DirtyComanche

Probably. I thought about it after I posted and 12 seems to big. Silly metric.

Understand that this is an article I threw together a while back. The idea was I'd have a hydro-assist part that would go with it, but it just hasn't happened. So, this part is here to be picked on. ------------- How-to: DIY Power Steering Pump Upgrade. Applicable to: Most late model jeep power steering pumps, an XJ/MJ model is shown and this article is written with them in mind. Purpose: A cheap and easy way to get a little more out of your power steering; to aid in turning with both stock steering setups and hydro-assist. Tools Needed: -Basic wrenches/sockets -Drill/Drill bits -Vice (and soft jaws, or some hose) These mods can be done with the pump in or out of the vehicle. I did it to a removed pump as I was in the process of swapping out a dead pump at the time. I would suggest having some clean rags around as well as a tray or piece of cardboard to set the parts out on. A few of the piece are very small and if you lose them you will be in big trouble! Also, a can of brake cleaner works wonders for cleaning up all the pieces. You do not want to re-assemble a pump with dirt or other foreign material in it. Step 1: Remove the high pressure hose from the pump housing. It may be VERY tight depending on how long it has been there. To avoid problems I would throw a little penetrating oil on both the threads and the centre of the fitting before attempting removal. Image Not Found At this time if you wish to remove the pump you should also undo all the other relevant bolts and lines. Step 2: Remove the output fitting from the pump. This is the fitting that the high pressure hose threads into. It too can be very tight. This fitting actually acts as a restrictor valve, and we will be taking care of it later. Image Not Found Step 3: Looking down in where the fitting is removed, you can see the pressure regulator. Image Not Found It has a spring behind it and might just pop out on its own. Or you may need a small magnetic jobby and some wiggling to get it out. Or if the pump is removed, you can flip it upside down and shake it a bit. Be careful not to lose the regulator or spring behind it. You do not need to remove the spring from behind the regulator, but if it falls out you might as well clean it and set it aside until re-assembly. It will not be modified in this article. Image Not Found Left to Right: Output Fitting, Regulator, Spring. Step 4: This step is only really necessary if you have hydro-assist steering. You can however do it with stock steering; there just might not be any gain. The purpose of this is to increase the flow output from the pump at lower RPM. With hydro-assist your steering may feel sluggish at or around idle. This mod will often correct this. Mount the output fitting in the vice. Or a drill press if you have one. Image Not Found Then select a drill bit to increase the size of the restriction valve. 3/16" is as large as anyone should realistically need. Drill through the small opening that is at the bottom of the fitting (looking down). And it'll look something like this: Image Not Found Not a huge visible difference, but it really increases the amount of flow. Step 5: Now we are going to deal with the pressure regulator. This will increase pump output pressure and will be beneficial to both stock and hydo-assist steering. I will warn you right now that small modification to a regulator can produce a wild pressure increase. If you go too far you will split hoses and blow seals... The regulator comes apart quite simply - just remove the nut on the end of it. This is where you need soft jaws for your vice, or a piece of hose. Mount the fitting in the vice and remove the nut: Image Not Found Be cautioned that there is a spring and a ball in there. You don't want to lose either! Exploded it will look this this: Image Not Found Left to Right: Regulator body, spring, stud, ball, shim, cap/inlet. There may or may not be a shim/washer. Of both the pumps I did, one had it and the other didn't. If there is a shim, the first step would be to throw it out. You can stop there as it will mildly increase output pressure. If you want more, you need to put a washer inside the regulator housing. A #4 machine washer works, and is thicker (more pressure), and a 3mm will work and provide less pressure. I personally haven't tried both so I'm not sure how much difference there is. The inside of the washer should be drilled out so that the limiting stud can fit through it, or the stud can be trimmed down slightly. Drilled-out washer inserted. Image Not Found Step 6: Put it all back together! Hook up the lines and fill the reservoir with fluid. Then bleed the system by turning the engine on and cranking the steering back and forth a couple time, while checking the fluid level and making sure you've not got any leaks. If it all checks out go for a test drive. Hopefully there will be an improvement. If not, you can go back and try a thicker washer.

It's 12mm, IIRC. Buuuuuuuuuut, you'll probably have trouble getting it out if you make it out of aluminum. Not to mention that you then have to wedge a bottle up there and squeeze it in some how. Take the shift tower off... Way easier.

Mine had 235/75R15s on it when I bought it. They fit decent, a little contact on the LCAs at full lock. Those rims should work too. I think the largest factory tire was a 225/75R15. Speedo was about 5% low, IIRC. Not enoguh to matter to me.

