DirtyComanche

Usually scenes are shot out of order. From a production standpoint it is impossbile to do it any other way, unless you wish to devote a huge amount of time to it. As a side note, the movie 'cliffhanger' features a bell 205 helicopter as a search and rescue machine. There is a scene where it is wrecked, and winds up hanging off a cliff. The 'prop' for that scene is definatly not a bell 205, as I am rather intimate with them. Why? Well, the scenes would have been shot out of order (the movie was shot in a LOT of different locations) and a 205 is a pricey peice of equipment to wreck. Even a wrecked 205 to use as a prop is pricey. Which brings me to the movie terminator 2, which has a UH-1H airframe in the background in a couple scenes (as a wreck). They can do that because UH-1Hs aren't worth much, parts or whole, and it's a relatively high budget movie. Not to mention they never ruined the airframe (it actually looked better than some of the ones I've worked on or seen rebuilt, but it still looked like hel to the untrained eye). Okay, I got off topic.

I dunno much about boats... But I'm sure you can get the rivets for next to nothing. Aviation rivets are sold by the pound, and they're fairly inexpensive. And if it's inexpensive in aviation, it's dirt cheap in the sane world. If you have an air compressor and an air chisel, you just need to buy a rivet snap for the size of the rivets. Then get a nice peice of steel for a bucking bar (say 2"x2"x5" solid). Driving solid rivets is a little tricky, but it's not a big deal if they're in a boat. And put some sort of sealant on the rivets before driving them. Aircraft floats use a product called sika-flex. But I think a guy could get away with something more common, even 10 minute epoxy. And that said, I would probably try sealing the existing rivets before drilling them out and replacing them. Find some nice too part sealer (again, I'm willing to say 10 minute epoxy might work), scuff up the back side of the rivet and around it and smear a generous amount on. I'd not use silicone just because it isn't ment to seal the outside of things, just between them and thus isn't very robust.

Tried heating it up, then airchiseling in the direction of looseness? I have a little 'el cheapo oxy/mapp setup that can get most bolts/nuts glowing cherry in 30 seconds or so. Cost about $30 and takes the bernz-o-matic bottles. Generally if you get the nut glowing, it will have expanded enough that is is loose, and it'll break the rust bonding free at the same time.

Find a good machine shop and they can get you the 12.9 stuff, and quite possibly even stock it... So, how did you get that bolt out that has the sleeve seized on it?

Just rum? I'm not much of a rum drinker after the last time I had it. We were wheeling in the coast mountains, camping in some hell hole of a campsite nicknamed 'little iraq' for all the empty munitions on the ground, it rained every day, and I drank 26oz of cpt morgans and wound up having a LONG next day since 9 or so of the 12 rigs carnaged major parts. So, not big on rum anymore.

I'm going to have to pick up all the products mentioned in this thread... I moved about 9 months ago. Stayed in one place (what is truely northern BC) for 4 months, and it was totally different than where I used to live. Then moved a bit south of there, where is technically my home address but I travel constantly for work. My tours are 2-4 weeks long, and always in random places. Last time was at the coast. And I generally get a week or more off after a tour and go 'home' to where I used to live. So yeah, I think I'm probably leaving my body guessing at every corner...

Anybody have problems with pollen or such? I live in a mill town. Pulp, paper, plywood, regular lumber... And there's a lot of pollen too. It's driving me nuts. Even when I was on my last tour, in a totally different climate/town/area, I was still reacting. Stuffs me up and makes my eyes itch. Anybody have any luck taking anything to deal with it?

I think they're all like that.

I use carpet cleaner... Comes in a rattle can or as a two-part liquid.

Definatly not. Oh, before you spend big bucks on a CAI of some sort - I'd suggest building one yourself.

So, ya see, it's just easier to change all the crappy OEM lugs out to better ones sometime before this happens.

No.

Scam.

