DirtyComanche

Truetracs kick @$$, IMHO. No, they aren't a full locker. But you won't know they're there on the street, unless you need more traction. I'd have no issue streeting a truck with them in the front and rear... In any condition. With them front and rear, you'll have far more traction than just a selectable in the rear.

No it won't, it'll make it worse... There's a hump in the inner fender at the front. And it'll rub there like mad. A guy can cut that off. But that's how things go downhill.

Which part? I drilled the spot welds for the most part, and did some sawzalling and some time with the angle grinder. And I used a BFH for quite a bit of it. And the tcase just broke... Rear tires in the air, front pulling me over an obstacle (dragging the belly) and she just went bang. It's not too suprising given the size of the output shaft, the weight of my truck, and that all the stress was on the front rotating assembly.

After a whole bunch of trying to fit a header panel, and trying to fit the fenders, I got annoyed. So, it'll be a cut down hood, and some tube. Image Not Found I finially tore down the tcase. Yeah, it's broken... Image Not Found Image Not Found Went through the rest of it, and it all looks to be fine. Image Not Found I couldn't find any decent drilled shank bolts, so I jsut bought the hood pin kit from lordco. It was only $18. Whatever. I also spent a bunch of time prepping all my attachment points for the cage. I'm not done yet, but I hate using a speed blaster inside, so I'm going to have to buy some little abrasive pads to go in the die grinder. Anyways, I just hope I get a quote back on the tube soon. Or I will go insane.

My XJ came with that. But some tool had over-tightened the screws and wrecked it.

All ya gotta do is post, and somebody will figure out the details for ya... Now I just have to decide if I'm going to part out my cherokee or use junkyard parts. Hmm. I guess I could put my peugeot in the cherokee to sell it... That'd be some more worms for the can.

If the alternator works, it should run with the battery pulled after startup. However, with a totally flat battery you cannot bump-start it.

What I want to know is how much you use the horn to be able to know it wasn't working all the time...?

I left my XJ half way up a mountain in the middle of winter... 4 days of wondering if anybody had decided to turn it into a barbeque. And I left the MJ over-night once. Luckily it was definatly not a likely place to look.

Rich has front leafs. I don't know if he plans to get rid of them or not. They work fairly well with him, but that's only about 8 years of trial and error to get them like that.

Just filling the tank with water is safe enough. Generally the fumes that are present around it are not in a high enough concentration to ignite. Personally I've ground/welded around my tank (filled with gas) many times. I haven't died yet - not that it makes it smart. Anyways, I have only a couple ways of dealing with stubborn bolts using limited tools. Some people say I'm hack - and they're probably right. Typically I start with a breaker bar, then throw a cheat pipe on it. Often severly messed bolts will not move at this point, and the real trick it to put a box end wrench on them and hit the wrench with a sledge hammer - it mimics the motion of an impact, just very crudely. Also, I often take a pin punch and punch the head of the bolt before doing anything else, it can break the bolt free by shattering the rust in the threads. If all that fails, rent a torch. Or rent an air impact. Or a plasma.

If you want me to wait until the other projects are done, we'll both be old and grey...

Alrighty, I knew the front driveshaft wouldn't work, but I'd already banked on that. But now that I think about it, I bet I'll have to change the rear too - it's setup for 7/8" compression. Unless I kick my wheelbase out again. Which I won't do. My tranny mount/x-member is all custom anyways, so changing it isn't the end of the world. I think I have the cherokee to pull stuff off of, so it should be fairly easy.

Umm. Yeah. You've got me there... I need to go look and see what I need/don't need for his shifter to work again. Problem is I have about 40 projects on the go here, and I can't think.

I know there was a thread on it, but the search owned me... So, I've got a 4oh and peugeot (still kicking), but I'd rather have an AW4 after watching/doing some wheeling with XJ/YJ guys... Yes, I've debated it with myself a whole bunch, and I've decided to go this route. Tell me otherwise or w/e... Anyways, I've got an AW4 (that's a start), plus what I think is the correct input for my tcase (I hope so). And I've got the AW4 torque converter. Now, assumably I'm going to need a TCM, and the shifter setup? I also need the other TB bracket or w/e to attach the kick-down cable? Or are they the same? I've actually got my whole XJ (4.0, AW4, 242) to pull parts off of I think. I bought an AW4 from the boneyard, but I think I will take it back and use the one out of the XJ as I know it is good. I didn't do a huge checkover of the boneyard AW4 (I assumed it was totally drained, and had no tools), and when I pulled the TC off it has some nasty tranny fluid in it, but I THINK that was because it was sitting - they'd not have marked it as anything but a core if it was totally messed. Anyways, if I can find the receipt and it looks like the XJ won't sell then I'll probably steal the XJ's AW4. Oh yeah, I want to run brettM's shifter... I'm going to order one or look at the page for it again at least. :dunno:

Something like that was the plan. But he rear mounted his rad. I'm still thinking about it but I'm not sure I want too. Blah.

I think the verdict is to say f' everything in the front clip other than the hood. I'm going to run some tube... Now, I did run into a major bummer. I was hoping to just keep plugging away with the renix EFI - perhaps clean some of the sensors so it runs right. But I also wanted to tie my tube work into the flat spot above the coil towers (yes, I still have them, I plan to use them again). However, the bloody ignition coil is right there. And a bunch of the EFI junk is in the way... I kind a doubt I can move any of it?

:mad: My MJ has a perfectly prisitine floor. Not a bubble of rust, errant holes, or anything else horrible... However, my XJ has a massive hole directly in front of the driver's feet. Massive, as in my whole foot could go through it were it not for the carpet. Oh, it is also positioned so that any water/snow/slush on the road is kicked up by the tire directly into the hole... I also always leave the back seat folded down. I'm not much of a people hauler - more of a parts guy... Today I lifted the seat... And just about puked from all the mold. Ohwell. It's going bye-bye tomorrow. Unless they won't given me a decent trade in on it...

It's mighty hard to tell a stroker externally... Actually, I'd almost say it's impossible. Without ripping the head off or dropping the oil pan and checking the numbers on the crank (if you even can with it in the engine). Scary.

I've got one of those, just it was made by lincoln.

You can make the JCR setup OTK. Tell them and they'll ream the one TRE the other way. Then you jsut have to buy those flipsert things and drill out your existing holes. It's advised you weld the flipserts in...

That's over-kill. Road signs are maybe 18g and they last a while. Throw lots of sparks if you do it during the night.

Road signs work pretty darn good.

Hmm. Maybe. I think I'll try and make a MJ/XJ header work first. I don't want any more toy confusion. But then again, a slot grille would be pretty obvious too. I already have an idea hopw I'll patch the gaps. Ever heard of 100mph tape? Er, ah, actually I'm going to steal some .040 aluminum and just pop rivet it on, I think... Tomorrow I go and look at tcases. Grr.

You removed the umm, shift detent pin? From the tcase... There's two plugs on the back, top is drain, bottom is fill.