You get a PM in a bit...

The falling down seatbelt thing annoyed me enough that I ditched the centre console. I'd like to see people look for better seats than the XJ ones... I've seen ZJ seats swapped in.

There's nothing wrong with the renix EFI as long as you're willing to listen to it... However, typically vehicles with it at this point in their life (they're all about 20 years old now) have fallen slightly into disrepair, so it might seem problematic until you change a few parts and clean some things up.

Wait, a rear D44, sorry, I was thinkin front. The 5x4.5 pattern will work easily with that. If you change the bolt pattern, the brake parts won't work. Sometimes it can be worked around (different rotors), but not always. However, an XJ/MJ rear D44 will have 5x4.5 bolt pattern and AFAIK the ZJ brakes can go on it.

Bolt pattern is the lug/stud pattern for the wheels. A D44 front won't reasonably work as a 5x4.5 pattern. 5x5.5 and 6x5.5 and 8x5.5 can be had easily wirth sock parts, and I think with a bit of machine work a guy can make 5x5 work on a D44. A unitized hub D44 can be made to work as 5x4.5, and in fact there's a factory one that is thaty way - but they aren't srong.

I think there's too much crap in the engine bay to pull it off. (at least for a 4.0) Mine only has about 5 visible wires, and the plug wires... But I cheat.

Did you stop drill that crack before welding? Then put a doubler on it or something? Curious.

Yup. Good for that, if that's what you need. Doesn't help the hubs to live long and prosper, though. No, not exactly. But they'd survive street use and mild wheeling for a long time. Anything else and a guy should consider something different anyways. D30 wheel bearings aren't exactly awesome. They're a cheap option for the junkyard lover.

I don't think the 19-spline shafts are very big... Also, the 30 spline ones are only D44 sized. Whoopy. An axle that weighs twice what a D44 does and is only as strong. Sure, you can fix that... Most of the full-float ones are reasonably easily upgraded by use of D70 shafts and boring out the spindles. Which is actually quite the PITA unless you're willing to pay a machine shop to chuck the housing on a lathe. There's semi-float ones with 35 splines from the factory I think, out of chevy vans. Lots of guys run them as they're a lighter and less complicated than a full floater, and avaliable. Narrowing a rear housing is a little more complicated, but as long as you have an alignment bar you can do a full-floater easily enough.

No first-hand knowledge. Verify backspacing, it's probably wrong. I had van rims on my old XJ. They were 15x7 with 3.5" BS. So yes, wrong, but they worked good for kicking the tires out of the LCAs.

Crown victorias... And a lot of other stuff. Cary tape measure.

We had to try 4 computers before it worked. And wow, it livened up the already lively dorm life. So much that I had to go mix myself a couple double long islands. Now to only see that in person.

I have nothing against the eaton 20. The ones offered in jeeps typically had weak tubes and crappy carriers. All are fixable. But they aren't 1-ton. Eaton made real 1-ton diffs for chevy back in the 60's... Personally I think the H1 is a pile. It RTIs about 300. Awesome.

The lengths between them is within .5" IIRC. The NV242AMG (hummer H1) case is a heavy duty version, but it offers no 2wd provisions. How heavy duty it is, I don't know. It lives behind a 6.5 turbo diesel, and those things are damn slow. Not to mention that we're talking 'heavy duty'as in a truck that uses AMC 20s for diffs. Not that there's anything wrong with the eaton 20, but it's not exacty 1-ton strength. The chevy NV242HD I do not know anything about.

I've seen 231 parts scattered before... The problem with the 242 is that you can't upgrade the rear output. Which is actually a pretty easy thing to break on a stock 231, and the stock 242 one is the same size.

The difference between the cases is the 242 offers an "AWD" mode (Full time) and has a central differential. It has limitatons.

I think some of the FSJ stuff was 5-lug, but maybe not. I don't think there's anything really close. There's some stuff that's 62 or 64" wide. And the car stuff (mopar) which is hard to find and maybe good, maybe bad... Dunno.

Are those seats comfortable?

I guess a base vehicle would have the 2.5L? A 4.0 weighs about 525 turnkey, but I don't know what a 2.5L weighs?

For headers, I think you'd be far ahead if you build your own. I was watching musclecar (or something) and they did it by buying the flanges and a box full o tubing that was bnt 180*. They just cut it, tacked it, and once it all fit right took it out and welded it. Easy? No, not really. But then you could make them to build power how you want.

According to his build thread, they clear.