DirtyComanche

Not to mention it'd look like somebody butchered the property. We removed all the cottonwoods at our cabin - they were all at high risk of falling on the cabin or somebody mostly because they were cottonwoods - and accidently fell a couple of them on trees we wanted to keep. The place hasn't looked anywhere near as good since, and it's been maybe 5 years now.

So, remember this build? It's may now, so I lied a bit, but I am back at work on it. I removed this: Image Not Found The front hitch is actually off my dodge, I removed it a long time ago. It just got chucked there because that became the new unoffical scrap pile. Which is quite a bit larger now. Got the rear end back together enough that it rolls, stuck it in position to check my clearances and such... Image Not Found Then cut more junk off: Image Not Found Then I stuck the link x-member in place to check clearances and angles... Image Not Found Seems I had about an inch of driveshaft clearance, which would allow for about 2" of uptravel. And the suspension is actually at droop now since I plan to lower it so much. So no, that didn't work. Notice how the garage is a @#$%ing mess - I need to drink a bunch of beer and clean it all, but I'm in too much of a hurry. Changed the x-member: Image Not Found Clearance is way better. I also mounted it a hair higher as the truck is going to sit lower anyways. Anti-squat is probably still around 130%, I'm not worried. Links: Image Not Found RE larges are retarded to weld on. They seem to warp a bit and the threads don't work worth crap after that. I need to buy or make a spanner wrench for them too - I can set them tight with a punch and hammer but it's kinda hack. Anyways, I only have till saturday to work on it, then I'm back to work. I want to get the rear in decently so I can look at the front some more.

Amazingly enough, 'some' people (actually like 95% of the population) have no use for a 4wd vehicle. If he has no use for one, then lower away... I've seen F-150 coils cut down for the front, and a guy could build a hybrid leaf pack for the rear to lower it without (ugh) blocks. And XJ shackles will drop it a half inch in the rear too. Just watch the oil pan clearance in the front.

That'd be too logical. When dealing with women, logic is really not the answer. I'd say pewter, or sunset orange metallic... But I've never known what a girl really wants.

Seems where I've moved to there's nothing to will but mild stuff, and nobody to wheel with but mild guys. But I've got that damn jeep itch again. I think 33s and F/R lockers could probably tame anything here unless you deliberatly look for trouble (which I won't do without somebody crazy enough to follow me). And my truggy is highly impractical for anything but short trips. And MT/Rs don't wheel worth anything once there's a little mud on the ground. So, what to do? There's two different approaches that I can think of. Either downsize the MJ and rework it to try to suit the wheeling here, or buy an XJ and make a nice mild wheeler that I don't mind thrashing. To downsize/rework the MJ: Sell the 37s and go to 34s or 35s (depending what I can find I guess) in something like an IROK. I might *shudder* have to buy tires new for that. And lowering the truck a whole lot (I wanted to anyways, and was pretty much in the process of it. However I might have screwed myself on that since I planned to keep the 37s) I'll also need a second propane tank for enough comfortable range. Image Not Found I think I can run two of them vertically back there, and just mount them a little lower so they don't interfere with my rear viewing. That is, unless my 4-link truss is in the way. I don't recall if it is or not - and I'm 650kms from the truck right now. That still leaves me with limited space for any storage of gear. After all, my frame is cut off right before the second bed mount, and the old deck extends only to directly over the rear axle (or where it should be) The rear mount rad is in the way - but it can't really be changed. At most I can move it forewards a couple inches, but that's pushing it. At most I have maybe a foot behind the rad to stow stuff right now. Which isn't much. Especially if you plan to try camping or over-nigthing. And I should really have a spare for trail rides, the tube trick doesn't work so well for that. Oh, I have to swap my tranny too. I keep forgetting that. And I'm not really looking foreward to it. I'll have to change the belly skid, front and rear driveshafts, and a few other things for that. And I know I'll get killed on all the little stuff like the cooler lines and having to get a shift controller and the parts needed for it. Which is kinda why I considered going to the XJ for mild stuff. I know, another MJ would work just as well - but I don't want to ruin another. I figure it'd be easy enough to build a mild but reliable rig out of a XJ. I've got lots of parts after all. Swap a few axles, a tcase and rear driveshaft, build myself some new bumpers and skids and go wheeling. Stupid? I should stick with the MJ right? Probably... After all it's not like anything I need to do to change it is a real challenge. Just a bit of a headache.

