DirtyComanche

Yeah, I did. However, I think I'd have bent them anyways. Maybe. Things were getting kinda ugly. Not to mention that I managed to get them to wrap up! Besides, they'd need some major weird shackles to have worked the other way. We'll see how the links go. Gotta order more $#!& tomorrow. I think I'll go all RE larges for the front, but I'm not sure. I'm going to phone my guy and see what he says about it.

I'll try TJ fronts in the rear, but I think I'll need XJ fronts. Not sure on the actual front. Some 8" coil I guess.

I'm interested in how much of a noise reduction you'll get form the dynamatt and stuff.

I went and looked at your hood thread ( http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... +brew+cowl ) and you're a hell of a better body man than me. Looks good. Your colour choice is different.

Or just don't go full lock...

My wheeling trip carnaged: Driver's front leaf Passenger rear leaf Wheel bearing on passenger side And probably a bunch of stuff I don't know about. The fact I ran the engine out of coolant didn't help anything. Combine this with the fact that I already had two bent leafs (pass front, driver rear) and that I wasn't entirely happy with my front leafs... And you get this: Image Not Found Blew out all the front $#!&. Took my knuckles, shafts and hubs off the waggy front. No leaf brackets remain (there is one in that picture). And the rear gets this: Image Not Found I'm going to cut it behind the second bed mount (not the cut in the picture) and run my coils off the exo/deck.

Oh, they make 6x5.5 to 5x4.5 adapters/spacers... Kinda pricey.

That's good!

Yeah, but you can't use the isuzu rotors if you go 5x4.5. Which I could have pointed out earlier, but forgot to mention.

You could have shafts made for the isuzu D44 with 5x4.5 pattern, AFAIK. Since it should just take a standard D44 blank. That would cost money however, as custom axle shafts aren't really cheap. The isuzu axles also come in different widths depending on the year, and different gear ratios. 4.30 is common, but you can find 4.56 or 4.10 axles.

I'm too into symetry to be able to let myself do that.

And for the Alaska guys it's down and east...

Then it's like mine. Mine is about to explode. You can fill them by removing the shift tower too, it's easier than trying to get the plug out and ramming a bottle in it.

Peugeots always make noise in reverse. And in most foreward gears. But reverse more-so because the gears are staight cut.

And adds chromo shafts. Pricey, but it is a viable option for some people.

I went wheeling and broke lots of stuff. Updates in their due time.

I guess the other question would how do they do it on the ZJ D44As (aluminum centre)? I should go look at one.

They're bolted.

Currie makes 'em. Aluminum centre, DOM tubes. So, how do they retain the tubes in the centre section? It looks like they tap the tubes and use set-scres or bolts, but I'm really not sure. This is jsut curiosity. http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... kjock.aspx :nuts:

Image Not Found And here's ugly.

All the renix motors were closed. For many years it was a 'fad' to convert to the open system.

Got one of the axle out of the truck with the hydro ram on it, it's in my other build thread where I did the front leafs... I can get you a better pic of the steering so you can see how HACK it is though. You'll just have to wait until later today for it.

They're waggy fronts. You're more likely to have wobbles with leafs than not. The steering is bad. I used PMP knuckles and arms (1" taller than milled knuckles) and the static angle is taken out in the arms. And I cut down the waggy inverted T setup. It had issues. The TR/DL attach point would hit the leaf spring. And itdoesn't steer worth $#!& at speed, and that was after I fixed the TR roll problems.

If anybody else has pictures to add to this thread, I'd like to see them, and I imagine smithe1811 would benefit from them too.

There's a lot of litting things to add to that. However, a NP231J will work behind V8 power mostly without issues. A HD SYE is a must, and the front output is susceptable to failure, but it's not a huge deal for the typical wheeler. Exhaust has to be adressed too. Along with things like the ACC drive (Which may or may not come with the engine, and may not fit). The distributor on the older (HEI) engines will massively not clear the firewall. Oh, you can put an AW4 behind a SBC too. It'd be okay. It can either be really cheap or really expensive depending how you do it, and what parts you buy and for how much.