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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. The driveshaft would need to pass through that x-member. I think this build has been going on a for a while because he's hit a few brick walls. Just judging by the rust and the state of everything. If he posts up we could get things sorted out.
  2. Not quite. I've never actually seen a 1/4 elliptical that is like the one you are describing. But I have heard of it. With that setup you're combining the negatives of leaf springs with link suspnesion. Since you're still relying on a spring to locate the axle. In this setup the leafs are on a shackle at the axle (his it turned over and might need tweaking) and can move around however much they want. The links locate the axle.
  3. Actually, it turns out there is a package for summit for me. It's my intake manifold... But, I gambled and lost. The 4.0 and 258 head design was NOT the same regarding the port placement. I should have gone and bought two intake gaskets to see for myself sometime BEFORE I ordered this thing. The difference was that the 258 ports are even LOWER than the 4.0 renix ones. I couldn't have believed that possible, but they are. Now, I think I can bolt the intake up in the correct position, providing that I change a few slight things. I'd have to either cut off the alignment nubs on the head, or cut the holes for them in the intake into slots. I don't know if this will cause the manifold to not seat correctly or anything of that nature. Or perhaps it will seat, but wiggle loose at some point? The intake is drilled for the P/S brackets, so that actually wasn't a problem. But if I do move it up, it may be. However, I think I can make some room in the mounts and deal with it... Not sure. I dunno. I gotta make this work. It's too late to go back.
  4. You can break a D35 with just about anything. Locked or welded it really doesn't have a chance. And if you plan to drive it on the street, a welded rear sucks. But a welded front is worse.
  5. I need parts! GAHHHHHHHHHH. Nothing ever shows up on time. Oh, and I decided to ditch the speedometer. Who cares.
  6. For a quick rundown on propane, see this page... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... 4&start=30 I briefly explained it. I have an offenhauser intake that is ment to put a 4BBL carb on an AMC 6er. The propane mixer is a 4bbl.
  7. I've got a chevy HEI setup to go on for the disty. I don't like ford parts. And yeah, I've got all the gauges figured out AFAIK. The coolant one was throwing me off because of the other one... Apparently I live in the middle of nowhere, so I can't just order in some generic gauges and things like a nightswitch and dist drive gear. I love parts stores... The good news - I found a guy that does propane conversions and repairs that not only knows his stuff, but is nice enough to sell me rebuild kits for impco products at a great deal!
  8. Welcome. :Canadaflag:
  9. Looks like somebody got a good score. Jared, lose any skin off your face after doing that?
  10. Well, with a little farther research, the dodge D60 might be a real pile. I have a 94 CTD, so I checked to see what the specs were on it... It has 30 spline 1.31" inners. The same as a D44. And 33 spline 1.34" outers. So, the 94 axle definatly isn't very good. However, they changed to a 32 spline inner and 33 spline outer setup in 98. So, if it was a 98 plus it might be worthwhile. However, with more searching I find that the carrier break is between 3.55 and 4.10, so I can't swap the 3.55 gears onto the newer carrier. However, most likely the only change they made to them was in the side gears, which would swap. So potentially I could use it to upgrade my tow rig. But nothing else seems worthwhile. The gains for using it in MJ aren't really there. It's a D60, and yeah, it's possibly stronger than a 30 spline (outer) chevy/ford one. But it's not a huge upgrade from my chromo'd D44.
  11. Yeah... I'd hope he has a brace on the inside. If he does, it's a cool concept and execution. Actually, I might steal that idea even if he didn't do that.
  12. It should. AFAIK it's the same as the one in the front of my 3/4t diesel. Just his axle has 4.10s and mine has 3.55s. The link moutns and coil buckets aren't useful though. Too bad 4.10 is too low for my diesel anyways. And not really low enough for the MJ... Sounds like he's got a chevy 14B with 4.10s that can go with it too... The problem is, I'd still rather have cash. I have 2 axles in my garage, 2 sets of extra axleshafts for one of them, and a bare housing outside. Dunnnoooo.
  13. I ment head, I think it's that one. What type of connector style was it? I seem to have lost it in the mess. I think it was just a single rubber boot that slipped over it? No more EFI. Or wiring harness... I'm going to rebuild the wiring harness from the ground up with what I need (like, nothing...) and run propane. Gotta figure out my gauges, because I still need to know if I'm cooking the motor. Hope it all works.
  14. Actually, it's a common trick for guys who own SWB jeeps with horrid steep rear pinion angles to park facing down a steep hill to fill the rear diff.
  15. 1/4 elliptical, somebody was asking about that...
  16. Accomplished: Pretty much NADA. Ran some ideas through my head, welded up my header, mocked up the location of a few things. Put Off: Didn't bother to phone and see if my tube is in to pick up, haven't gone to the walk in clinic (I ain't dead, so I'll be okay), haven't sold the XJ, didn't swap distributors, didn't plumb my radiator, didn't talk to the propane shop, didn't weld in extra rock slider braces, didn't buy any parts other than ones I don't need, and a whole lot more.
  17. No, LP driver's side, with ball joints and unitized hubs. Some (really new) are metric bolt pattern too, methinks. And some, maybe all have a CAD too. I have a D60 under my cummins dodge.
  18. Yeah, this is a newer dodge so it is driver's drop at least. The ford one is better, but actually weaker in stock form. I'd like the HP though. Hate LP axles after putting in my waggy D44 front. I might have to take it and use it as a barter tool later though.
  19. Yes. And don't worry about getting the pre-load bang on. You can't always. A bit too tight is better than too loose.
  20. I dunno... I just got offered a dodge front D60 in trade for my XJ. And maybe I can talk him into a chevy 14B rear to go with it... The thing is, it's tempting... But, I don't exactly have plans to go to 1-tons yet. And a dodge D60 wouldn't be my first choice. And I want to sell my XJ for cash so I can buy a MIG. Yeah, I want a MIG. It's jsut easier. I think I'm spoiled though. Hmm...
  21. I take it is that stubby stud like thing beside the ground strap at the back of the block?
  22. I fill mine above the top fill hole. But I fill it on the bench out of the truck. And you can use whatever ATF you want in a 231. They don't care. Although, I do personally like the Dex/merc stuff.
  23. That's awesome. The actual header looks about as bad as mine.
  24. This is an update to tell you I suck. I welded my exhaust back up. It looks like crap. One thing I hate about stick welding is I really lose my touch after I don't do it for a while. Ohwell, it just has to hold. No, I didn't take a picture because it looks so bad. Then I tackled my distributor problem.... Image Not Found Theoretically that HEI unit out of a chevy will fit. However, it has the wrong gear on it (knew that). I pulled the gear off the stocker to put it on that one, and guess what? Not the same sized shaft. Whatever, I know a later AMC V8 gear will work. It's on its way. I also must have wrecked that disty since I pulled it. It no longer spins correctly. So I'll try cleaning it up, but might have to go back to the junkyard.
  25. I like grey. Is that a crime? But I like black in a vehicle that's more showey.. I don't really like the blue (that was) in my MJ. Is it dark blue or light blue? My 86 had a lighter blue interior than it. So I'd assume it's dark?
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