DirtyComanche

The YJ that runs it is stable to about 100 in the dunes... But, yeah, it might not be the best. If I don't like it, I'll pull an upper and build a panhard. Maybe. I'm still not sure. And I'm going to jsut have to play with this one to make it clear. Bent links are a possibility, as much as I don't liek the concept. The reality is I'm flat out of time before winter though. So, I'll be working on it again in April.

It has been found they won't. The why is a little more complicated. The simple answer is it wasn't designed for it. I think the rods like to crap out.

I don't think it's worth it. The motor can only handle 5-6psi of boost with any sort of reliability. Unless you start upgrading the internals. Which are not production items and would have to be one-offed. Taking some major cashola. Also, there's mad clearance issues unless you put the turbo on the passenger side (as is done on the turbo kits for the YJ/TJ), which means you need a longer charge pipe and you'll see more lag. Although, with a small turbo only capable of 4-5psi you'd probably not have an issue. Another major issue is keeping it cooled. Where would the inter-cooler go? In front of the rad perhaps, it'd not be very big and would have some funky pipe routing. And I'm not sure how well the cooling system would work otherwise, maybe a custom (or if there is a shelf) 3-core aluminum rad would get the job done.

I've spent a lot of time looking into 4.0L performance options. And engine swap options for these vehicles. Rebuilding a 4.0L to stock (or close) specs is probably not an option I'd bother with. I consider the 4.0 to be a decent engine, but it is somewhat lack-luster in the performance area. But, if you're one of those easy-riders who feels that 175HP is enough to keep life interesting, then it would be the cost effective way. Almost! A good boneyard motor would be far cheaper and probably last just as long. Other than you have to swap it into your MJ. Which means the new rad, rad support, tranny, tcase parts, mounts all around, wiring, etc... I'd assume you know at least as much as me about this. So, at that point I think you've got a pretty expensive 4.0L. Not necessarily for the motor itself, but for everything to go with it. Strokers are a good option if your truck is already setup with a 4.0 and you don't mind sourcing parts. At least, the budget ones are a good option. Power output can be upwards of the 250HP range, depending what you do. Excessively expensive engines can produce upwards of 300. For a budget one you have to factor in you'll probably need a 258 crank and rods, plus over-sized pistions, a new cam, bearings, oil pump, piston rings, etc. Plus you'll not want to run a renix head on a stroker, even if you are to run the renix EFI. Again, it starts to get expensive in a hurry unless you have access to a lot of parts. Plus the costs of getting it into your engine bay. Oh, stroker fuel milage typically doesn't suffer over a 4.0, it's not a huge increase in displacement and while cruising you'll burn hardly any more fuel. But if you drive it like you stole it, okay, yeah, fuel will be burned. AMC I6s (actually all inline engines) have mad harmonic problems. They won't survive being revved. Also, the performance cams really like to go flat (non-rollerized engines, yay). And they're heavy clunkers. I'm not really a fan. Personally, from what I've seen, there's FAR better candidates for swapping into a MJ/XJ. The platform wasn't designed for a 4.0 in the first place, hence the shoe-horn factory install. Oh, wait, didn't realize you had a donor for the swap. That makes everything cheaper when it comes to swapping.

If you encounter crappy customer service... Go elsewhere. It's the only way it ever gets any better.

As long as you get the middle links to about 30*, no, you don't need a panhard. Ever seen a single triangulated rar 4-link? Same deal. And you mean a wishbone 3-link? Hmm.... Sorta. But not really. Wishbones aren't the best setup. But nor is this.

No, both uppers going to the center... Both lowers straight. No crossing. |/\| Err...

That's a crappy deal. My condolences.

It's where one pair of arms is straight (normally the lower arms), as in they are totally perpendicular to the axle. Much like what you'd see on the lower arms of the stock MJ/XJ suspension. Or like the lower arms (if you will) of a radius arm setup (long arms). Then the other pair is on an angle, normally ccoming from the frame to the centre of the axle, and normally they're the uppers. It can cause odd issues because you don't have a track bar (panhard) and the axle does not move in the same plane as your drag link. However, it doesn't seem TOO bad and I can always build a track bar and ditch an upper link if I don't like it.

