DirtyComanche

Dive shop, paintball/airsoft place, welding supply. Welding supply would probably be cheapest/easiest.

Contrary to WARN's instructions, I would not advise installing their hubs without the outer snap rings. Image Not Found That's what my noise was. I took a poseur shot on the driveway... Mostly becuase I was playing around with it. Image Not Found

That might be a PITA. However, a guy can build his own A-Arms. This FJ has IFS: Image Not Found And it didn't come off another vehicle! Well, sorta, gamma goat centre section (magnesium, ooooo) and some D60 parts, but it's pretty much custom. It could be built, but is it worth it?

Works like a charm! So, I'm on the bad list... Since there's no method of removal, I'll just write that forum off.

Yes, but there's not many good options. Most stuff offered from the factory is either not up to the task, not easily adaptable to anything else, or just plain stupid. The AMC eagle stuff is interesting because it's a D30 centre section with unit bearing outers, much like a solid D30. At least, that's AFAIK. It would be interesting... But those SCCA trucks raced with a solid front, so I'm sure it's possible.

A 4BT would be an amusing engine, but not in any street truck. It would be like my dodge (6BT) but in a smaller package. It drive pretty good, but nothing like what I'd want to build in a MJ. For a utility truck, a 4BT would be a great choice. And the wankels... Not for me.

I cut out my front inner fenders and re-formed them. Image Not Found Things went downhill in a hurry after that.

The tapping noise after it shuts off is often the header contracting, you'll hear it when you start it up too. That's why they crack... Your's probably is, not that it's a huge issue. Injectors can get plugged. You can clean them.

I wanted to, but I don't have another email that they'll accept to register. I already know that it doesn't work from other computers and using other browsers, I tried at school too.

I've noticed that there's a couple sites that seem to be begging for money and quite possibly mis-managing what they have.

Saw it in the rag. Bling parts. It's an option if I kept the leafs.

I'm not sure what to make of it... I used to post there, quite some time back. I think I probably had 1400 posts at the time I left. Okay, quite honestly I was pretty certain they finially banned me for good at that point. Apparently I used the 'I' word a bit too much. But, I looking back there because they have a street sub-forum. Oddly enough, I can browse the site just fine and dandy not logged in. And I can log in. But once I do the load times go massive and I get server busy messages constantly. Yet, it'll work fine if I'm not logged in... So, is this their method of keeping me out without out-right banning me?

You'll be up to speed in no time. It's still a small community.

I measured my front, axle tube to frame rail... 17". That means about 9-10 of lift? I'm going to need some coils that come out to 8" lift for my front at some point here... Who said designing a front 3-link is hard?

I'll admit it, I have a myspace. But it's not going up here since there's a picture of me in a stipper suit on it. Although, if any of you guys are sick enough, you could find it.

I wouldn't drive it in the winter... I have a CTD to be my actual DD/winter driver. If I get a MJ to make into a street truck, I'd want it to be nice. The winters here quickly reduce vehicles to NOT being nice. So it'd just be a 6 month of the year thing, or something...

So the ZJ one does fit? I'd have tried one before buying anything aftermarket. No tube bumper, would probably just make a roll pan out of aluminum. Not technically legal, but w/e. As long as it looked alright. Thanks for the warning on the glass hood's weight.

I've heard that before. But I don't think I'd ditch the inner bed, I'd want it still to be functional, at least reasonably. Power plant options aren't totally though out. Buick 3.8 turbo, the more modern EFI 3.8 (like jeepco's), or a 4.3L vortec perhaps. Also on the potential list includes a LT1, or a regular SBC. Both the V8s present other problems. But, it's all hypothetical so it doesn't really matter... Couldn't tell you for sure on the tranny either.

Lower =/= smaller tires. Not really at least. The stockers rocked 215/75R15s and 225s. I could fit those with a dropped truck with the suspension that I'm talking about. I can go to a reasonably wide tire too. It's not as big of a deal as an off-road truck where the tire moves all over the forking place as the suspension travels. At least, from what I've seen other jeeps with similar drops running. OD ratio would be somewhere in the name of .71 - .78. Not a huge difference. I only cruise at about 130-140 hm/k, the limit legally is 110. TNT would go about 10% lower in the gear ratio than me, but that's not a huge difference again. Like I said, I'd be in the rounds of 2400 in OD there. And FWIW right now I'd not be running a AMC I6 engine - they can't rev and that bothers me.

Very pricey though. But on a AWD rig there'd be decent gains from doing both. Although, maybe not? 6061-T3 tubing isn't that expensive, it's just if the ends are? I'd run the slip yoke in the rear since the NP242 sees no strength gain to a SYE, which makes for a cheaper/simpler driveshaft. However, the front would need a slip. It also comes down to te power output nunbers, because that would dictate my driveshaft size... It might be an idea for me to call tom woods/JE Reel/1-ton CV and see if they do aluminum and for how much?

The early WJ brakes would warp the rotors. They would however fit in a 15" rim. I'd probably run 16" rims at least anyways.

How are you doing that? The design (factory "z") requires it to have a pivot point to work. I tried to adjust it to not have to be in that support, but the bracket just "tweaks" under movement and won't allow enough lateral movement to move the lever on the actual TC itself... Haven't a clue how mine actually works, now that I think about it. But I did tweak the bracket to make it work a little better...

I guess I could save a few pounds and maybe my back with some aftermarket seats. The stockers feel like they're 50lbs each...

I doubt I'll wreck it. The stock one on my other D44 is hammered in pretty good, but it's not touching the ring gear.

I think they were going to slow. Or at least I know my spotter would be telling me that.