I did something like bucket seats, new deck, fog lights, then lift/tire/rearend/repaint/flatdeck/yada yada. That was awhile ago.

This is not centimeters different... This looks like about .010. Like I said still haven't got the belt on... Went drinking, I mean camping, instead. But visually it looked fine other than the .010~ or so. Might be the wrong one. And I know it's supposed to be reverse. It has no 'R' as it is some BS new (non-reman) pump from china or some BS. But the impeller direction matches the old one, so it's right in that aspect at least. Hmm. So I guess I'll put the belt on and see if it's FUBAR. I don't have my calipers here to compare measurements to my other pumps.

Can't be.

I have the correct pulley. The MJ is right next to it, and it's really easy to read the part number without a rad/grille in the way. Now, as to if it's the correct pump... Well. I'll tell you a story. I entered the parts store, full of dread, as it was a sunday, nobody intelligent would be working. And boy was I right. The parts 'girl' was actually kinda cute. But obviously dumb. I request a waterpump for a 90 cherokee. To which she replied "What's that?". I wasn't sure if she didn't know what a waterpump was, or what a cherokee was. Luckily she clarified before I tried to explain how a waterpump pumps water... So, after we established that a cherokee is in fact a jeep, and that they made millions of them over a 17ish year production run, she then had to find somebody to help her look up the part. The pain didn't end there. However, it looks identical to the one that came off, the impeller is the right way (I checked that, because it did not have reverse stamped on it obviously). It bolted on fine. Other than this. I haven't put the belt on yet, I was going to wait for a lower rad hose.

I hate the stock lug-nuts. Maybe they hold together for some people, but they really don't whenever I've seen them. I always remove the caps before attempting to pull them. Usually it doesn't end well and I wind up with at least one that needs either to have a socket sacrificed, or to be removed with the torch. Actually, a little oxy-mapp setup (you an get them for about $30) does wonders if they're incredibly seized on - that is before you strip them off. Which I've done multiple times with the correct sized socket.

So, I changed the water pump in the cherry. Mostly. I'm missing a lower rad hose as it turned out to be pooched. Anyways, while installing the old pulley onto the new pump, I gave it a quick test spin (by hand). Wouldn't move. Hmm. Pulley was rubbing on the pump housing rather seriously. Looked at the old pump housing - had a big groove cut in it from the pulley. However, that pump had so much play it might be simply from the pulley wobbling around. Anyways, looked at the MJ and I couldn't tell with the belt still on it... So is it normal for there to be a -.010 clearance between the pulley and pump? I epoxied some washers to the back of the pulley to space it out, but making sure that it still engaged the hub - keeping it centred. :nuts:

I've always bought yukons. Yukon makes the OEM gearsets for Dana now, apparently... So that's got to be worth something.

That sounds promising. It's not like I'm going for show quality.

It appeared square on the bottom. But I haven't been under it yet. And it wasn't hit in the front. It has the stock header panel, and the fenders haven't been off that I can tell. Wasn't hit in the rear either, near as I can tell. It has an impact mark at the top of the door where it is creased, at least it looks like that. There's cracking inside the door frame (I can fix that). It's hard to say how bad the whole pillar is shifted in, or if it really is even. I think I'm going to tape measure it a bunch. The rood is definatly not all level though. I think I'll tear the interior out too and see what else I find. It's probably a write off, and I should just part it... But we'll see.

Oh yeah, I guess this is tech. I was going to ask if/how you think I can fix that? THink I can pop it out a bit from the other side? Or is it too far crunched?

So, this is my cheap jeep... The one I bought sight unseen... Anyways, it has some mysterious body damage. I'm going to have to ask the PO how she managed to do this. Anyways, so... Looks alright from this side: Image Not Found Umm Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found So, I guess it took a hit at the B piller, near the top... I have no idea how. The door is bent, the pillar is bent in a bit, and the roof is all punched up.

As far as I know. I use it a lot. It's an easy way to not commit to an answer. Even with a simple question.