The original rear bumper on my '88 XJ lasted 18 years. The replacement is barely two years old, hasn't seen anywhere near as much snow and salt, and is already rusted through the "chrome" plating on the top surface. It's got to be plated properly... The OEM peices are generally quite good. At least with the chrome door handles I can take them off without breaking them.

I like chrome a lot of the time, it cleans up a lot better with just a hose. And it doesn't rust. Ah how I hate rust.

Any clearance issues? Disty? Control arms?

Leaking through the HVAC stuff? I know YJs do that... And I think a MJ could.

Who made the motor mounts?

I think mine is easy enough to figure out. But I'm DirtyMJ on most boards. Which causes some confusion - apparently most people have no idea what a MJ is and assume I must be a pervert or something.

So that's what happened to Pat. Well, you gotta make money while you can.

I think you could do it then flush it out. But you've got to do a really good job of getting it off. I know when they dip cars/parts then normally pressure wash them like crazy afterwards to make sure they're completely clean. I'd probably spray it with zinc chromate afterwards.

If you leave it on there long term it will do bad things, AFAIK.

VIH (Vancouver Island Helicopters). Oil is up, so we're busy.

Mine got lots of looks. And a couple of 'nice chop' comments.

The truck needs more time than money. But it's all good, I'm going to start saving for a down payment on a house.

A pressure carb is those found in chainsaws and some lawnmowers and such. Fuel flow to the nozzle/jet is regulated by air pressure not float bowl fuel height. They can run at any angle (normally). It's sorta like mechanical fuel injection, but it still uses a venturi to provide fuel atomization - a major drawback. And no, I've never seen a pressure carb on a vehicle but if anybody did it it'd be the british. I've seen pressure carbs on aircraft engines though. However, they're crap.

Living at work or working constantly? I have to move out of here by the end of next week - and I HOPE I have a place. Working constantly will probably be for a couple more months then I'll be on rotation (yet to be decided, 3 weeks on 2 weeks off is most likely). Unless I take a base position, which might get offered. But I'm not conviced I want to - I'd not work as much (regular hours) but I'd also make a LOT less. I've been working mostly 12 hour days for the 20 on. Kinda leaves a guy burned out.

That's what I've been doing. It's nice. Now only if I didn't actually live at work (crew housing off the side of the hanger) it'd be even better.

And I'm probably going to be pretty quiet for a while. This was my first day off in about 20 days now. And I'm probably going to do another 2 weeks before I get any more time off.

Personally I'd sell the lock-wrong and use the cash to buy a real locker. But that's me.

These ones? http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... light=scca Search 'SCCA' and there's a few other threads.

Yes, you are... I've never actually seen one in person.

4mph would have been well within my margin of rounding, if you mean it works out to 120. I'd take your spreadsheet but lack excel. What formula do you use? If you don't have Excel, my spreadsheet ain't gonna help you. I originally developed it in Quattro Pro, but I long since migrated it over to Excel. Your formula isn't based on actual tire rolling radius. When I did up the spreadsheet I spent a lot of time with tire company brochures and web sites, finding the actual revolutions per mile for various tire sizes. Then I factored that in and created a speed-to-RPM chart for just about every tire size from 205/75-15 up through (IIRC) 33". Yeah, I knew I wasn't factoring in actual height or revs per mile. For my purposes it didn't matter. I was just wondering if there was a more fundamental flaw with my formula.