came the sawzall. Image Not Found Image Not Found Getting there.... Image Not Found Image Not Found Bunch of BS that I cut off. Image Not Found Mocking up the new fender location. Image Not Found As you see, it's gonna be dove nosed with just the stock 4oh rad. I had qualms about doing this, but WTH. It's only time, money, and effort. I'm sure I can make it work decently. There's also some other parts that are going to go in sometime soon hopefully... And maybe another sudden change.

The thing is a pile. I need to spend a weekend and track down all the problems with it. The issue is that I take it out every couple weeks and flog it to death, and it sits all the other time. And I never do ANY maintenance...

Looks like I'll have to try and find the part number and order them in. I had gone to napa and asked about them, and they were like "Umm (looks at computer), umm (looks at me), uh, go to the dealer". The dealer wanted $400~ per line.

TWICE I've had an unintended tranny flush with my DD XJ (4.0/AW4) because the quick connect lines pop out of the tranny. What gives? Are they just worn out? Or bad? Can I use something else? Perhaps because the lines aren't supported too well? It's the same one each time... This time I had to leave it because the fitting wouldn't seal when I put it back in. Either the o-ring is gone, or the fitting cracked. I've lost my patience for this.

Rich flopping Image Not Found Image Not Found Me shortly before my output shaft snapped. Image Not Found

I broke on the gatekeeper, so umm, yeah.... Anyways. Dave's first flop (note the expression) Image Not Found Image Not Found Back up Image Not Found Back over Image Not Found Curtis Image Not Found Rich Image Not Found Image Not Found

Tcase drops suck. But no, you'd need to get the shaft lenghtened even with one. Most likely. Well, it's really a 'try it and see' sort of thing. You just have to make sure you have enough yoke engagement or your day will get crappy. While you can get away without a SYE, I'd highly recommend a one if you're 'ugly' with things. The stock mainshaft leaves a bit to be desired. As in it likes to go 'pop' at inoppertune times.

As Twisty said, no side traction. They're great in the thick gooey mud as long as you have the power to get them spinning (self cleaning), and as long as you don't plan to go anywhere but straight ahead. In ALL other instances that are just horrible tires. In high traction rock like moab a guy can run them; but a BFG A/T would perform as good in that situation (and actually be round to boot). For slippery rock they'll go nowhere but sideways. Offcamber (even in dirt) they go sideways. In the snow you sink until you hit bottom (and you're done at that point). They don't like high speed either. And they're totally unstreetable. Okay, you can. But it sucks. Interco tires are rarely round. That said, a lot of guys run them and love them. And I can't rain on that.

Anything but boggers.

The early XJs are the same. I think they changed the hinges eventually.

If you can't find anything and want a 1-peice, any real glass shop can cut you one.

96 has a good ring to it. Perosnally I'd go the calipers route.

It's weird. The reason it didn't work was I knocked off one of the ballast resistor leads. It fired up and did the usual climb to about 3k, then it came down and died. I thought 'hmm, it ain't idling at all'. Then I realized what my problem was. After it got warm, it still wouldn't idle. So I disabled the EGR and then it did... So I should probably take a couple minutes and go through the manual.

You mean 241?

IIRC, s10eater's truck is dropped or stock height, and runs a 350.

Lots of weight too. I don't think I need that.

The guy I was wheeling with today didn't have one. If all you're doing is filling tires/setting beads - it doesn't matter. Personally I wouldn't care with an air drill either... I don't know what you're using it for though.

I could get a quote on one, but I think they're like 2g.

I did... What's the upgrading options? NP241? The 231C? Or just say eff it and put a new front output in the case I have?

Most of the kits are a downgrade in strength. If you really want them, a D44 front is a better choice...

I think that depends how high you mount the engine... And how far back, and what oil pan you use, and something else...