DirtyComanche

Then it's like mine. Mine is about to explode. You can fill them by removing the shift tower too, it's easier than trying to get the plug out and ramming a bottle in it.

Peugeots always make noise in reverse. And in most foreward gears. But reverse more-so because the gears are staight cut.

And adds chromo shafts. Pricey, but it is a viable option for some people.

I went wheeling and broke lots of stuff. Updates in their due time.

I guess the other question would how do they do it on the ZJ D44As (aluminum centre)? I should go look at one.

They're bolted.

Currie makes 'em. Aluminum centre, DOM tubes. So, how do they retain the tubes in the centre section? It looks like they tap the tubes and use set-scres or bolts, but I'm really not sure. This is jsut curiosity. http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestor ... kjock.aspx :nuts:

Image Not Found And here's ugly.

All the renix motors were closed. For many years it was a 'fad' to convert to the open system.

Got one of the axle out of the truck with the hydro ram on it, it's in my other build thread where I did the front leafs... I can get you a better pic of the steering so you can see how HACK it is though. You'll just have to wait until later today for it.

They're waggy fronts. You're more likely to have wobbles with leafs than not. The steering is bad. I used PMP knuckles and arms (1" taller than milled knuckles) and the static angle is taken out in the arms. And I cut down the waggy inverted T setup. It had issues. The TR/DL attach point would hit the leaf spring. And itdoesn't steer worth $#!& at speed, and that was after I fixed the TR roll problems.

If anybody else has pictures to add to this thread, I'd like to see them, and I imagine smithe1811 would benefit from them too.

There's a lot of litting things to add to that. However, a NP231J will work behind V8 power mostly without issues. A HD SYE is a must, and the front output is susceptable to failure, but it's not a huge deal for the typical wheeler. Exhaust has to be adressed too. Along with things like the ACC drive (Which may or may not come with the engine, and may not fit). The distributor on the older (HEI) engines will massively not clear the firewall. Oh, you can put an AW4 behind a SBC too. It'd be okay. It can either be really cheap or really expensive depending how you do it, and what parts you buy and for how much.

SBC in a cherokee. Image Not Found Image Not Found

JJacobs or whatever his name is/was on NAXJA had a MJ with a 401 in it, IIRC. I don't know how that all worked out. There was somebody on here doing a 360... I forget! He'd almost had it buttoned up, but it didn't clear the hood and I think he had cash flow issues. I've actually seen suprisingly few examples of V8s in the MJ/XJ platform. Which is unfortunate.

However, novak does make the motor mounts, and block-hugger or the early vette (cast) headers can be made to clear quite easily. Although, it might actually be easier than that (I think there's enough room to run more conventional headers, just I'm not sure that anybody has tried it). The cooling system will need a major re-vamp, and you'll probably need a custom radiator or you'll have to BS around with the 4.0L one (multi-core aluminum one). And there's not huge gaurentees on these things. For a tranny you could use a th-350, th-400, 700R4, sm420/465 (clunker 4-speeds) or a couple other better manual trannies (I don't know much about sticks for chevies). All depending on your goals for the truck. Most tcases can be bolted up to these if you're 4wd, but the NP231J would need an adapter or some parts changed. Hopefully somebody on here who has done one, or an AMC 360, or something like that will chime in.

You're not the only one crying about that. There might be one in the works for that reason...

You'll need a tranny that'll bolt to it. And you run into a few clearance issues. There's at least two trucks on here with SBCs in them.

Pretty much.

Stock, no, they don't really like it. Stock power they'll hold up for a long time though. The problem is that the CTDs are really easy to get a LOT of power out of, so most people double their horsepower and then are suprised when they cook their trannies. With little more than a shift kit they'll hold up to heavy towing with a mildly upgraded engine without issues. Go a bit farther and you'll want a new TC. Actually, the stock ones suck so bad that it's worth it to buy a new one right away, but they'll survive without. The manuals explode just as easily, but are saved because normally you let off when you shift. There's no real advantage either way.

It says on the intake manifold. And I'd swap the inject with #2. See if the problem is on the #2 cylinder. If so, I'd probably get new injectors (yeah right) or soak them in injector cleaner, or more than likely I'd go to the boneyard and snag a couple more.

It's a sweet project. Not my thing, but it's so different than the typical S-10. Besides, I think the MJ's lines will make it look great.

Uh-oh, I started another brand/model war.

It's rather tall... The front works out to 9-10" of lift and the rear is about 8". I know I want to drop the front, but I'm not sure if I should drop the rear too.

This might solve some of my issues. Stupid 231.