DirtyComanche

A guy can put disk brakes on those axles for cheap. Something to do with a crown vic...

It's either a bad gauge, a bad lead, or a bad ground. That cluster is such that I'd just assume it's the guage since it's really hard for any other part of it to go bad without there being other problems. Get one from the boneyard.

You ain't gonna see 20mpg from a carbed v8. I dun think. Vortec EFI, yeah, probably. LS1, yup. So, I wouldn't buy it with milage in mind.

I thought that was kinda f'd too. But I figured I was just having an acid flashback or something :nuts:

Good idea. The stock x-members like to tear apart if you get them caught.

I'd not have dropped the tcase unless somebody held a gun to my head and told me to. Even then I think I'd rather die than see my belly that low. Just incase you're wondering how I feel about the subject. Image Not Found

Okay, dead booster works for me. I'll have to go get an E350 master and some random booster...

Does that makes sense? I don't know how vacuum brakes work. But I'd assume if the feed line for it leaked, I'd have a high idle unless I was on the pedal? :dunno: The line could use a hose clamp on the one end.

I want to say brake booster. Anybody else?

What are you selling? Whose parts? I'd love to see a 'long arm' lift kit that was actually a 3-link and actually came with decent joints. And had arms made of decent material. And was welding at least acceptably. And had an intelligent belly skid and crossmember design. IE, so I don't have to f' with my suspension to pull my transfer case, since I do that a lot more than I should. I'd love to see options on the coils, or better yet coils that were actually rate matched to a SOA MJ rear. I'd like to see it come with limit straps. I don't care about shocks, but many people do. And I hate disconnects, but most people run them. Brake lines that are actually matched to the lift would be great (as an option). What's your x-over steering look like? I guess I could look myself...

I have a cheap winch. Never again. I'm working on a guy with an 8274 right now.

Well, I took out the rear grommet, blocked it and installed it in the front location, then put the front one in the rear with a K&N filter on it. Sadly my breather has a better filter than my engine... Anyways, fired it up and ran it a bit. The whole freaking motor was smoking, apparently because I disturbed the grease. But mostly it was smoking out of the vent. A massive blue cloud. Filled up my whole shop. But after it got hot most of the smoking in various locations stopped. I say most. It's running way rich too, I think. I'm not quite sure. So there's other issues.

Eh. Sell the TJ. You can buy a MJ or two, plus have a bunch left over for parts.

I think I'm going to seal the front one, but use the boot from it on the rear, and then just run a filter off it. If it gets gross, I'll do somehting else. And I know it would explode if I sealed it. But the guy at the auto parts store said I could seal both of them, and I was kinda thinking "umm". Then I told him I though the valve cover would lift off and spary oil everywhere and he agreed that might be a possibility.

So, say you just seal up the stupid holes in the valve cover... What will explode? On the same page, is there any reason why you can't block one of them, but vent the other?

Yeah, it wasn't yet at that point. I don't have a rad cap, and there isn't actually any coolant in the entire thing. And I need to set the idle a little better - it would only run with the throttle cracked. I can get a clip then, I found my camera. I'm also hooped on my tach. I can't seem to find the connector for the tach output on a GM HEI. And my power connector for it is about 30 years old and rotten. I might have to try the auto parts store again. And my PCV is messed. Gotta take in the boots tomorrow and try to get something to work.

I ran it for 15 seconds. It sounds gnarly.

I made a cone filter setup with a peice of plastic pipe the right size with some fittings in it for the random PCV crap. It worked. Flowed way better. Then it fell off. But yeah, you can. One of the lines control the flapper thing in the front of it (designed to pull warm air from the header, for no apparent reason) and can just be thrown out. 2 larger ones are PCV or evap. And there might be another smaller one for some reason or other.

You can fudge on it though. A stock 4-oh header isn't too bad in the flow department. I think a guy can use the HO ones which are a little better, just they lack EGR. IMHO, you'd see more performance in the exhaust side by port matching the head than changing the header. The rest of the exhaust might be worth 'improving' though. However, I know little about the cam choices for a 4.0.

I actually have to agree on the side mount spare. IMHO it isn't the BEST location, but it sure beats being under the truck. Or in the case of many SUVs, under the cargo area in the back. There's been a few times where I've changed a tire (or helped) that it was made far less enjoyable by it being hard to access the spare. A rear mount on the tailgate would be great if they could swing it. Unfortunatly production vehicles often have a lot of things done to them more for 'styling' than function. So, I'd imagine that unless there was a large favorable reaction to it being side mounted (or anywhere else readily visible) it would be far more likely to be stuffed under the bed or somewhere else fun. In this day and age, it seems everybody would rather call a tow truck than change a tire. And ditto on the truck being a truck thing. A truck has to have the bed detached from the cab, IMHO. I'm not a fan of the ridgeline for many reason, and the unitized everything body is one of them. That won't last during 'real' use. In all fairness to Jeep/DCX/Whoever owns them now, I am not what they would consider a target customer. The newest vehicle I have ever owned is my dodge, a 94. And I don't look at new vehicles with ANY intention of buying them. And certainly not with the intention of wheeling or modifying them. I get chicken enough playing with things on my dodge. Hence, my opinon on what they do or sell is really void, as it won't make them any money. And similar can be said of a lot of people who do not like the turn the jeep brand has taken. And you have to remember how unhappy everyone was when the cherokee came out. It was unibody! ACK! Or even the YJ with its 'square headlights'. A buddy of mine still gets flak for that. And there's those 'old timers' who thought the CJ5 was way too luxary, and that real jeeps had the gas tank under their seat. Things change.

That grille would be f'ing badass on my MJ. Which gives me a bad idea actually. I might be able to get my dirty little paws on one. Uh-oh.

Oh, and while I'm at it, I want a period accurate willy's pick-up on the assembly line. They're cool too.2

Over-priced SUVs are a statement. They'll always sell. I hate almost all of the new jeeps. Really. Even my mom's WJ is sadly lacking off-road (it could be fixed at least). And it's all been down hill from there. Compass ugh. Liberty ugh. Commander, hmm, I've actually ment to test drive one but I'm not welcome at the dealership. Off-road it would still be ugh. JK or whatever it is (new wrangler) - looks decent. I checked one out pretty good because a friend bought one. It has promise. The little 3.8L V6 (or whatever it is) actually seemed to be alright. If I had it my way, jeep would be producing period accurate CJ2As. Period accurate as in EXACTLY how they'd have come at the time. @#$% safety standards, I'd rock one as a DD. I actually like a lot of the gladiator concept. It could have been better, but close enough. They should get in bed with cummins and put 4BTs and 6BTs in everything. The mechanical ones. While they're at it, they should come up with an aluminum block and head for those things. That'd be cool.

The avaliable trannies aren't great either. Do the 4.0 swap with a matching AW4. Life will be much better.

I'd bet money that the bed is shot. They have a bad habit of rusting like that. When you pull off the flares there will be pretty much nothing left. The front fenders might be kinda icky under the flares too. Luckily they're easy to get. The doors look like they can be saved. The cab looks alright, you will probably have to mess with the rockers a bit to clean them up. The floors might be icky too, but they're an 'easy' fix.