DirtyComanche

That looks like an ugly job to me.

Whatever type of fiberglass resin they used, it remians quite flexible, and seems to be very tough. Honestly, I'd be most worried with abrasion resistance than anything else. Spring steel is very good for that, and composits notoriously aren't. Somebody buy a set and flog the $#!& out of them.

While I haven't ever mounted said size tire on said size rim, I'd bet they'd work. You'll be more likely to lose beads though.

Actually, I think there is a kit to do it with a D44. It can cause a lot more problems than it is worth. If you were to do it, it is advised you design almost the entire front end around that concept...

Well, the accuracy of the factory gauges might be in question. But they work well enough, it's not like I look at them anyways.

It's pretty convoluted. But I think I've got it figured. I'm so god damn cheap. I can re-use the stock gauges without the cluster now. I know, who wants stock gauges? Well, they're cheap...

Oh, and the connects for the factory tach are labelled in japanese. Luckily I can read that... Sorta.

That was sorta a given. With cross-over you won't run into the problems I had (inverted T high-steer). I Had the drag link binding on the tie-rod. Then hitting the leaf spring. It was really sweet. My steering is hack. It's on my 'list'.

It depends on the terrain to be wheeled, the tcase gears, tranny gears, and the power level of the motor. 4.56s and 37s works for me. You just get to smell my clutch sometimes.

Looks like the axle location is about right... The steering going to clear everything? I want to move mine out a little more once I change up my front end again.

Anybody ever really spend a lot of time looking at the wiring diagrams in the FSMs? Ever get the feeling that you're either retarded, or there's a lot of mis-prints in the diagrams? :nuts: :headpop:

I dunno, I'd totally rock that thing. Just think of all the chicks you could pick up.

How old is that thing anyways? Is there more than one? I've seen many pictures of it :dunno:

It's more like 5". The WT rear axles aren't exactly 'wide'. It'll probably look goofy.

This project hit a stand still because I am to retarded to ever remember to go buy parts. Hmm, 2 weeks, better have it done...

A ford HPD44 is oh, 67" WMS. About. A wide track waggy is only 64" front and 62" rear. So you might have width issues. Anyways, apparently that thing just welds on there and solves everything. I'm not a fan personally, but if you're looking to keep the jeep style coil suspension, WTH.

It's relatively cheap. Depending. How he did it is where it might differ from me. If he bought the axles, he'll have about $6000-8000 in them. If he built the axles himself, he'll have maybe $4000 tied up in them. If he's like me, he'll have $2000. If he's like my buddy Curtis, he'll have a 40 of rye and a couple hours of time in them. To build all the leaf spring crap is only about $100 in steel. To buy the springs would be near free (those aren't lift springs, see how flat they are and how far the shackles are dropped). Those tires are what, $1600 for a set? Less if you know people. I don't see beadlocks, so he's probably got $100 in rims. He'll have a few hundred in driveshafts. As to of what he has in the motor/tranny/tcase, who knows. Depends what he's running and how he built it. A good running 350 can be had for $500, plus whatever performance parts he wants. A TH-350 can be had for free, but $100 is reasonable. And a NP205 goes from somewhere between $50 and $200. Then there's all the little costs for the motor mounts and tranny mount and blah blah, totalling $500. Somebody want to add that up? I don't. Anyways, mud trucks are cheap in many ways. That calculated cost would be without 'lucky breaks' like a buddy trying to throw out a 14B FF with 4.56s, or some farmer selling a D60 for $100.

When you undercoat it, are you just going to spray over whatever is already down there, or clean it up majorly first? Sorta thinking about doing my dodge, and bedlining it.

That chevelle is one of my dream cars. Luckily for the other chevelle enthusiasts, I will never buy one. No sense me destroying something that beautiful.

Maybe I see it wrong, but... The liquid was already below freezing. Possibly by several degrees. However, it did not freeze because water, unlike almost all other substances, expands when it freezes. If it were to expand, the pressure would rise and effectively force it back into a liquid state (compressing ice = water). When the pressure is released (open the cap) it allows it to quickly turn to a solid state as there is no pressure forcing it back into a liquid. It's an equilibirum reaction, until the cap is pulled.

A lot of guys put the reserve at the same price as the buy it now. Wait until the auction is about to end, bid what you can spend. If you fall short of his reserve he might still decided to sell it for what you bid.

I'd do it. It has some great factory parts (4.0, AW4, A/C, etc) and appears to be solid.

i hear that a lot about rams Perhaps. If it happens my 6BT and associated parts will go into something else... I know somebody that has a 57 chevy that's longing for a cummins. It'd make a badass tow rig.

The pirate thread got interesting. Somebody claiming to have driven the pile stopped by to post!

No, I actually didn't cut the crossmember out completely. It's still in there, just plated and covered so you can't see it. Try to make sure the frame is aligned decently straight when you weld your new one in.