DirtyComanche

Scam.

I did something like bucket seats, new deck, fog lights, then lift/tire/rearend/repaint/flatdeck/yada yada. That was awhile ago.

This is not centimeters different... This looks like about .010. Like I said still haven't got the belt on... Went drinking, I mean camping, instead. But visually it looked fine other than the .010~ or so. Might be the wrong one. And I know it's supposed to be reverse. It has no 'R' as it is some BS new (non-reman) pump from china or some BS. But the impeller direction matches the old one, so it's right in that aspect at least. Hmm. So I guess I'll put the belt on and see if it's FUBAR. I don't have my calipers here to compare measurements to my other pumps.

Can't be.

I have the correct pulley. The MJ is right next to it, and it's really easy to read the part number without a rad/grille in the way. Now, as to if it's the correct pump... Well. I'll tell you a story. I entered the parts store, full of dread, as it was a sunday, nobody intelligent would be working. And boy was I right. The parts 'girl' was actually kinda cute. But obviously dumb. I request a waterpump for a 90 cherokee. To which she replied "What's that?". I wasn't sure if she didn't know what a waterpump was, or what a cherokee was. Luckily she clarified before I tried to explain how a waterpump pumps water... So, after we established that a cherokee is in fact a jeep, and that they made millions of them over a 17ish year production run, she then had to find somebody to help her look up the part. The pain didn't end there. However, it looks identical to the one that came off, the impeller is the right way (I checked that, because it did not have reverse stamped on it obviously). It bolted on fine. Other than this. I haven't put the belt on yet, I was going to wait for a lower rad hose.

I hate the stock lug-nuts. Maybe they hold together for some people, but they really don't whenever I've seen them. I always remove the caps before attempting to pull them. Usually it doesn't end well and I wind up with at least one that needs either to have a socket sacrificed, or to be removed with the torch. Actually, a little oxy-mapp setup (you an get them for about $30) does wonders if they're incredibly seized on - that is before you strip them off. Which I've done multiple times with the correct sized socket.

So, I changed the water pump in the cherry. Mostly. I'm missing a lower rad hose as it turned out to be pooched. Anyways, while installing the old pulley onto the new pump, I gave it a quick test spin (by hand). Wouldn't move. Hmm. Pulley was rubbing on the pump housing rather seriously. Looked at the old pump housing - had a big groove cut in it from the pulley. However, that pump had so much play it might be simply from the pulley wobbling around. Anyways, looked at the MJ and I couldn't tell with the belt still on it... So is it normal for there to be a -.010 clearance between the pulley and pump? I epoxied some washers to the back of the pulley to space it out, but making sure that it still engaged the hub - keeping it centred. :nuts:

I've always bought yukons. Yukon makes the OEM gearsets for Dana now, apparently... So that's got to be worth something.

That sounds promising. It's not like I'm going for show quality.

It appeared square on the bottom. But I haven't been under it yet. And it wasn't hit in the front. It has the stock header panel, and the fenders haven't been off that I can tell. Wasn't hit in the rear either, near as I can tell. It has an impact mark at the top of the door where it is creased, at least it looks like that. There's cracking inside the door frame (I can fix that). It's hard to say how bad the whole pillar is shifted in, or if it really is even. I think I'm going to tape measure it a bunch. The rood is definatly not all level though. I think I'll tear the interior out too and see what else I find. It's probably a write off, and I should just part it... But we'll see.

Oh yeah, I guess this is tech. I was going to ask if/how you think I can fix that? THink I can pop it out a bit from the other side? Or is it too far crunched?

So, this is my cheap jeep... The one I bought sight unseen... Anyways, it has some mysterious body damage. I'm going to have to ask the PO how she managed to do this. Anyways, so... Looks alright from this side: Image Not Found Umm Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found So, I guess it took a hit at the B piller, near the top... I have no idea how. The door is bent, the pillar is bent in a bit, and the roof is all punched up.

As far as I know. I use it a lot. It's an easy way to not commit to an answer. Even with a simple question.

Nope, not if they're Chinese. They'll either bind up, break apart, lose compression, get stuck, stop flexing, lock up, or worst of all, the damn paint will start fading and you'll die from lead poisoning. Yes, I have officialy banned the buying of Chinese products in my country. Come and get me Triads. Just say no to Chinese parts. Vote Chico 2012 or maybe 2016, depending on when the cut off date for legally running for president is. Amusingly enough, we have an engine hoist at work that is powerfist (chinese, same as HF). We use it for pulling engines out of A-stars in the field by putting it in the back of a truck to get enough height... A-Star engine - $500 000 or so. A core is worth $50 000. Engine Hoist - $139.99 special at PA. Hmm. It hasn't failed YET.

If I Remember Correctly. AFAIK.

I did my old 35s with lead BBs. It was nice and smooth... They were used/beat tires, but they seemed to be wearing fine. Until I siped them, then promptly I tore a lot of tread off them. In big chunks. Fuel milage, who knows, doubt it changed anything. It was 8oz of lead rattling around vs 8oz of stick-on weights, basically... I'd do it again. But I didn't do it on my turdysevens - I never bothered to balance them at all.

I find it VERY suprising that they'd do that. How much did they charge you? If you balance them that way it takes no time on the balancer, and hence they should not charge you much (if anything) for the balancing, other than the cost of the beads (whatever they used).

Those front shackles will be fodder. And with leafs the problem is often the steering. I know, you can go high steer and solve some of those problems. But you can often still have issues with the pitman arm/DRE contacting the TR, or a leaf spring... If you can fit leafs, you can fit a 3-link with acceptable geometry. At least, much better than the leaf springs. Oh, and a leaf sprung front will always have some bumpsteer at high speeds (unless you run full hydro or a panhard bar). Sometimes it's nice to be able to go fast through the bumps. And with those outboarded springs, can the steering travel to full lock? I'd say I doubt it, but 60's don't turn very sharp normally.

I'll stick to coils and longarms, Never ever had death wobble. The moment you go to long arms, you don't have a stock setup any more. For the actual amount of work a front leaf conversion is, a guy could build some radius arms. I'm not big on radius arms, but they're better than front leafs. And a front leaf setup can deathwobble too. If you don't believe me, go talk to some YJ/SJ/CJ owners, a lot of them will complain of 'less than ideal' driving characteristics. And the front (stock) parallel 4-link can easily be stopped from deathwobbling. You just have to make sure everything is in proper working order - it's not like they wobbled from the factory.

And provide less flex steer, proper AS (more traction), a better roll centre (more stability) and NO axle wrap. Build it right and it will work better... Build it wrong and it'll be a pile.

What's this SEM plastic prep?

I might need to get armorall off some plastic... How? What takes it off without really screwing things up?

If I'm on the highway I'm fine, but throw me in traffic and I stop paying attention to one or the other. The problem is though, on the highway my dodge is so loud that I can't hear anything...

Here's some wet kitty: Image Not Found That's my parents psycho cat. She's got similar markings to that kitten, not that you can really tell.

That's pretty cool! You should see some of the fish that are out where I'm on tour... We're providing helicopter services to fishing lodges on the Queen Charlotte islands. A guy last week got a 154lb halibut! And there's been some salmon in the 60 to 70lb range! But the guests are paying over 1000 a day, so I guess they'd better get something good!