DirtyComanche

Now I'm really drunk. :cheers: Stupid jager bombs. And it's a freaking tuesday. I think.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me) It's all terminology. I have one friend who refers to ALL axles as "rears," even when used in the front. And that's how the term "reverse rotation" came about. Put a rear diff in the front, and when the vehicle is going forward the ring gear spins in the reverse of the direction it would in the rear. Hence, "Reverse rotation." Obviously, if it's literally a rear axle that's flipped and put in the front, that also means the teeth are engaging on the "coast" side rather than the "drive" side. So the manufacturers started making "reverse cut" or "reverse bevel" gearsets so that gears rotating in the reverse direction would still be engaging on the strong side. High and low pinion actually are unrelated to direction of rotation. What happens, though, is if a rear is low pinion and you just put it in the front, it rotates in reverse. So then if you flip it over so the pinion sits high, it magically rotates in the correct direction again. Without reverse cut gears. Reverse bevel gears are necessary when using a low pinion axle in the front. At least, I think that's how it works. It's been awhile since I've thought about all that, so I may have gotten myself confused. Yes, high and low pinion having nothing to do with rotation. Hence nobody should call a HP axle reverse rotation. But I have no idea what you're talking about otherwise. I'm a little drunk. But I know this. Take a rear D44 and install it in the front of your truck and it'll drive the right direction (other than a few driveshaft and steering issues). Take a HP front D44 and throw it in the rear and it'll drive the right direction. It will however ride the 'wrong' (coast) side of the gears doing either of the above mention situations, given you're on the power moving the vehicle forewards. I have no idea if you're agreeing with me or not, or if I'm agreeing with you. Stupid cheap beer. And randy's website is retarded. Talk to dana. They call HP 'reverse crown'.

I did that one in a sheetmetal shear. And you aren't supposed to bleed it with the engine on, but as long as the pump doesn't run dry for a longer than a couple seconds it's fine.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me)

Crappy.

A 3/8 extension won't fit in it. So, I'd say no...

Too full doesn't seem to be a problem. I live on the assumption it'll explode sooner or later, and probably sooner at that, so why get caught up in the details? I lost a tooth or 5 off reverse the last time out, near as I can tell...

Probably. I thought about it after I posted and 12 seems to big. Silly metric.

Understand that this is an article I threw together a while back. The idea was I'd have a hydro-assist part that would go with it, but it just hasn't happened. So, this part is here to be picked on. ------------- How-to: DIY Power Steering Pump Upgrade. Applicable to: Most late model jeep power steering pumps, an XJ/MJ model is shown and this article is written with them in mind. Purpose: A cheap and easy way to get a little more out of your power steering; to aid in turning with both stock steering setups and hydro-assist. Tools Needed: -Basic wrenches/sockets -Drill/Drill bits -Vice (and soft jaws, or some hose) These mods can be done with the pump in or out of the vehicle. I did it to a removed pump as I was in the process of swapping out a dead pump at the time. I would suggest having some clean rags around as well as a tray or piece of cardboard to set the parts out on. A few of the piece are very small and if you lose them you will be in big trouble! Also, a can of brake cleaner works wonders for cleaning up all the pieces. You do not want to re-assemble a pump with dirt or other foreign material in it. Step 1: Remove the high pressure hose from the pump housing. It may be VERY tight depending on how long it has been there. To avoid problems I would throw a little penetrating oil on both the threads and the centre of the fitting before attempting removal. Image Not Found At this time if you wish to remove the pump you should also undo all the other relevant bolts and lines. Step 2: Remove the output fitting from the pump. This is the fitting that the high pressure hose threads into. It too can be very tight. This fitting actually acts as a restrictor valve, and we will be taking care of it later. Image Not Found Step 3: Looking down in where the fitting is removed, you can see the pressure regulator. Image Not Found It has a spring behind it and might just pop out on its own. Or you may need a small magnetic jobby and some wiggling to get it out. Or if the pump is removed, you can flip it upside down and shake it a bit. Be careful not to lose the regulator or spring behind it. You do not need to remove the spring from behind the regulator, but if it falls out you might as well clean it and set it aside until re-assembly. It will not be modified in this article. Image Not Found Left to Right: Output Fitting, Regulator, Spring. Step 4: This step is only really necessary if you have hydro-assist steering. You can however do it with stock steering; there just might not be any gain. The purpose of this is to increase the flow output from the pump at lower RPM. With hydro-assist your steering may feel sluggish at or around idle. This mod will often correct this. Mount the output fitting in the vice. Or a drill press if you have one. Image Not Found Then select a drill bit to increase the size of the restriction valve. 3/16" is as large as anyone should realistically need. Drill through the small opening that is at the bottom of the fitting (looking down). And it'll look something like this: Image Not Found Not a huge visible difference, but it really increases the amount of flow. Step 5: Now we are going to deal with the pressure regulator. This will increase pump output pressure and will be beneficial to both stock and hydo-assist steering. I will warn you right now that small modification to a regulator can produce a wild pressure increase. If you go too far you will split hoses and blow seals... The regulator comes apart quite simply - just remove the nut on the end of it. This is where you need soft jaws for your vice, or a piece of hose. Mount the fitting in the vice and remove the nut: Image Not Found Be cautioned that there is a spring and a ball in there. You don't want to lose either! Exploded it will look this this: Image Not Found Left to Right: Regulator body, spring, stud, ball, shim, cap/inlet. There may or may not be a shim/washer. Of both the pumps I did, one had it and the other didn't. If there is a shim, the first step would be to throw it out. You can stop there as it will mildly increase output pressure. If you want more, you need to put a washer inside the regulator housing. A #4 machine washer works, and is thicker (more pressure), and a 3mm will work and provide less pressure. I personally haven't tried both so I'm not sure how much difference there is. The inside of the washer should be drilled out so that the limiting stud can fit through it, or the stud can be trimmed down slightly. Drilled-out washer inserted. Image Not Found Step 6: Put it all back together! Hook up the lines and fill the reservoir with fluid. Then bleed the system by turning the engine on and cranking the steering back and forth a couple time, while checking the fluid level and making sure you've not got any leaks. If it all checks out go for a test drive. Hopefully there will be an improvement. If not, you can go back and try a thicker washer.

