DirtyComanche

Just pull it. It's just some rubber nubby thing.

Mine was in with polyurethane and I couldn't get it out. Took it to a glass shop, had them hot knife it. Cost $40 to do that and put the new one in. Worth it, IMHO. But, I'll never stand in the way of a DIYer.

I doubt he's talking front. If you don't install the seals in them ALL the gear oil you put in will wind up on the ground. Oh, and I'm pretty sure the rear have inner seals. Been a while since I looked.

It looks thin, but it's not. I did it on a slight angle, and now the lowest spot is that bolt hole. I'm at about a 1/2"-5/8" gain now, so about the equivalent of going up 1" in tire size. I can easily get another 1/4" if I cut it all out and use some 1/2" plate instead. And 'duh' to the diff cover. They're mandatory if you drive full throttle into rocks. And there'll be a truss.

Image Not Found I dunno if I should keep going. Maybe move that bolt? Or cut it all and weld in some plate? Image Not Found

That I am. ;) Now you need to lift the front end up and get some bigger rubber.

Or that there's 50000+ in the junkyards.

Image Not Found Dual taurus AUX fans. They make my motor cold.

He wants you to cut it off and link the rear.

Never in. Cab is too small. On.

It was a pretty funny tow home. 04? Taco, he's rated to pull like 5k or something. But, we didn't have trailor brakes because the wiring wasn't compatible (borrowed a trailor), or lights. And the axles were too far back on the trailor, so there was enough weight on the tounge that the rear end was bottomed out. Oh, and the trailor weighed like 1400lbs... It was slow, and bumpy. And braking distance was measured in football fields! Oh yeah, and the middle of the night without lights. Driving through the indian reserve with stray cattle, dogs, and crack heads wandering on the road! Luckily another guy hugged our @$$ to keep the cops from seeing what was going on! It's too bad the trip was kinda a bust. But, this weekend I think I'll be heading out again. Hopefully no problems.

Good to know, but I won't be running that anyways... I forgot to mention, I'll be running redneck fuel injection... Propane. Got all the parts. Just need an intake. Which I need to look into with the newer buick 3.8 (the 3800...), but I know I can make it worth with the old 3.8 (the 231) but that one is the BOP bellhousing pattern which there isn't a 700R4 that'll bolt to. It's a bit of a conundrum. The 3.8 is a lot lighter/smaller than the 4.3, and the potential power difference is very slight.

A reverse steering box points the pitman arm in front of the box instead of behind it. The reason I'd need this is I don't have enough frame to mount the box, use a pitman arm with enough throw, and have the whole mess clear the axle with it that far forewards. As it is, my drag link bottoms out on the tie-rod as they're exactly in line. That's a bad thing. Especially when it means you've only got about 4" up travel on the one side. And the project is to make the MJ small enough to fit the trails it needs to fit. Light enough that my intended (cheap) axles will hold up. Capable enough that I don't get tooo bored. Have a cab so I can stay warm in the winter. Reliable. Theoretically 'street legal'. Oh, and cheap. But I use that word loosely. Basic specs would be... (all in my head. I'm still trying to make it work. This was an asthetics thread...) -37x12.5 MTRs - have -15x9.5" single beadlocks, 3.5" BS - have -105"-107"~ WB. -Panhard 3-link front -Wishbone 3-link or 4-link rear (space depending...) -Coils all around (too cheap for coil-overs) -A frame. See my other 'threats' on this subject. -Full bottom skids -Semi internal/external cage. -A v6. Either a chevy 4.3 or a buick 3.8 -Either a 700R4 or a T18 or such... Leaning towards 700R4 - making the 3.8 not as easy -NP241 w/ 4:1. Or just a NP241. -HP D44 front, waggy width, chromos/yukons, 4.56s, spool. Hydro assist. - have all the parts -Either a HP D44 rear with a detroit, or a isuzu 12B with a LSD and spare welded third. I'd start with the 12B and build the D44 if I saw it as needed. - have the 12B -And I probably want a narrowed body. Which will make the dove-nosing not look so funky.

Well, it's got leaf springs now, so those gotta go too. And then I'll have to figure out how to fit a panhard 3-link.. Also, I need a reverse steering box from the looks of things.

And the other debate is 6" or 12" out of the centre... As in, narrower. I forsee a glass issue with that (I need it to stay 'legal' :roll: ). And a little issue with that I know it's going to be all warped to hell after I cut it.

It's all lots of work... I want a 90* approach. And a 90* departure. And enough room for the cab and about 2-3' of bed. And about a 105-108" WB. I can give up the 4", but it's 4" that will be wasted. Realistically I'd probably try to take more like 6" off the front if I can. I need to figure out my drivetran location (and for that matter, the drivetran...). And I want it to weigh LESS than the current truck (scaled at 4200 with me and BASIC gear).

I've already considered all rear mounted rad options. It is feasable (buddy even offered me his hardcore high-pressure steam hose to do it), but not really what I'm trying to do this time. That's only one hurdle. The other is that all the wiring in the front end would have to be redone, or a propane conversion would be needed. I was going to poor-boy convert the engine, but haven't bothered as it has a few issues. Maybe it finially has decided that it's not going to put up with me anymore :nuts: . So, it's time to do things a little different. Just need to hammer out the plan first (not that I know why, I'm just going to throw it out) then collect some more parts. I'm just wondering if asthetically it would look odd. Or bad. Or horrible. But I need the 4".

That's a fairly common term... And as to of how I'd get those bolts out.... I'd not. Unless I REALLY had to. Then I'd probably be drilling them as overhead welding isn't anything I enjoy. Not that I enjoy overhead drilling. Is flopping your truck in the driveway an option?

No, it would fit. The rad won't.

It's not that easy. I won't do it with this drivetran.

If my hood/fenders were both 4" shorter? And the header panel/grille moved back 4"? Er. And if I shark nose (dove tail) it so that the headlights are within my inner track width? Too bad I have no photoshop skills.

Ya know how I'd fix that... (hint, it invovles throwing something in the trash)

For the pinion angle, it depends how much lift you have. You also have to facotr in that the pinion is rather low on that axle. I'm gonna say you want about 10-13* of pinion angle for about 6-8" of lift.

If they're as feerocknok said (and I wouldn't doubt him, 5.25 sounds right), they'll be horribly nasty with 34s. You won't be able to turn. You could run some good spacers (say, 1.5" or 2") but, they're quite pricey and make it often not worth it. Also, spacers have their own inherent disadvantages.

You might rub with the 15x7s... But, IDK, I'm no expert on tire/wheel fittament.