DirtyComanche

Anybody notice the missing parts? Somebody bit off more than they could chew.

Giving it hell? That was a sunday cruise if you ask me.

Is that Steven Colbert (spelling? pronounced col-bear) guy still in it? He'd get my vote. But I don't live there!

I hate D35s.

Not entirely true. Or apparently, from what I understand. With the GM style P/S boxes, they reach a certain point (which is iffy) and they automatically bypass the fluid to prevent stress on steering components. That can become iffy once you mess with the steering geometry (pitman arm, knuckles, etc) and the box may or may not bypass. However, typically it works out close enough and doesn't matter. And thus my hydro assist ram doesn't blow my knuckles off, despite it having 2" more travel than the rest of my steering. And FWIW, overheating a pump in such a manner (if it didn't bypass) is highly unlikely to me. That's a lot of sitting at the steering locks. And it'll probably hit 1200psi peak for a stocker. Which for short periods on such a pump is nothing. Yes, slow speed yarding it back and forth for soem time will overheat it...

Huh?

And jsut for the record, this is how I trimmed the front of my XJ... Image Not Found It had flares on it, hence there's holes...

Besides, having it my way it'd be trimemd more like this: Image Not Found

And I think we were sober.

They're 31x10.5s. That's a stock height XJ. Other than the sag and broken coil dropping it! Buddy showed up with it one day out of the blue and said "I've got mad rubbing, help me!" so we went to town. It's a rust bucket and had been in a couple accidents, so it wasn't like we were wasting time with the pretty BS.

It looks like he body is sill good... But I'm not exactly sober, so IDK.

I've never even drawn lines or masked it... Just get the angle grinder and give'r. Image Not Found That thing was a pile anyways, so we didn't even go for looking decent...

It's not worth it. Way too much money to change it. Buy a grand waggy diff if you want a LP D44.

Now I'm really drunk. :cheers: Stupid jager bombs. And it's a freaking tuesday. I think.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me) It's all terminology. I have one friend who refers to ALL axles as "rears," even when used in the front. And that's how the term "reverse rotation" came about. Put a rear diff in the front, and when the vehicle is going forward the ring gear spins in the reverse of the direction it would in the rear. Hence, "Reverse rotation." Obviously, if it's literally a rear axle that's flipped and put in the front, that also means the teeth are engaging on the "coast" side rather than the "drive" side. So the manufacturers started making "reverse cut" or "reverse bevel" gearsets so that gears rotating in the reverse direction would still be engaging on the strong side. High and low pinion actually are unrelated to direction of rotation. What happens, though, is if a rear is low pinion and you just put it in the front, it rotates in reverse. So then if you flip it over so the pinion sits high, it magically rotates in the correct direction again. Without reverse cut gears. Reverse bevel gears are necessary when using a low pinion axle in the front. At least, I think that's how it works. It's been awhile since I've thought about all that, so I may have gotten myself confused. Yes, high and low pinion having nothing to do with rotation. Hence nobody should call a HP axle reverse rotation. But I have no idea what you're talking about otherwise. I'm a little drunk. But I know this. Take a rear D44 and install it in the front of your truck and it'll drive the right direction (other than a few driveshaft and steering issues). Take a HP front D44 and throw it in the rear and it'll drive the right direction. It will however ride the 'wrong' (coast) side of the gears doing either of the above mention situations, given you're on the power moving the vehicle forewards. I have no idea if you're agreeing with me or not, or if I'm agreeing with you. Stupid cheap beer. And randy's website is retarded. Talk to dana. They call HP 'reverse crown'.

I did that one in a sheetmetal shear. And you aren't supposed to bleed it with the engine on, but as long as the pump doesn't run dry for a longer than a couple seconds it's fine.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me)

Crappy.

A 3/8 extension won't fit in it. So, I'd say no...

Too full doesn't seem to be a problem. I live on the assumption it'll explode sooner or later, and probably sooner at that, so why get caught up in the details? I lost a tooth or 5 off reverse the last time out, near as I can tell...

Probably. I thought about it after I posted and 12 seems to big. Silly metric.

