DirtyComanche

Got a pic of the front axle...? 'Cuase if it has a D44 front, that'd be interesting.

Actually, I couldn't find any of my posts either. If you want to do something really cool, get a buick 4.1 and mate it to an AW4. I think I know how to make it work, but don't feel like buying the parts and having it not work.

Well, the docotor put me on some 'great' meds to try and fix a chronic sinus infection. So this entire week seems to be pretty pathetic. Basically, in the last two days I managed to determine that the HEI distributor I had lying around was only good for a core. It has some sort of problem, in that when it spins, well it really doesn't spin actually. So yeah, that's a problem. I'm just going to buy a whole new unit, if I can. New as in it comes in a box and has a warantee. Might be a little more reliable that way. I hope. I cut my hood again. I think it looks sweet. Maybe I'll bend some tube this weekend, if I'm not feeling so lousy.

Okay, okay... I don't have a pic. Weld the spiders to the side gears. Weld the side gears to the case. Weld the spider gears to the case. Make sure the weld is good and thick, you want as much mass in there as possible or it is more likely something will break. It's unfortunate that it is a c-clip axle, otherwise you can take a peice of FB and weld that inside the carrier too, then just keep making passes across the carrier until it is entirely full of weld. Don't weld the centre pin. Don't weld the axleshafts, gearset, bearing, and all the other 'duh' parts.

Interesting.

I think pong has an XJ with one in it. I've made some posts/discussion about it. I looked into it and seriously considered it. As in I was about 10 minutes of work away from buying an engine (still don't know how I was going to get it in the back of the XJ though). I can't remember a lot of the specifics, but you'll need to buy/fab motor mounts, a tranny mount/crossmember and do a bit of work with the fuel/electrical and exhaust. The early 700R4s are horrible, luckily they've all blown up by now and been rebuilt. A lot of the S-10s came with NP231s or NP233s. The NP233 is just an electrically shifted 231, and can be made to work. I'd personally avoid it however. And NP231J (jeep) will fit in a NP231C (chevy). They're actually basically the same, other than they came with different input gears, and some chevy stuff was wide chain/6 planet reduction. I think the output yokes are different, but they can be swapped. Chevy does clock their tcases different though. You might need to do some cutting of the floor.

Weld everything but the axleshafts. Well, that might not be a good idea if it's a c-clip axle.

I need one of those clamp sets. I have a cross-slide setup like that HF one. I find I don't use it too often. It is useful for some things though.

Now people suck worse at selecting a suitable partner (to marry), than they ever did. Or maybe it's just that divorce is so socially acceptable now :nuts:

Or the sender is fuct.

Stop the suspense. Just drop the pan and get the numbers off the crank or measure the stroke. Or pull the head an measure the stroke.

Good call on getting me to look under the hood of ZJs. Those throttle cables are about 2 feet longer than a MJ one. I cut it down to size and stuck a bracket on it (not perfect yet) and gave the throttle a test. I get WOT nicely, and it closes up once you get off it. More updates to come. If I do more work on it today (its freaking hot...).

What are you going to sell? I don't have any aftermarket parts on my truck.

Wouldn't worry. I buried my temp gauge, then it built so much pressure it blew the block heater out of the block... The engine quit running about 30 seconds after that. Figured I'd let it cool off. I still run that motor in my MJ.

I can't help you. They aren't something I'm framiliar with. But, I'd get some junkyard parts and see if anything matches. The spindle in that kit is custom. But it stands to reason that they'd use the parts from something else for the rest of it to save money and really maximize profits. And yeah, unit bearings without a stub shaft = failure. I have stub shafts with the yokes cut off of them to make a 4wd axle into 2wd in a pinch. Well, had, I gave them away.

It depends what a guy wants to do... D44 parts are about the same price as D60 parts. Well, maybe 20% more. But for the strength difference they're a better deal. But the D60 can have a bad initial purchasing price. However, if you aren't planning to run large tires, a D44 offers better ground clearance. And is cheaper.

They all have it. Asssembly line friendly.

They lie in person too :nuts:

Wow, lost is? That's kinda scary. I looked into a it a bit. But it isn't cheap for me, especially as I'd only want it done for cross-border.

How wide is the block and washers? You need decent over-lap or it won't seal. Otherwise it should. Just crank them bloody tight. Like a 1/4 turn before they break.

My condolences.

I like to make fun of them. I don't hate them. Although, I can think of a guy with a toyota that I do hate... He works for an auto parts store.

The local dating sites are something like "Female sasquatch seeking committed male" Committed? Not to that.

If the 93+ is like that, I have a decent shot. There is an early ZJ and a couple Hoho XJs in that yard. I gotta go back there and get my dist gear anyways, so I might as well grab some other $#!&.

I don't know if I can track down something that new very easily. Although, there is a 4oh TJ in the yard... The intake actually comes with a short cable and brackets to route it around the carb/mixer. The intention then being that you'd bolt on that see-saw bracket like the early 4ohs use. Other than the manifold isn't drilled for the 4of style bracket. Apparently for an 84-87 YJ style one. Whatever that is. I might call these guys and see if they know anything about their own products.