DirtyComanche

So, I did a toyota gear set... Which was the biggest PITA I've seen in a long time. Pattern was good, backlash was good... Just needed to swap out the setup bearings for the real ones. Took it apart, popped off the setup bearings. Put the pinion in the freezer and the new bearings in the oven. They jsut dropped right on. Sweet. Re-set backlash. Run a pattern to be sure. It looked like this: Image Not Found Image Not Found Sweet. Apparently crappy SKF bearings aren't even close to timkens. Now it get's to come back apart.

It doesn't matter what the CPS does at temperature if it doesn't work cold. Pull the plug, put the ol' analog ohm meter on it and see how bad it is. All mine did the infinitive ohm thing when failed. If it's within the hot spec when cold, it SHOULD work. Then put it on the Mv setting and bump the starter over by jumping the ignition relay. See if it makes a signal. Failing that, maybe look at a few other things... How wet is wet?

Somewhat. If it tears through the sheetmetal you're in just as bad of shape. But the sheetmetal is less likely to get crushed in like that with an interior cage. My cage is already welded to the roof though. Somewhat decreasing the risk of that.

There's an event that runs ever year out here, it was last weekend. I was on invite as a spotter. One of the yota guys rolled on the first night... Aftermath: Image Not Found As you can see, his cage design is in many ways like mine. At least on the roof there. What happened was he rolled onto a log which went between the bars and crushed in the roof. He wasn't wearing a 5-point, and if he was he most likely would have taken it in the head. As it was he got really lucky and got off with some brusing. Popped the roof back up and wheeled it the next day. Anyways, I'm going to add some more tube to mine.

You can make it work rather easily. In one form or another. But yeah, the stock output shaft is a waste of time. They go snappy snappy when you use the skinny skinny.

I always ran without. I found the handling in all situations to be acceptable. I could have made it roll, but I don't drive like that. What was scary was when the UCA bushings exploded.

D44 axleshafts are 30 spline.

I don't have an accent! It's everyone else!

The Canadian dollar matched the US this morning... Fell to a close at 99.96 or something. So, no more jokes about our dollar. And I think maybe I should order some parts while they're comparatively cheap.

What's it out of? CJ ones are crap. Unless toy want to change the axleshafts right away. The MJ/SJ ones are decent. The ring/pinion is strong. The stock carrier is alright. The stock axleshafts are pretty good too (D44 sized). But the axle tubes are weak and need to be trussed for hard use. At least weld them to the housing (like on an 8.8 ). There's a decent aftermarket for them too.

My experience is such that anybody who worked for a jeep dealership knows less about jeeps than anybody else. He might mean it's the last year of it being an AMC jeep. In which case I'll give him that. Even if guys like to debate the 87/88 thing.

It doesn't do much either way. Disconnected it is closed, allowing the normal cold air in. IIRC. I thgrew it out WAY back.

I can tell you with reasonable certainty that your tires will always slip enough to take up the difference in wheel speed while moving at a decent pace. To think that your tires always have 100% traction on the road surface is simply wrong. They always slip a little, and the side walls flex to make up for slight inconsistancies in drivetran speed. Not to mention that you do not make sudden changes in relative wheel speed while travelling fast - it simply isn't possible. If you've driven anything with a spooled axle at high speed and really thought about exactly what is going on - you'd understand. And on a related note, the stress is highest is actually when you're going slow and making tight turns. My NP231 logged far more time on the street in 4hi than you'd think. Sure, a fair amount of it was in low traction (slow, ice), but almost always the case was left in 4wd for the entire duration of the winter. Both I did that and the PO (original owner). Once it gets cold enough the roads clear up again and you again have a high traction situation. Why didn't it break? Simple. There's not enough torque load on it from the marginal amount of binding it sees on the street to actually produce a failure. Cases that have failed on the street are most likely already damaged. Bad bearings, stress cracks in the housing, worn chains, etc will often rear their head while seeing the cyclic stresses of being in 4wd on a higher traction medium. But, I'll not disagree that street use will prematurely wear out a tcase. And Jeepco... Extra weight is ALWAYS extra stress. If it causes you to lose traction more than otherwise, the actual torque loading on the parts is still MUCH higher than had it not been in that situation. I know of many other part time tcases that get left in 4hi for the winter. Clear roads or not.

So, if you blow up your tcase on pavement, then why doesn't it explode on the high-traction rock of moab?

I love previous owners that are awesome mechanics! And I thought I'd seem and done some hack things. The MJs looking great. Good luck with the inspection.

He was flat towing a YJ with the tcase in 4wd and the tranny in neutral. I have no idea why he felt that was the best way to flat tow it... Anyways, it somehow got into gear and carnaged the tcase entirely. It is possible that the tranny locked up due to lubrication issues. I don't recall if he threw out the tranny after that or if it was fuct too (he threw out the entire drivetrain within short order, a 2.5L doesn't do much for a guy who loves speed).

I've seen that before! But it was different. Involved flat towing and a slight going into gear issue... I'm not sure. But look for bearings that have seized once you get the remains out.

You did a compression check? Does it fire on all cylinders? Pull the plugs and see if they're wet. If it doesn't, that can cause problems. I've seen engines with the oil level creep up due to blow-by. Not as bad though. Anyways, the PCV system is supposed to burn off all that crap, but that never really happens. Not that it would account for that much. FWIW, despite gas being really useless for the oil, I bet the motor will be okay for quite a while. These things seem to be tough enough...

Blowby past the rings.

That zinc chromate primer is good stuff.

Sure.

Tach is fuct. Since my propane tank failed tech, I got PO'd and bought something new... A 33lb forklift tank... Aluminum. It probably doesn't have enough range for me, but I can get a second one for in the dodge. It's crazy light for a propane tank. And I got a new mixer. But I tore the base plate to mixer gasket while swapping them. :headpop: And I went to the parts store and they were being TOOLS and wouldn't even talk to me. :headpop: I figure if I can't be helped in under 10 minutes for a simple gasket there is no hope.

Dunno if this comes out cheaper...? http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/pro ... t=0&page=1

Uh, probably. Those are the POS quick connects they use for the tranny cooler lines. Which happened to be a major deciding factor in selling my XJ...

Image Not Found Yup.