DirtyComanche

Yes, those bolts are metric. The frame side ones are often torx - which is a big hint as there is very few SAE/UN thread bolts that use that head style. I want to say there's none, but I can think of one application right now - so they may well be common somewhere. Anyways, my point is that on Jeeps the torx are always metric. Anyways, to make the bloody hole the right size I'd suggest a shock bushing sleeve. They make them for most sizes (providing you can find somebody that sells them), and with a little trial and error would allow you to shim up the hole to the right size.

How it was explained to me was that the firewall change was done either late in the 85 year or early in the 86 as it was already pretty much written in stone that the 4.0 would be replacing the 2.8. FWIW, my 86 firewall was identical to the one in my 89. Save a few holes drilled in random places.

That's what everything is like... It's the way of the future.

They make plastic paint for interior peices. If you ever watch 'Unique Whips' or whatever that stupid show is, you can see people paying thousands of dollars to have their interior peices spraypainted. I'd imagine it's a little tougher and adheres to plastic a bit better. But perhaps it is totally the same thing as what you're already using.

The rust in the middle of the doors is strangely common. They must have screwed something up at the factory.

I think it's just a standard carrier. I thought it was a rubi-con one or w/e. I don't know if the normal TJ carrier is a rubi style 'thick gearset' setup. I don't know anything about TJs. They are too expensive for me.

Do you just want it legal? Or pretty? Lawn edge trimming and pop rivets... Ya just rivet the trimming to a factory flare. It's hack. But it 'works' in that it might get ripped off but it costs little and takes little time. Another favorite is grabage cans that have been split and riveted on... Same with door mats. Oh, and big rig suppliers actually sell fender flare by the foot - which can be attached to the factory flares. It's similar to the lawn trimming but not 'quite' as hack. It's a little more flexible though.

Okay, ya got me there.

In my experience they are the cheapest SOBs you can find. It might be worth something to them, but they ain't gonna pay you.

Now theres a smart man!!! A backup to any good MJ is a Dodge Diesel!!!! My other passion!!! Theres not to many diesels that can do this!!! http://gallery.hot4x4.ca/albums/The-Tow-Rig/aad.avi http://gallery.hot4x4.ca/albums/The-Tow-Rig/aae.avi Ryan That things certainly seem to go pretty good. Any idea what type of numbers it's putting down? Mine is a 94 12V, and it's a little slow in stock trim. I'm going to look into that, but I'll probably leave it fairly stock. I have no luck with transmissions to begin with, and I bet I can make way more torque than it'll hold. I'm definatly happy with it so far! Cruises like a dream on the highway and has no lack of power at speed! We'll wait to see how the milage is though - I filled the tank and it cost $120. But I doubt it'll be much (if any) worse than my XJ when all is said and done. Now I just need to pick up a decent trailer.

Don't quote me, but Jeep Thrills sells use-able D300s for $75 bucks. A freind bought one not that long ago. Yeah, with a D300 that's just the first payment though.

Sorta... I don't know the full story on what they did. But they used a thick gearset on the rubi carriers. They are essentially the carrier ment for 3.92 and numerically lower gears (or where-ever that split is). I think the reasoning was so they all shipped with the same carrier or air locker. Basically it's a pile of garbage. You could use any D44 carrier and a thick gearset and do the same thing. But it's advantageous to simply buy the right carrier.

He'd have to cut about as much as I did... It's totally do-able if a guy is willing to mess around with it. And that's without bending any tube or anything else, just making new front inner fenders.

Apparently they shipped with two different firewalls. If I was to swap something in a 2.5L MJ it wouldn't be a 4oh. For the work I think a guy could do better.

It all depends what you want to do with it... If you want to make it nice, AVOID rust at all costs. Just because a little surface rust turns into a lot of pinholes, and rotted out fenders/bedsides once you try to clean it up. But at the same time, there's some body panels that are a PITA to straighten. For a wheeler I figure as long as there isn't any huge holes in bad places you're good.

I'm going to have to do something about how it smells so I can sell it. Or just part it out. Seems liek a stupid thing to do when it's actually in really decent shape. For anybody who cares... I bought a dodge. It makes funny noises and has glow plugs.

Bushwackers do. Everybody I know that had them broke them or tore out all the mounting points. Which is fun when they're like $499 or some BS.

That tailgate is off a CJ, no?

That stuff looks pretty good.

I wouldn't. Threads aren't ment to do that. It inevitably will lead to them wearing out. Especially if you can't grease the threads. And it sucks if the threads fail.

Truetracs kick @$$, IMHO. No, they aren't a full locker. But you won't know they're there on the street, unless you need more traction. I'd have no issue streeting a truck with them in the front and rear... In any condition. With them front and rear, you'll have far more traction than just a selectable in the rear.

No it won't, it'll make it worse... There's a hump in the inner fender at the front. And it'll rub there like mad. A guy can cut that off. But that's how things go downhill.

Which part? I drilled the spot welds for the most part, and did some sawzalling and some time with the angle grinder. And I used a BFH for quite a bit of it. And the tcase just broke... Rear tires in the air, front pulling me over an obstacle (dragging the belly) and she just went bang. It's not too suprising given the size of the output shaft, the weight of my truck, and that all the stress was on the front rotating assembly.

After a whole bunch of trying to fit a header panel, and trying to fit the fenders, I got annoyed. So, it'll be a cut down hood, and some tube. Image Not Found I finially tore down the tcase. Yeah, it's broken... Image Not Found Image Not Found Went through the rest of it, and it all looks to be fine. Image Not Found I couldn't find any decent drilled shank bolts, so I jsut bought the hood pin kit from lordco. It was only $18. Whatever. I also spent a bunch of time prepping all my attachment points for the cage. I'm not done yet, but I hate using a speed blaster inside, so I'm going to have to buy some little abrasive pads to go in the die grinder. Anyways, I just hope I get a quote back on the tube soon. Or I will go insane.

My XJ came with that. But some tool had over-tightened the screws and wrecked it.