DirtyComanche

If you go LT1... Plan on running a chevy tranny. I'd say built 700R4 for the money (spend $1000 on it at least, or it won't hold up to real world use). You can mate most common tcases to them (the 231 and 241 bing the typical choice) without spending big bucks. A friend of mine has one in his YJ. Well, had. It's actually still physically in the YJ, but it had an issue with a rod bearing, so it doesn't exactly run... Anyways, it's a good engine and the wiring harness is easy to work with. If you have the stock harness, it's pretty easy to wire into any other vehicle. Espeically a jeep as they run a GM colum. The opti-spark will commit suicide if exposed to water. MSD makes an upgraded dist. for it that solves MOST of that, IIRC it's about $600. You'll probably want some block-hugger headers, or the oldschool vett cast headers - or you will have clearance issues. You'll want a fuel pump out of a GM truck with a vortec V8 to provide enough fuel for it (the camaro ones are over-priced but the exact same part). You'll also need some serious radiator as they make a lot of heat. The stock camaro one is hard to work with as it has to be mounted at a layed back angle or it won't flow right (or so it seems). However, a large enough aftermarket radiator should be found. Make sure you do this right - heat will kill these engines. You'll want it to be aluminum, and 3-core. Also, the P/S pump on these engines sucks (it's not for a truck...) and you can't really change it (other than PSC's pump). Dunno what else to say. They're tough engines. His had sucked mud and water a bunch of times, and been run at over 280* at least 7 times, and it had about 100K on it when he got it. Not to mention being run on its side without oil pressure more than once... Which was what finially did it in, well, along with a pegged temperature gauge. Edit... You might consider a rear mount rad. If you're racing it, that shouldn't be a problem. I run one and am happy with it. It's an easy enough thing to do if you have sorces for the needed parts.

I can get another set of XJ coils if I have too. I picked up the TJ fronts today. And buddy still had my ZJ fronts lying there - I can take them back if I need them. However, the TJ ones look liek they'll be really close. Dunno. Might have to play around with getting the actual weight on them to see. But I can do the math first. And I'd make my mounts adjustable, but that always comes out hack unless you have a lathe to cut threads (like the ACOS have). I do have access to a lathe, but I'm not into bothering. I'll just tack everthing on the first time and see. On another note, my truck sits way higher in the front. I'd better figure out how to link it too.

I don't think any came with vent windows. Eagle would know. However, the vent triangles from the XJ are a direct swap. Long as it doesn't rain too much where you are - they get kinda leaky. Line locks are good... Unless they leak.

No. They're $45 out the door for me. The JJs are more though. $65 and tax. Whatever. They have a shank and come with a jam nut (for that price).

The TJ coils should be lighterish, sorta. The ZJ coils used to be mine - they're rather heavy. I was going to run the math on their rate when I got them back. See where they sit. I think the TJs are only 170~, but IDK. The stock XJ fronts would probably have worked great. Too bad I gave away my set of those too. Too bad I don't have more space for crap. I could horde all my parts forever.

Oh, you might want to think about the parking brakes a bit too. I think you can use the MJ cables, but I wouldn't know.

Canada is all one province? :nuts: Nobody ever told me! Just messing.

Yup. Companion flange is on the rear of the driveshaft. Bolts to the pinion flange (hence it's the pinion flange's 'companion')

THe 3.73 down carrier thing is actually talking about something odd about these axles. They're talking about the gear carrier (holds the ring gear), which is ment for 3.73 and numerically lower gears (ie, higher gears). Isuzu had special 'thick' ring gears made so they could put the 4.30 gears on a carrier that was not ment for them. It's not an issue as you can buy the thick gears or swap the carrier for a normal one in the event you want to regrear. You were thinking about pinion height... It's the same as any low pinion D44. And I won't comment on if 4.30 gears will work for you or not. I don't know. I'd need more details on your truck and intended usage. MJ spring perches are 42" centre-centre. SUA.

