DirtyComanche

Where ya live? 91s and 92s are hard to get. Truth be told, if it is in good shape, $4100 is probably not bad if you brow beat him down to about $3800. I know, all the guys south of the border will be freaking out. They'll have to deal with it. Vehicles for the most part retain their value better here, and cost more to begin with. I bought my pile of a 89 at $1600 and figured I did pretty good. And anything with 4wd up here is automatically worth a bunch more - because we actually need it. Unless of course we're talking about my cherokee. Which I managed to sell for $900. Whoop-dee-@#$%ing-doo.

The bed is an easy removal. 8 bolts or something. But you'll need to put a couple peices of HSS (square tube) accross where the front mounts to hold up the gas tank. The fill neck will stay put decently on it's own, or you can stick it down however you like.

Yes, they seem to think that $150 in brokerage fees on a shipmet worth $100 is about right. And for your convenience they make you wait for about a week or two while they broker it. I won't buy anything that is shipped by them anymore.

There is a fuse, but not specifically for them. It normally ins't the problem, those lights just seem to suck for some reason. Mine worked every now and again.

At 4.5" you could get away without trimming if you used slightly longer bumpstops. I'd trim it.

Nice bumper sticker. That's one of the better looking over-built bush bumpers I've seen.

I had something shipped from the deep south all the way to BC. It was hilarious where they actually sent it. It wound up going up the east coast. Finially it crossed the border into Ontario after about 2.5 weeks, then finially got shipped accross Canada to me. Total time was about 6 weeks after all the customs BS got cleared up. Wasn't the most efficent system.

They take a funky cylindrical bulb. You should be able to get the P/N for them looked up in any auto parts store. If not, I can track down the P/N for you, it says in the manual.

Mustang 5.0s.

IMHO, cam failures are almost always to do with improper break in or install. Crane has been making cams for a long time, and I've not heard of rampant failures with their other cams. But, if a guy hates crane, there's other cams out there. And the right cam is always worth it in the power department. And your older t-case won't bolt to a newer AX-15. Well, it might. But normally the input gear needs to be swapped because it'll have the wrong number of splines.

Yeha, you'll need to buy/make brackets for upper/lower control arms, track bar, and the coils/shocks. People make them specifically for jeeps, but all want antidisestablishmentarianism too much. Ballisticfab, BTF, and a few other places like that sell brackets for misc. purposes and can be peiced together to make what you need. Or, you can convert to leaf springs. :nuts:

Yes, it seems to be intentional. I've seen lots of things to 'fix' it, none of which work.

On the Waggy D44s? They're disk front (chevy calipers) and drum rear. You'll need to swap your master cylinder in order to get proper braking, the pistions and cylinders are too big for the stock M/C.

Grand wag axles are about the same width. The front is slightly wider than a MJ axle, the rear is slightly narrower. Kidna funky, but that's how they are. $200 is a good deal if it's all in alright shape.

I know a guy who'd build them entirely out of aluminum. Well, I don't know him, but he's a friend of a friend. http://www.aqualu.com/aqualu%20industries%20inc_012.htm But that'd be if there was enough demand. Which there isn't. But he built a box for a FJ-45 (I guess, the pickup) for another guy I know, but it wasn't exactly the same dealio as a MJ box. He does excellent work if you want to make a resto-mod early jeep or land cruiser. And his comp bodies are awesome too. Okay, enough of the plugging.

The plastic bottle and cap do just fine if they are in servicable condition. Typically they aren't though.

I'm just going to leave it for the time being. Until the local boneyard gets in what I need. I need to change my M/C too, so I might do some reading into that.

Bah, I'd need to find a 96 XJ in the junkyard for the spacer. Not likely to happen.

So, uh, which booster do I use? Do I need anything else? Mine is fuct. I want to just buy a new one.

Regardless of rated power, all the 4.2L carbs and emissions systems are in such horrid shape, at this point, that there's no way it'll make rated power.

Sure. But why? The 4.0 is a better motor.

Help! makes the part. It's just not one that is stocked normally, but can be ordered. I think. Or just buy the dealer part. You think $20 is bad. I payed more like $40 for it. Then get some gunk engine cleaner and spray the $#!& out of that thing.

Are the springs broken in?

$100 for a D44 minus brakes? What's it out of? What gear ratio? If it's a MJ/XJ one I'd say it's an alright deal. But, if you buy brakes for it all new, you're going to drop some cash. And if the gear ratio is undesirable (3.07, 3.55), you'll probably be out money there. And if it's a high milage unit and has a track-lok, it's probably in need of a rebuild. So, maybe.

That pinion flange is no biggy in that yeah, a standard D44 yoke will go right on (I recommend a u-bolt yoke if you go this route), or you can use the stock Dana/Spicer part to put a 1310 joint on that flange. It's even avaliable from a rodeo (perhaps even the same rodeo that has a D44, but the ones with 12Bs definatly have it).