DirtyComanche

It says that one 30-40 trucks were made in 86 with the 2.5L... In which case, I ruined a rare truck. And it says the TF 904 was only used with the 2.8L. It came behind the 2.5L too. It was a POS in either case. The article could use some work.

That's how you build the axle, but no electric motor would give enough force to push the knuckles to steer. You need hydraulic force. A single ram on the tie-rod works. Wait, I see what you mean. Use the motor to turn the steering box. Would be interesting but highly complicated. I'd be better off buying an orbital valve than doing that.

I looked at a quadra-steer truck quickly a couple times. It looekd like a compromised setup to me, after all it was built for a street-driven truck. They used a double ended ram, IIRC. I don't have money like that. You'd think that hose explansion would be minimal. It is quite a distance. But, hydraulic hose is tough stuff. Especially if it's rated for 4000psi and my pump tops out at about 1400psi. One way or another I doubt it would be an issue as I do not forsee using it at any speed. The truck drives WEIRD enough as it is. Probably something to do with zero caster and leaf springs. A lock-out would be a novel concept. But I know I'd just leave it unlocked anyways. If I crab walk it at 100, I'll just have to put some faith in the exo cage.

AFAIK, the t-stat located temp sensor is for the gauge, same as the one in the head on a renix motor. There should be another sensor in the block for the EFI. But I don't know much about the HO motors.

Outta the blue on this one... But I was looking at a total pile of a suzuki that has rear steer. And I started to think. Which is bad. Normally I'd go read pirate until I get bored with the concept, but instead I posted here. So, can you get a simple hydraulic valve that would allow you to cycle an actuator in and out, yet offer some sort of automatic return to centre? Do you think P/S pump output would be able to drive a second ram? I don't see any reason why not, since I would only use rear steer when I'm moving slow, and fast steering isn't a huge deal. And it drives the ram I have without any hiccups what-so-ever. Comments? Maybe I should go read pirate until I realize this is immensly complicated and lose interest.

Hmm, I got quoted about $600 for one from the stealer. And I was pissed! Well, guess I have no right to be mad.

A big enough wrench, and the tranny in neutral, works.

Don't think I didn't try that. I've done gears before. Somebody left this third out in the rain and she just plain didn't want to do anything for me. I used an 8lb sledge and wound up mushrooming the old pinion so it was about 50% wider than it used to be. That was doing over-head blows.

Not as per the manual. However, it does say to do it that way for a YJ, IIRC. What the manual says is to throw the shifter into 4lo. Undo the linkage adjuster (there's a bolt on the linkage beside the tcase). Then shift the case into 4lo if it isn't - just yard on the linkage, you'll know when it's in. Maybe. Then you put a 1/8" or so spacer between the tcase shift handle and the bracket it is in, so that the handle is 1/8" from the rear stop when in the 4lo position. Then tighten up the adjuster nut. Then remove the spacer and verify it shifts right.

??. Did he mean "pull the axle" out as in prep to change the ring/pinion, or "pull the axle" as in swap the rear end? He said 'drop' which to me means taking the entire assembly off the truck. It gets vauge once I start using the same term for multiple things. Anyways, in summation, do gears with axle not in truck. Unless you hate yourself.

You don't need to pull the axle. But unless you have a lift, you're going to hate life for not doing it. Getting another axle to set-up is the best bet.

I don't think so... All evidence that I ever saw that was 'official' was that they changed at a very specific time. One day they were putting the BA10/5s in and the next AX-15s.

Regarding gear setups: I wouldn't call it horrible. I did a toyota one last weekend. Okay, it was a big PITA and consumed a lot of time. Had the diff been bare it would have been way easier since most of the time was wasted trying to get the old pinion out without a press... Anyways, the only trick to a gear setup is buying extra bearings or pulling off the old ones to make setup bearings. Then having the time to play with it. You can get a good guess for the first pinion depth, then quickly determine if it is right or wrong. You do need special tools though. A couple bearing pullers, a dial indicator for gear lash and a base for it, a couple brass drifts and bearing drivers, and a torque wrench or 2.

I have to agree. I never understood the 'I can't use 5th gear' guys. When I DD'd my MJ, I used it all the time. That's where the engine LIKES to run.

Yes, it refers to the peugeot BA10/5

Dana axles are easy. Normally there's a tag on the cover, it's say something random but have clearly a 3 55, 3 07, 4 10, or something on it. If the tag cover is missing, or you aren't sure, pull the cover off. On the ring gear there will be two numbers stamped 41:10 or 41 10, or something, dividing them will give the gear ratio (in that case, 4.10). And occasionally they will even say somehting like '3.55' on them.

Yeah, they plug in and work. They'll even flow more fuel. But, there won't be any 'real' gains. Apparently they have a slightly better spray pattern which might give you a tiny bit of power and milage increase. However, the stock injectors already flow enough fuel. This isn't a turbo-diesel where you get more power by just throwing more fuel at it. If you're to do a few other mods (TB, intake, exhaust, port head, etc) then the HO injectors would probably be a good idea. Or even some larger stang injectors.

I like that bed cover.

I agree. The dakota needs to go.

AFAIK those are 297X shafts. However, you have to measure them to be sure.

I can't shift fast enough. Often you just need wheelspeed, but you need the acceleration of a lower gear. And you don't have enough time to pull off a shift before losing momentum. And power shifting is hard on components. I'm going to get another head if I start playing with it.

Yeah, I've used a plasma a couple times. They're too pricey for me. I'd love to have one, but I have enough debt.

A guy can do some decent work with them if he's good. More fun than cutting out brackets with a sawzall.

I wish I had a cutting torch... And a larger shop.

Maybe. I think I want to try to get more revs out of mine. In first low the valves float really soon.