DirtyComanche

Put the jeeps in storage and pre-pay for a while. Sell everything else and tell the gf you lost it all by gambling on the internet. If she's a keeper she'll stick around. Er...

Fabric, quilting, or craft store. As a guess. They look pretty decent.

Don't some toys run oil instead of P/S fluid? I know somebody that ran used engine oil in his P/S for quite a while. Eventually the pump obliderated itself. But it wasn't like that was suprising on anything.

Just a bit thick there, eh? Looks good. I was going to do that for the bumper on my XJ but time bit me in the butt.

I felt some of their work was a little shoddy, and they cheaped out on some things in strange ways. It comes down to personal use and taste. I don't actually buy anything off-the-shelf anymore because nothing would actually fit on my pile because it's been so hacked up. And I've got some strange opinons on how things should work too.

Depends what you mean. I actually have a longer exhaust system than on a stock truck, I think. Well, it's close either way. Because it runs under the cab and then up the back to the roof line. The key to having an exhaust system make power is maintaining low end scavenging and yet allow there to be enough flow for high rpm usage. Mine seemed to work alright as it was with just the stock crushed downpipe and a cherry bomb, then the long tail. Right now I cut the mess off right at the downpipe. So, it doesn't work worth anything. I need to break out the bender, but it turns out I don't have enough left over tube right now. Basically I'm pretty PO'd with the whole thing and don't feel like fixing it yet.

I'd use #19 gun wash/thinner if you can get it. Be warned - it's high test. And that front emblem might be glued on if anybody has ever played with it.

Wow. That's a sweet camper.

I'd fix it, but I have the means... Well, I'd probably not 'fix' it per se.

The steering pumps were the same all the way up till 95 or 96 or something. At least, that's what I think. I have a 92 on my 89 and I compared them both. There is a difference, but it's not an issue (had to do with pressure output).

The closed cooling system is actually superior to the open one - you just have to keep it together. Almost all modern vehicles run them for a reason. 99% of the time it's the stupid plastic resivoir or cap that goes.

10w30 is probably the best option. But it varies by climate, intended use and engine age. But I'm not an oil guy.

I got in a really good pissing match with somebody over this once. He resorted to calling me names; so I think I won. Anyways, the short and simple answer on them is they cause the engine's powerband to be shifted slightly upwards in the RPM range slightly. Which is an effect caused by them mimicking a longer intake runner. This means you get a higher peak HP (by like 2-3!) and a lower peak torque (by like 2-3!). They are more effective on an engine that is built to rev high. Ones with spirals don't help anything. And yes, they are avaliable for the renix. Better yet - make your own. At least you'll have learned something doing that. And there's lots you can do for the perfomance of a 4-oh. I'm not one to bother, but if a guy is willing to spend some time (not money) you can make some pretty respectable power out of them. Anyways, about the renix and the HO. Well. I hate both of them. But I hate the HO more (personally). For some reason they eliminated the knock sensor in the HO which, while not a huge deal on a truck engine, ment they went to a static timing curve. The result was a less efficent engine with poorer fuel economy; and less power output if equipped with the same head. Besides, I hate a check engine light. I'd probably just take the bulb out the first time it came on. Every issue I've had with the renix is my own neglect and my unrelenting urge to modify things that should be left well enough alone.

Those weird twisted wrenches? Do they actually work? I always just hit the wrench with a hammer if it's stuck... Or lock another one onto it, or get a peice of pipe.

Did you get the jack too? Because while it doesn't help you, I threw out about 3 of those...

This was a no brainer. I needed a flat belly. And a skid or two. Besides, while stock tranny crossmembers are cheap, they just don't hold up... So, I started by buying some steel. Image Not Found I was at over $100 by the time I got out of there. But the plate was only about $50. Which wasn't bad seeing as they have to cut it out with the plasma table which totally messes their scheduling. It's only 10g, or 1/8" if you will. But I can work with it. The frist step was to get my current crossmember out... While that shouldn't be hard, I don't have a decent jack to lift my tranny with the front end up in the air (new shocks, er getting to it.) So it involved a lot of swearing. That and I locked the bolts that hold it in place with the lincoln... Eventually it came out. Image Not Found Of course, I also welded my tranny crossmember on. I just never seem to have the right bolts... Oh yeah, it's ghetto. Image Not Found Finially can throw this one out! Then I started mock-up. And pretty much the $#!& hit the fan right away. Image Not Found But it fit. Image Not Found Then I realized the ghetto tranny mount couldn't be re-used. I had zero clearance (see the rubbing - there's a LOT more) and it was now going to mount the tranny 1/2" higher! Image Not Found So I took the ghetto mount... And stole the bushings because they cost me $20. Image Not Found Cut, drilled, tacked up a new one. This one is way better. Image Not Found Yeah, I know the bushing sleeves are different lengths - they're scrap exhaust tubing. Then welded on a new crossmember for the mount.... And WARPED IT TO $#!&! Image Not Found Which is entirely because I'm an idiot. Anyways, I pressed on and ribbed the front skid, then got some paint on it. It warped really bad in the end and I'm not very happy with it. I can remake it later if it is a problem.

No, they're for an inverted T steering setup to remove the inherent dead spot. Which is caused by the tie-rods rolling as you turn. JCR offers a poly spacer with their stuff that does the same thing. I was even cheaper and just used drilled out 3/4" washers to bind the passenger side TRE.

Not saying you're wrong, because I have never seen any spring rates given by the factory, but what's the source of these numbers? I know that stock Cherokee rear springs are much heavier than that, and usually the front springs are stiffer than the rear because they carry the engine. I thought factory fronts would be around 180 to 200+ pounds-per-inch. I'm not sure, spring rate confuses me as nobody 'knows' for sure and the lift companies don't answer anything truthfully. And the calculation is just a PITA. But, I can tell you this. My 6.5" rusty's XJ coils (apparently 150, but maybe 180?) were STIFFER than my stock springs. Which seemed reasonable just eyeballing the thickness and number of coils and putting my weight on them (I did not bother to work it out). I have always said that stock springs are 138~ lbs per in. Barring that you have two front coils, so that's 276lbs per inch on the front. (Which is also why I think the guys with 'heavy bumpers' buying longer springs are whack)

That's a $#!&ty deal. But the unfortunate truth is that things like that happen.

I'd do it, offroad or not.

They all are. It's a high-tolerance metric 12.9 bolt of some crazy sizing/pitch. And often the factory applied a coating of red threadlocker - making them damn hard to remove. Hence I just hacksaw everything.

My junkyard doesn't allow torches, body saws, oils, compressed air (pfft), generators (double pfft), etc in. Cordless sawzalls are okay. But I don't own one, only a hack saw. So it can take a while to pull an axle. But 8.8s are easy enough, just cut the u-bolts, cut the brake line to the frame, cut the sway bar, cut the VSS wire and cut the driveshaft. Then pull the heavy POS out from under there and load it into the cart by yourself. Be sure to squich at least one finger in the process. Okay, that's not so easy.

Have you ever heard of a scale?

Don't worry, it'll take me at least 2 weeks to go out and take the pictures needed to finish my write ups.

It actually works really well for tire balancing, especially if you think to do it when you're getting the tires mounted :roll: