DirtyComanche

I wouldn't call them rare yet, as some people would like you to believe. They'll get there soon enough though.

I'm with Pete on thinking they aren't lowered. They don't look it even with the body kit on it - the kit just hangs down. If I had one I'd wheel it. Am I evil? No, I'm joking, I'd sell it as I don't like the look and can't bother myself with collectables. If I wanted a street jeep, it'd be of my own concockting.

I'd use zinc chromate as a primer, if you can find it (probably not, seems it's been outlawed). It sticks to aluminum way better than other primers, and seals really well.

I like the propane, but it does not drive like the EFI does. My throttle bushings are wack (leaking), which is at least part of the problem. I have a new throttle plate on order to fix it. Otherwise I'm happy with it. It does what I expected. I don't know much about the self adjusters on these things, my cable doesn't have one. I think it was cut off when the tranny was pulled. I will have to get another one. I think I'll also look at the bracket design and try to figure out the pull ratio...

:nuts: My post had more words.

To me a monkey wrench is a crescent wrench is an adjustable wrench. Crescent wrench makes no sense, I actually have a set of crescent wrenches somewhere and they are crescent shaped, they're for accessing bolts put in retarded places (behind things) by the engineers who dreamed up the design for whatever I'm working on. Stilson was the guy who invented the pipe wrench. But I've only ever heard it called a pipe wrench... I think.

Hmm, I'm going to have to start calling a pipe wrench that - I've NEVER heard it before. Is it a demographic thing?

I need to hook one up to my throttle assembly... Lacking an automatic XJ to look at and understand the intended operation of the cable, I'm wondering if anybody can describe it to me? I'm assuming that as the throttle cable is pulled (throttle opened) the TV cable should be pulled too. Now is that an equal ratio? Or is it rigged at a different ratio to the throttle? Is there anything else about the operation that I need to know? I'm assuming you should set it up as slack (barely) at throttle closed? Think I know what I'm doing? Because I don't. I'm going to start reading my FSM (if I can find it) to see if it answer my questions too. For those who forget/don't know, I run propane and do NOT have a throttle body like you'd typically see. It's actually a 4bbl setup off the typical holley 650cfm carb. Also, anyone run a AWshifting setup? What are you using for a switch? I was just going to use a momentary rocker, but I can see that going downhill. I might need something taller and more stick like, but I am undecided.

Ya might want to spray some penetrating oil or such on the bolts a while before trying to pull them. If you live anywhere that stuff rusts, they'll probably be rather tight.

I'd buy them new from summit if I lived in the states. I never have great luck with used rims, they always seem to wind up less than ideal and they're always rusty. Summit sometimes does promotions on stuff and will offer free shipping or other jazz. Or if you can find a similar wheel cheaper, go for it. But basically I'd not bother with used unless you have way more time than money.

Congrats.

Yup.

I don't think they use the same alternator, so I figured there might be differences. Anyways, good to know. Thanks. I can continue to plan my insanity.

Are they the same? Since I bought a HO cherokee (still sight unseen, I get it in a month when I'm off tour) and it has a bad serpentine belt, I'm thinking I might as well relocate the alternator to where to AC compressor is normally. I know how to do it on a renix, but I'm not sure if it works on a HO. Unless it turns out the cherokee has AC, in which case I'll probably just use it as a compressor. Similar? Totally different?

Okay, say it that way. :nuts:

That's where they normally break. Threads are a great stress riser. The TRE is way to small for the application... Result, it cracks through the threads and breaks eventually. I think he might use cheap TREs too, but heck if I know... XJ/MJ track bars are often really hokey because the aftermarket copies the basic design of the stock peice. Without changing the bracket at both ends and really thinking about clearances you can't fit large enough components in there to realistically not expect an eventual failure.

I've seen pictures of rusty's control arms do that too... His trackbar is really just all bad. I've seen the bracket fail too.

Diesel jumped in price here again. I'm considering selling my dodge cummins. Now isn't the time for a diesel swap, IMHO. Otherwise it'd be cool. (It now costs me about $200 to fill the dodge, maybe more. Which gets me about 1000-1200km without towing anything and having the truck totally unloaded. Diesel is going up in price faster than gas too)

I'm suprised how many of you have actually done it, I guess that's what happens when you live in a country with such a large military? Getting poked sucked, but as long as everyone bends over the tails and you work carefulley you won't be too often. Same thing happens with cotter pins if guys don't bend them over well, and trim the ends to the right length - if they're done the helicopter style (which isn't approved on aircraft, ohwell) you rarely get hurt even when you have your whole arm in some dark hole. And for a simple explaination of what it is... The bolt heads, fitting, screws, etc, all have holes drilled through then in places such that a peice of thin stainless (or monel or brass) wire can be slid through them. A peice of wire is started in one bolt head, pulled tight, and twisted to the next bolt head. The trick is the wire enters/exits the head in a manner that if one of the bolts is to turn to loosen it will pull the wire tighter which will pull the other bolt to be tighter. That way nothing can move very far. Removal is easy, just cut the wire and pull it out with duckbills/pliers. The biggest problem is that you either have to buy drilled head bolts, or drill your own. Drilling your own wouldn't ever appeal to me, I don't have that type of time. AN, NAS, MS, etc hardware (the real stuff) is all avaliable with drilled heads and threads. However, it is expensive. Anyways, I like it. Which is good since I deal with it every day.

TNT, have you test stuffed the suspension with the front cut like that? Does it allow for much more uptravel?

I don't actually have twisters, just duckbills and side cutters. I've wanted to buy twisters but haven't got around to it (strap-on wants about $200 for the reversibles). It makes it a little harder to do long distances, but it still works fine.

Eagle, 99.975% of the time you're right, but this time you're wrong. The comanche I have owned for a large part of my life had the 'Sportruck' decals, and I remember them vividly. After all it was the tail of them that I destoryed after my encounter with a fence - which had a lot of spectators as it was within a block of my high school at the time.

The thing with it is that, once you're good at it, it's so fast that it's hard to not justify using it. And I hate the thought of random bolts backing out on me.

Ah, opinion. I'd not put them on. I think they look a little too 80's for me.

Up to you. Do you like the look?