It's 12mm, IIRC. Buuuuuuuuuut, you'll probably have trouble getting it out if you make it out of aluminum. Not to mention that you then have to wedge a bottle up there and squeeze it in some how. Take the shift tower off... Way easier.

Mine had 235/75R15s on it when I bought it. They fit decent, a little contact on the LCAs at full lock. Those rims should work too. I think the largest factory tire was a 225/75R15. Speedo was about 5% low, IIRC. Not enoguh to matter to me.

You get a PM in a bit...

The falling down seatbelt thing annoyed me enough that I ditched the centre console. I'd like to see people look for better seats than the XJ ones... I've seen ZJ seats swapped in.

There's nothing wrong with the renix EFI as long as you're willing to listen to it... However, typically vehicles with it at this point in their life (they're all about 20 years old now) have fallen slightly into disrepair, so it might seem problematic until you change a few parts and clean some things up.

Wait, a rear D44, sorry, I was thinkin front. The 5x4.5 pattern will work easily with that. If you change the bolt pattern, the brake parts won't work. Sometimes it can be worked around (different rotors), but not always. However, an XJ/MJ rear D44 will have 5x4.5 bolt pattern and AFAIK the ZJ brakes can go on it.

Bolt pattern is the lug/stud pattern for the wheels. A D44 front won't reasonably work as a 5x4.5 pattern. 5x5.5 and 6x5.5 and 8x5.5 can be had easily wirth sock parts, and I think with a bit of machine work a guy can make 5x5 work on a D44. A unitized hub D44 can be made to work as 5x4.5, and in fact there's a factory one that is thaty way - but they aren't srong.

I think there's too much crap in the engine bay to pull it off. (at least for a 4.0) Mine only has about 5 visible wires, and the plug wires... But I cheat.

Did you stop drill that crack before welding? Then put a doubler on it or something? Curious.

Yup. Good for that, if that's what you need. Doesn't help the hubs to live long and prosper, though. No, not exactly. But they'd survive street use and mild wheeling for a long time. Anything else and a guy should consider something different anyways. D30 wheel bearings aren't exactly awesome. They're a cheap option for the junkyard lover.

I don't think the 19-spline shafts are very big... Also, the 30 spline ones are only D44 sized. Whoopy. An axle that weighs twice what a D44 does and is only as strong. Sure, you can fix that... Most of the full-float ones are reasonably easily upgraded by use of D70 shafts and boring out the spindles. Which is actually quite the PITA unless you're willing to pay a machine shop to chuck the housing on a lathe. There's semi-float ones with 35 splines from the factory I think, out of chevy vans. Lots of guys run them as they're a lighter and less complicated than a full floater, and avaliable. Narrowing a rear housing is a little more complicated, but as long as you have an alignment bar you can do a full-floater easily enough.

No first-hand knowledge. Verify backspacing, it's probably wrong. I had van rims on my old XJ. They were 15x7 with 3.5" BS. So yes, wrong, but they worked good for kicking the tires out of the LCAs.

Crown victorias... And a lot of other stuff. Cary tape measure.

We had to try 4 computers before it worked. And wow, it livened up the already lively dorm life. So much that I had to go mix myself a couple double long islands. Now to only see that in person.

I have nothing against the eaton 20. The ones offered in jeeps typically had weak tubes and crappy carriers. All are fixable. But they aren't 1-ton. Eaton made real 1-ton diffs for chevy back in the 60's... Personally I think the H1 is a pile. It RTIs about 300. Awesome.

The lengths between them is within .5" IIRC. The NV242AMG (hummer H1) case is a heavy duty version, but it offers no 2wd provisions. How heavy duty it is, I don't know. It lives behind a 6.5 turbo diesel, and those things are damn slow. Not to mention that we're talking 'heavy duty'as in a truck that uses AMC 20s for diffs. Not that there's anything wrong with the eaton 20, but it's not exacty 1-ton strength. The chevy NV242HD I do not know anything about.