DirtyComanche

I have about 10" lift with 37s. I think it's too tall, but it isn't tippy or anything.

It's based on the principle that the acetone will lower the vapour point or decrease surface tension of the gasoline. With a carb it might work. With a EFI engine you're going to see nothing, other than the inreased cost of the acetone. However, it will pull water and contaminantes out of your fuel system, whic might help (basically acts as injector cleaner). Would I do it? Hell no. And E85 is a joke. It takes more energy to make it than there is in it. It survives on government subsidies. Give it time, it'll go.

For it to sit level I would guess you'll need 10-12". Spacers and coils...

Only if you have a leak... Or, sometimes salt/dirt/water gets trapped behind the factory rubber inner fender guards and will put a nice hole into the floor there and you'll have problems in a short order as more stuff can get in. Both my MJs were rock solid (my 86 had just a skiff of surface rust on the floor) but my XJ was a pile due to the inner fenders. It depends what has happened in the truck's life.

Exactly! They're cheap, and when they go bad they should be replaced. And comanches had a few benefits from the factory that other trucks didn't. They zinc-plated the actual uniframe on them, which really prevents corrosion. And factory undercoating is fairly common, which keeps the whole underside totally peachy. Which is nice if you want to try a resto. There's a few parts that are bad for rust though (above the wheel wells in the bed, inside the cab at the rear corners, the whole rockers actually).

Anybody notice the missing parts? Somebody bit off more than they could chew.

Giving it hell? That was a sunday cruise if you ask me.

Is that Steven Colbert (spelling? pronounced col-bear) guy still in it? He'd get my vote. But I don't live there!

I hate D35s.

Not entirely true. Or apparently, from what I understand. With the GM style P/S boxes, they reach a certain point (which is iffy) and they automatically bypass the fluid to prevent stress on steering components. That can become iffy once you mess with the steering geometry (pitman arm, knuckles, etc) and the box may or may not bypass. However, typically it works out close enough and doesn't matter. And thus my hydro assist ram doesn't blow my knuckles off, despite it having 2" more travel than the rest of my steering. And FWIW, overheating a pump in such a manner (if it didn't bypass) is highly unlikely to me. That's a lot of sitting at the steering locks. And it'll probably hit 1200psi peak for a stocker. Which for short periods on such a pump is nothing. Yes, slow speed yarding it back and forth for soem time will overheat it...

Huh?

And jsut for the record, this is how I trimmed the front of my XJ... Image Not Found It had flares on it, hence there's holes...

Besides, having it my way it'd be trimemd more like this: Image Not Found

And I think we were sober.

They're 31x10.5s. That's a stock height XJ. Other than the sag and broken coil dropping it! Buddy showed up with it one day out of the blue and said "I've got mad rubbing, help me!" so we went to town. It's a rust bucket and had been in a couple accidents, so it wasn't like we were wasting time with the pretty BS.

It looks like he body is sill good... But I'm not exactly sober, so IDK.

I've never even drawn lines or masked it... Just get the angle grinder and give'r. Image Not Found That thing was a pile anyways, so we didn't even go for looking decent...

It's not worth it. Way too much money to change it. Buy a grand waggy diff if you want a LP D44.

Now I'm really drunk. :cheers: Stupid jager bombs. And it's a freaking tuesday. I think.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me) It's all terminology. I have one friend who refers to ALL axles as "rears," even when used in the front. And that's how the term "reverse rotation" came about. Put a rear diff in the front, and when the vehicle is going forward the ring gear spins in the reverse of the direction it would in the rear. Hence, "Reverse rotation." Obviously, if it's literally a rear axle that's flipped and put in the front, that also means the teeth are engaging on the "coast" side rather than the "drive" side. So the manufacturers started making "reverse cut" or "reverse bevel" gearsets so that gears rotating in the reverse direction would still be engaging on the strong side. High and low pinion actually are unrelated to direction of rotation. What happens, though, is if a rear is low pinion and you just put it in the front, it rotates in reverse. So then if you flip it over so the pinion sits high, it magically rotates in the correct direction again. Without reverse cut gears. Reverse bevel gears are necessary when using a low pinion axle in the front. At least, I think that's how it works. It's been awhile since I've thought about all that, so I may have gotten myself confused. Yes, high and low pinion having nothing to do with rotation. Hence nobody should call a HP axle reverse rotation. But I have no idea what you're talking about otherwise. I'm a little drunk. But I know this. Take a rear D44 and install it in the front of your truck and it'll drive the right direction (other than a few driveshaft and steering issues). Take a HP front D44 and throw it in the rear and it'll drive the right direction. It will however ride the 'wrong' (coast) side of the gears doing either of the above mention situations, given you're on the power moving the vehicle forewards. I have no idea if you're agreeing with me or not, or if I'm agreeing with you. Stupid cheap beer. And randy's website is retarded. Talk to dana. They call HP 'reverse crown'.

I did that one in a sheetmetal shear. And you aren't supposed to bleed it with the engine on, but as long as the pump doesn't run dry for a longer than a couple seconds it's fine.

Its HP. But please, no 'standard rotation' or 'reverse rotation' talk! It's just wrong! Reverse rotation axles actually drive the other direction, and there isn't many of them out there (think prior to 1950). Reverse cut, reverse crown, reverse spiral, high pinion, and HP are all commonly accepted terms and are at least reasonably correct. (sorry to rant, it just bugs me)

Crappy.

A 3/8 extension won't fit in it. So, I'd say no...

Too full doesn't seem to be a problem. I live on the assumption it'll explode sooner or later, and probably sooner at that, so why get caught up in the details? I lost a tooth or 5 off reverse the last time out, near as I can tell...