Flange: It comes stock with a rather strange pinion flange. It is only common to isuzu as far as I know. A pinion yoke from any other D44 or like design can be swapped on it. Or you can run the isuzu flange with the rodeo companion flange that has a spicer 1310 joint. That's the better route as the dana yokes typically suck. Disks shouldn't cause issues. You'll need to make new brake lines on the axle. The bolt pattern is 6x5.5. IT won't match the front. If you're 2wd you can run different rims and it's no big deal... Otherwise you can't do much. Oh, the driveshaft will be off... The D44 pinion is a bit longer. IF you use the dana yoke instead of the isuzu flange, it'd probably be close enough to work. And it'll be .5" wider than the front axle.

The funky flange is stronger though. You just need to know where to find the companion flange that takes a 1310 joint. But yeah... Another thread for this would be good?

Sure. It's probably 61" wide (or 58.5 like the 12Bs, you'd better check) but it's darn near the same width as the stock axle. Change the pinion flange, or get the companion flange with it...

Guess I coulda said triangulated 3-link with panhard... Two lower links on a slight angle, one upper on a bit more angle, one nice long panhard bar. I tink I'd have to recess the lower arm mounts into my 'frame' for it to work.

Well, if it was gonna go, it was probably going to be then. There's some pretty mad shock loading when they launch.

That's pretty rad....

They work good as long as you aren't trying to do anything too stupid, and as long as you aren't crazy on the skinny. The ford design is at least proven road-safe, which is better than some of the aftermarket kits out there... I'm tempted to build a set, but if I can figure out a 3-link I'd rather go that route.

Hardcore wheeler... I'd get one without a motor.

I have a set of stock TJ rears. They definatly don't work. I'll pick up some ZJ fronts and TJ fronts within the week... One of them might work. Jared, measure the JK ones if you have a chance... Free length, coil thickness, number of coils, coil width... I can figure them out with that much.

Not quite. I could whip up radius arms really easily. They're god damn simple. Unfortunatly the people I wheel with would probably laugh at me.

ANybody have a bunch of pics/info on the 3-link fronts? I can't fingure out how to fit one on mine. (maybe I'm not trying hard enough?)

You'd be suprised... They're LONG, and it makes them work. Image Not Found That's not flexed right out... I can pull a couple more inches out of them. Ohyeah... XJ spring perches are 43.5" centre-centre, MJ are 42".

Dual triangulated... The space is there. Rear panhards suck balls anyways, unless you have rear steer. Even then they aren't great.

I've modelled a rear 4-link... I don't know how it'll be just yet. I've hammered out a design for the crossmember and brackets on that side, a rough idea on the brackets for the axle, a firm idea for my upper coil mounts, and a decent idea on the actual arms design (just plain tube is too boring). I'm going to use RE larges at the frame side and Currie JJs at the axle end for adjustability. Maybe, I get quoted tomorrow. The numbers I came up with are: Link length: Upper:39.1 Lower:37.1 Which is funky. Normally you do it the other way, but that doesn't fit too well. Anti-Squat 131.02% RC Slope 0.0320 in / in RC Height 27.093 in RC Angle 1.8349 degrees It's a little whack as I don't have the CG correct (I know that for sure). I can get the AS down to about 125% with a single adjustment, but I think I'll set my mid-point for it at 131%. I could drop the lowers some more at the frame end and get it down to about 100%, but I don't like where they'll mount then - unless I make them way longer. In which case I think they'll get bent. I dunno. Figure it'll work okay... Maybe. Haven't a clue actually.

Dealer CPS is over $100 here. Aftermarket is about $50. It's really sweet. Of course, I have a perferctly functioning CPS attached to my bell-housing. And it doesn't do anything :nuts: Too bad I bought a new one when I did.

Dexon/Mercon III as per the manual. The tcases don't care though, incase anybody wonders.