Stupid toyota consuming all my time. I finially started looking at the parts I have lying around. The 4-link for the rear has just been a f' up from the start. The parts were late because they shipped the wrong ones. But some of it was right, so I got axle brackets and joints and link material. Or so we though. I tacked on the axle brackets and they sucked. It turns out my lower brackets are 5* instead of 30*. @#$%ing sweet. And the lower links are 1.75x.250 4130 instead of 2x.250 4130 that I thought they'd be. I never clarified, it just said "2x.250 lower links, upgradable to chromoly. " If you do the math, the 1.75" chromo is WEAKER than 2" DOM. So what's the god damn point? Saving weight on my links? Sweet, but my truck weighs 4200 and will bend them. And now I have an awesome eye infection that is leaving me half blind (can't wear contacts, can't find my glasses). Oh, and I think I might run a single triangulated 4-link in the front... I know, you're thinking "WHAAAAAAAAAT?" but, it'll work. Maybe. It worked well in a YJ I know of. So, maybe. Tomorrow I'll feel better about it.

Why bother? Take it out of the trans. If you're worried about crap getting in, put some duct tape over the hole.

Day-time running lights? You WANT them? IIRC, they weren't legally required until 95 model years. At least, my 94 dodge does NOT have them, although there might be a story to that. On the YJs with them they had a seperate headlight module. Or something. And didn't show up until they were required. As was the case with almost all vehicles. So it'd probably be the same story for an XJ. So you'd want a 95 or 96 I'd think, and I don't know how much of the harness you'd need or if it hasa seperate module. However, you could set them up yourself. Turn the headlights on... Or key them to the ignition.

3-link and panhard... I think. It's a predicament. The lower links will have to be bent to clear the tires. Bent links aren't the best thing in the world. And I'm not sure how much length I can get on my upper. I'm going to order parts and start working on it again tomorrow, I hope. I might only get it done enough to get it rolling before I call it quits for the winter. MAYBE. I only have a week and a half to work on it. The problem is a buddy brought over his yota to SAS. And that thing has been KICKING MY @$$.

Yeah, I did. However, I think I'd have bent them anyways. Maybe. Things were getting kinda ugly. Not to mention that I managed to get them to wrap up! Besides, they'd need some major weird shackles to have worked the other way. We'll see how the links go. Gotta order more $#!& tomorrow. I think I'll go all RE larges for the front, but I'm not sure. I'm going to phone my guy and see what he says about it.

I'll try TJ fronts in the rear, but I think I'll need XJ fronts. Not sure on the actual front. Some 8" coil I guess.

I'm interested in how much of a noise reduction you'll get form the dynamatt and stuff.

I went and looked at your hood thread ( http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... +brew+cowl ) and you're a hell of a better body man than me. Looks good. Your colour choice is different.

Or just don't go full lock...

My wheeling trip carnaged: Driver's front leaf Passenger rear leaf Wheel bearing on passenger side And probably a bunch of stuff I don't know about. The fact I ran the engine out of coolant didn't help anything. Combine this with the fact that I already had two bent leafs (pass front, driver rear) and that I wasn't entirely happy with my front leafs... And you get this: Image Not Found Blew out all the front $#!&. Took my knuckles, shafts and hubs off the waggy front. No leaf brackets remain (there is one in that picture). And the rear gets this: Image Not Found I'm going to cut it behind the second bed mount (not the cut in the picture) and run my coils off the exo/deck.

Oh, they make 6x5.5 to 5x4.5 adapters/spacers... Kinda pricey.

That's good!

Yeah, but you can't use the isuzu rotors if you go 5x4.5. Which I could have pointed out earlier, but forgot to mention.

You could have shafts made for the isuzu D44 with 5x4.5 pattern, AFAIK. Since it should just take a standard D44 blank. That would cost money however, as custom axle shafts aren't really cheap. The isuzu axles also come in different widths depending on the year, and different gear ratios. 4.30 is common, but you can find 4.56 or 4.10 axles.

I'm too into symetry to be able to let myself do that.

And for the Alaska guys it's down and east...