DirtyComanche

Not quite. I could whip up radius arms really easily. They're god damn simple. Unfortunatly the people I wheel with would probably laugh at me.

ANybody have a bunch of pics/info on the 3-link fronts? I can't fingure out how to fit one on mine. (maybe I'm not trying hard enough?)

You'd be suprised... They're LONG, and it makes them work. Image Not Found That's not flexed right out... I can pull a couple more inches out of them. Ohyeah... XJ spring perches are 43.5" centre-centre, MJ are 42".

Dual triangulated... The space is there. Rear panhards suck balls anyways, unless you have rear steer. Even then they aren't great.

I've modelled a rear 4-link... I don't know how it'll be just yet. I've hammered out a design for the crossmember and brackets on that side, a rough idea on the brackets for the axle, a firm idea for my upper coil mounts, and a decent idea on the actual arms design (just plain tube is too boring). I'm going to use RE larges at the frame side and Currie JJs at the axle end for adjustability. Maybe, I get quoted tomorrow. The numbers I came up with are: Link length: Upper:39.1 Lower:37.1 Which is funky. Normally you do it the other way, but that doesn't fit too well. Anti-Squat 131.02% RC Slope 0.0320 in / in RC Height 27.093 in RC Angle 1.8349 degrees It's a little whack as I don't have the CG correct (I know that for sure). I can get the AS down to about 125% with a single adjustment, but I think I'll set my mid-point for it at 131%. I could drop the lowers some more at the frame end and get it down to about 100%, but I don't like where they'll mount then - unless I make them way longer. In which case I think they'll get bent. I dunno. Figure it'll work okay... Maybe. Haven't a clue actually.

Dealer CPS is over $100 here. Aftermarket is about $50. It's really sweet. Of course, I have a perferctly functioning CPS attached to my bell-housing. And it doesn't do anything :nuts: Too bad I bought a new one when I did.

Dexon/Mercon III as per the manual. The tcases don't care though, incase anybody wonders.

Did you take any measurements of the aerostar ones? I could get them pretty easy. There's one down the street. Wonder how easy they are to take off... ;)

I actually looked at mine a bunch more, and I'm not so worried. Those toy cabs are crap anyways, and my top triangle runs over my head a lot better than that. I'm still going to put a couple tie-in plates between the cab top and cage.

Sell the XJ springs. Best thing to do with them. It's hard to say on height. When you go SOA a whole whack of things will affect the final height. Rear axle tube diameter, spring perche style (height), if you use 2wd or 4wd springs, etc will all affect it. I doubled the mains on my rear packs (gives them a good feel) and got about 7.5" of lift when I went SOA. That was with an exploder 8.8 and some slightly taller perches (about 1" off the tube). I think I was also running doubled over-loads. I want to say you'd get about 7". I'd try it without the shackles first, and if you don't like the stance, add them. Or add a second main to the packs - it's a good mod because the stock springs are a little too soft.

SOA the stock MJ rears for about 5-6" of lift (depending how you do it).

Apparently my rears are 150lbs/in. I think the calculator is flawed. Let's go with 160.

800kg rear, 1100kg front... Or 4180lbs total. That was with me in it and gear, a full interior and the old front end and no exo. That's close enough. So, 1760lbs on the rear axle. 880lbs per coil. What else do I need to know? My current spring-rate I guess. Blah.

Guess I should have said "jack up". :nuts: Hopefully nobody was permanently scarred.

True, but I need something in the right range before I even look at the rate. I already know a stock TJ is too short. I was hoping people would throw out ideas of coils I could nab from the boneyard to start trying things... I know, I should just calculate my leafs' rate and measure the difference between loaded and unloaded to determine the weight on my rear axle... But yeah. Sounds like a lot of work right now. I wonder how you figure out when your leaf springs have hit the zero load point anyways? If I jack off the frame they'll unload, but the unsprung weight makes it impossible to tell when... Durr... Haven't a clue right now. Maybe I should scale it again. Or maybe it was 800kg in the rear last time. I've lost myself :dunce:

I've got 12-13" of free space for the coil at intended ride height... But it has to hold the weight of the truck... I'm thinking a TJ rear is 12" free. So, maybe a TJ 3" lift coil? How long is a stock XJ/MJ front coil? (Gave mine away...)

That's different! Normally they get more picky on the emissions on things like that.

There's a schreder fitting on the fuel rail towards the front of the engine. It's pretty standard, in most gauges for that crap will pop right on.

Build the 60... Run SRW hubs and cut down the long side about 5" to match the 14B. Shave both of them. You can turn down the ring gear about .188 without losing much strength and combine it with a nice hack off the bottom on both the axles. Clearance would be comparable to a stock D44. Then run whatever size tire makes you happy. Then it's over-kill and the only failures you will have are maintenance items (ie, do your work and they won't happen). No turd polishing here.

Why? It's an expensive turd.

See how bad it is. If there's no rust, don't put any por-15 on it. Even if there is some, I'd suggest cleaning it off mechanically, priming it with a rust primer, and putting a couple coats of decent paint on it...

Take whatever you throw at them for about 12 seconds.

No, it's screwed. On the 4cyl setting it seems to be the same, and on the 8 it reads rather low. So, unless I take it apart, I have no options. I even tried hitting it with a hammer.

Close enough. All the engine and driveline stuff is going to be almost identical. You'd have to ask Eagle for the specifics between the years (I dun know nuttin'). But the differences between an XJ and MJ are more cosmetic and structeral than mechanical.

IAC, yup. It's on the throttle body - has a 3 wire plug. Two torx to take it out. Search on here for the FSMs, I think there's a link in some thread somewhere... Personally I have a hard copy, and they're well worth it.