Understand that this is an article I threw together a while back. The idea was I'd have a hydro-assist part that would go with it, but it just hasn't happened. So, this part is here to be picked on. ------------- How-to: DIY Power Steering Pump Upgrade. Applicable to: Most late model jeep power steering pumps, an XJ/MJ model is shown and this article is written with them in mind. Purpose: A cheap and easy way to get a little more out of your power steering; to aid in turning with both stock steering setups and hydro-assist. Tools Needed: -Basic wrenches/sockets -Drill/Drill bits -Vice (and soft jaws, or some hose) These mods can be done with the pump in or out of the vehicle. I did it to a removed pump as I was in the process of swapping out a dead pump at the time. I would suggest having some clean rags around as well as a tray or piece of cardboard to set the parts out on. A few of the piece are very small and if you lose them you will be in big trouble! Also, a can of brake cleaner works wonders for cleaning up all the pieces. You do not want to re-assemble a pump with dirt or other foreign material in it. Step 1: Remove the high pressure hose from the pump housing. It may be VERY tight depending on how long it has been there. To avoid problems I would throw a little penetrating oil on both the threads and the centre of the fitting before attempting removal. Image Not Found At this time if you wish to remove the pump you should also undo all the other relevant bolts and lines. Step 2: Remove the output fitting from the pump. This is the fitting that the high pressure hose threads into. It too can be very tight. This fitting actually acts as a restrictor valve, and we will be taking care of it later. Image Not Found Step 3: Looking down in where the fitting is removed, you can see the pressure regulator. Image Not Found It has a spring behind it and might just pop out on its own. Or you may need a small magnetic jobby and some wiggling to get it out. Or if the pump is removed, you can flip it upside down and shake it a bit. Be careful not to lose the regulator or spring behind it. You do not need to remove the spring from behind the regulator, but if it falls out you might as well clean it and set it aside until re-assembly. It will not be modified in this article. Image Not Found Left to Right: Output Fitting, Regulator, Spring. Step 4: This step is only really necessary if you have hydro-assist steering. You can however do it with stock steering; there just might not be any gain. The purpose of this is to increase the flow output from the pump at lower RPM. With hydro-assist your steering may feel sluggish at or around idle. This mod will often correct this. Mount the output fitting in the vice. Or a drill press if you have one. Image Not Found Then select a drill bit to increase the size of the restriction valve. 3/16" is as large as anyone should realistically need. Drill through the small opening that is at the bottom of the fitting (looking down). And it'll look something like this: Image Not Found Not a huge visible difference, but it really increases the amount of flow. Step 5: Now we are going to deal with the pressure regulator. This will increase pump output pressure and will be beneficial to both stock and hydo-assist steering. I will warn you right now that small modification to a regulator can produce a wild pressure increase. If you go too far you will split hoses and blow seals... The regulator comes apart quite simply - just remove the nut on the end of it. This is where you need soft jaws for your vice, or a piece of hose. Mount the fitting in the vice and remove the nut: Image Not Found Be cautioned that there is a spring and a ball in there. You don't want to lose either! Exploded it will look this this: Image Not Found Left to Right: Regulator body, spring, stud, ball, shim, cap/inlet. There may or may not be a shim/washer. Of both the pumps I did, one had it and the other didn't. If there is a shim, the first step would be to throw it out. You can stop there as it will mildly increase output pressure. If you want more, you need to put a washer inside the regulator housing. A #4 machine washer works, and is thicker (more pressure), and a 3mm will work and provide less pressure. I personally haven't tried both so I'm not sure how much difference there is. The inside of the washer should be drilled out so that the limiting stud can fit through it, or the stud can be trimmed down slightly. Drilled-out washer inserted. Image Not Found Step 6: Put it all back together! Hook up the lines and fill the reservoir with fluid. Then bleed the system by turning the engine on and cranking the steering back and forth a couple time, while checking the fluid level and making sure you've not got any leaks. If it all checks out go for a test drive. Hopefully there will be an improvement. If not, you can go back and try a thicker washer.

It's 12mm, IIRC. Buuuuuuuuuut, you'll probably have trouble getting it out if you make it out of aluminum. Not to mention that you then have to wedge a bottle up there and squeeze it in some how. Take the shift tower off... Way easier.

Mine had 235/75R15s on it when I bought it. They fit decent, a little contact on the LCAs at full lock. Those rims should work too. I think the largest factory tire was a 225/75R15. Speedo was about 5% low, IIRC. Not enoguh to matter to me.

You get a PM in a bit...