DirtyComanche

After much searching, I found something, and it seems reasonable, but I'll ask if anybody else knows for sure. 92 LWB - 4.0L - 4WD - 3313lbs 90 LWB - 2.5L - 2WD - 2986lbs. Seems reasonable? I think so...

I'd do it for a j-truck. I helped a friend SAS a toyota truck last weekend. It was about as much work as doing a 2wd-4wd conversion IMHO, and I didn't get no freakin j-truck.

All batteries have some sort of pressure relief mechanism for the event of an internal failure. Well, almost, some don't (mercury batteries). So, yeah, I'd imagine it's having issues...

Even in 4wd it won't be too bad.... Torque steer affects ricers far more than a 4wd truck.

Cruise control junky. I've never had a vehicle that it worked on, so I haven't had a chance to get hooked.

And if you want those tires to work in the rear, you'll need like 2.5" BS on a 15x8. Normally people run spacers on an 8.8 so they can run 3.5" BS 15x8s (or something liek that).

THe ones that allow you to keep the 4x4.5 bolt pattern are garbage. And I don't feel overly high of the other kits either. But that's me. I had selectables on my D44 and got so annoyed with them that I put drive flanges back in.

Yes, build a large bracket on the axle, and not a drop mount on the frame. The problem is that you run into clearance issues. It's a bit of a balancing act.

I don't know how well it will work. The calculator removes the doubt on things like that. But, just looking at it, it should work fine. Or at least acceptable. The 3-link/panhard setup has a few problems in the rear, mostly to do with flex steer. With a panhard, you want it as high as possibly to make the roll axis high (more stability).

Looking back at this, I think the funniest part was what I wrote about front leafs. Ah well.

Ah. If the upper link is less than about 2/3 the length of the lowers, typically the AS will be whack. Along with the roll axis. Not to mention the pinion going all over the place (and hence your driveshaft). With a panhard, no triangulation is necessary. However, it is good if you can as it helps with the roll axis. Is this front or rear? I kinda skimmed through your thread, but didn't really read it (sorry, was getting to it).

It's microsoft product, so it's pretty much a wonder if it actually works at all.

What type of three link is it for? I've never used it because I lack excel, only the 4-link one (on-line). You'll need a panhard in there. (Maybe this is obvious, okay, it probably is, I've never used that oen so I don't know). Wait, the --- is the panhard, no... Sounds more like you have either transposed digits, or have a compatibility problem with excel.

Short answer is nope. Long answer... Maybe if I get back in the mood to do it. But for the most part I enjoy learning new things rather than attempting to compline my thoughts on things I already know (or think I know).

So... :nuts:

Somebody understands me!

Their deficency is like most CVs, they're weak. I don't know if they make parts for them anymore... I'd be tempted to try running them in an AWD street truck, but I doubt they'd work out so well.

You'll have clearance issues between the TR ad DL before you do with the oil pan. At least, that's how my memory works. I've got a waggy drop arm and I hammer the DL at the pitman arm into the TR. I'd probably suggest running the high-steer under the arms before trying to run low steering over the arms. That's how my waggy axle was stock, and it didn't work so hot. I don't think the extra stress on the ball-joints is going to be a huge issue, but that's up to you. But, I might have to look at that again to get you a clearer answer. I have to look at mine again because it's screwed up.

100%. 86s had it optionally. But no D44s then. They showed up in 87.

I don't think anything but that you should get some chevy knuckles and do real high-steer. Waggy pitman arm? The flat one? Hmm..

That's a ghetto fab cherokee. I'd rock it.

I'd take that one if I could get it, it'd make a great starting point for my street truck plan (otherwise known as another waste of time and money).

Apparently I managed to annoy them farther and they banned me permanently. Yes, I just had to try logging in again.

Uh, NP231 be shift on fly. Hammer 'er into 4wd, she'll go. 4Lo not such a good idea that way, doesn't have synchros. But it needs movement because of that. And find your vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks are never a good thing.

Expensive. There's a thing called a cost to power ratio. With a 4-oh it's always high. There's just no aftermarket for it. Roller rockers for it are $500 for the set, decent SBC ones are about $200 and a set has 4 more. IF you want decent rods, they have to be custom. Same goes for a crank. The pistions aren't the right size to get you anywhere (unless you over-bore like mad). An aluminum head is hella expensive (iron is crap). That and throw in the cam harmonics and the crank harmonics, and that you can't run a roller cam (without going mega expensive) and I really ask WHY BOTHER! Gut it and stick a SBC in. You'll be miles ahead. A LT1 will save you something like 75lbs off the front end (or any aluminum head SBC). Although, I'm not sure if you mean CSB as chrysler or chevy, but w/e.