DirtyComanche

Looks alright from 20 feet if you have a vision deficiency and are blindfolded. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I'm not going back into the garage for a while. But basically I rushed too much. It was to windy too do it outside, so I did it inside. Somebody misplaced (not me) my respirators. I have TWO of them just to avoid that. So I did it with just a dust mask. Stupid stupid. I'm probably gonna start puking. Because I hurred, I mixed the second coat wrong, and it was too thick. Then I ran the crap out of the third because I mixed it worse. And I forgot to blow down the base of the windshield. So there was stuff in there that blew out and landed on the hood. Anyways, that was my first time doing a vehicle with the spray gun. So I learned a whole bunch from that. Ah well. I might wait for it to set up and try to take off the runs with a razor and clean up the other flaws and hit it with a thin coat.

Okay, I screwed the paint up hardcore. But I'm stuck with it. Not enough time to take it down and do it again. And I did it with the wrong mask.

Well. Theoretically there will be 'some' bumpsteer. If all your TREs are nice and tight I bet it would only be a slight left turning tendency on most road bumps - probably not very noticable. It's not a very big difference, and the stock inverted-y steering isn't perfect to begin with, I don't think. As the TREs loosen up it'll become more noticeable as you'll have more wander to begin with. But the problem with it is if you get into any sort of washboard. It'll produce a feeling that you really don't EVER want. Also, it causes funky steering while flexed. You'll be able to turn one way far more than the other... I'm not sure. I haven't done it. Personally if I was to, I'd do the track bar too. It's just 'good form'.

Now that you typed that, I can read your previous post properly. When I first read it, I couldn't believe you'd be saying that. Glad that wasn't the case. Yeah, I didn't realize it was that ambiguous until CW said that.

That's the funny thing about it. I browse the cherokee forums enough to know 8.25 = no ABS. Near as I can tell, ABS must not have been a popular option for jeeps in my area. I've only ever seen 2 cherokees in the boneyard that had ABS. I saw another 2 cherokees with 8.25s while going to get tranny fluid. And I didn't see any others. I just think this guy is such a quack. He's considered the 'jeep god' on the few forums he frequents, and he seems to get quite annoyed when his word is challenged. He had a lot of fun when I showed him threads about XJs with the 2.5L/AW4 and 4.56 gears. :roll: Ah well. I couldn't find any production numbers to smear in his face, so I guess he'll just get to 'win' this one. Dirty, This post is over the top and uncalled for. You can disagree with anyones comments with out making it a personal attack. Just state you opinion its still as valuable here as anyones. I am on many boards and am a director and mod on a few and this kind of strife and nonsense destroys a board. It literally chokes the life from it, people stop posting for fear of retaliator posts about what they say or think. Please keep it civil or go to PM's if you must. Just my personal opinion, CW Huh? Did you read that as I'm attacking Eagle? Because I'm not. I'm mostly agreeing with him. My entire annoyance is directed to a member or a different forum who is doing a few things I disagree with. He is a dealer or lifts, runs a jeep shop, and is considered to be 'in the know'. More than a few times I've seen him use his reputation to commit some gross upselling. And nobody challenges it, oh, and he'll get nasty if you do.

Probably how I'll go. This thing ain't show quality. Besides, I think I want to make a rear bumper for it.

I fixed the tranny cooler lines finially. Dumped in a bunch more red stuff that I hope is compatible with the AW4 and fired it up. The whole tranny cooler line fiasco get's a 5 out of 5 for the swearing factor. Then I masked everything off, and did some bondo-ing, and an initial cleaning. Image Not Found Image Not Found I forgot to mask the tail-lights, and I should probably take the rear bumper off (not feeling like it). I'll tie that up tomorrow, clean it again, and then paint.

Yeah. But you have to tell them or they'll ream the one TRE the wrong way. I didn't mention it as a possibility because this is supposed to be cheap. The JCR setup is a good price though. Part's mike also does a similar one.

That's the funny thing about it. I browse the cherokee forums enough to know 8.25 = no ABS. Near as I can tell, ABS must not have been a popular option for jeeps in my area. I've only ever seen 2 cherokees in the boneyard that had ABS. I saw another 2 cherokees with 8.25s while going to get tranny fluid. And I didn't see any others. I just think this guy (that I mnetioned in the first post) is such a quack. He's considered the 'jeep god' on the few forums he frequents, and he seems to get quite annoyed when his word is challenged. He had a lot of fun when I showed him threads about XJs with the 2.5L/AW4 and 4.56 gears. :roll: Ah well. I couldn't find any production numbers to smear in his face, so I guess he'll just get to 'win' this one.

I'd pay a lot for that.

I thought they're cast nodular iron. Actually, I'm really sure they are. Either way you CAN weld it with a MIG. That doesn't mean you SHOULD. At least not using your typical mild steel wire.

A couple things... Cut down the towers for the upper arms as far as you can. The joint doesn't flex there anyways, so clearance won't matter. You're going to have to do more than beefing up the stock crossmember. I'd build a new one, if I was you... But, you need to work on the uniframe and how it mounts to it. It's not thick enough to hold that sort of stress. Even if you drop your track bar, you will have bumpsteer. Just becuase of the length difference between the track bar and drag link. I'd probably just try it as is and see how bad it is. Is that final tire size?

What I hate is that my local dealer can't even search for discontinued parts. So, if it is discontinued, you can't get it. Even if it does exist. Although, the pricing on the stuff they do have is stupid. A renix rad is listed at $460. Tranny cooler lines are $260 each. A coolant bottle is $106.

Hypothetically. I wouldn't ever modify the inverted-y stuff. IMHO it belongs in the trash. It never works right. But, this is coming from a guy with an inverted T setup that the tie rod has been cut down and welded back together, and the drag link has been cut down and has a heim on one end. And a tapered fluted reamer drills a straight hole. Or a hole with about a 2* degree taper if you don't go all the way through (it's not ment to do that). But, it'll go through spring steel so the knuckles won't be any harder.

I got the door back together. It works now... Image Not Found All sanded. Needs to be cleaned and masked and I can paint it. And I got new tranny cooler lines. Junkyard new. For FREE. The dealer wanted $260 a line.

Most people just flip the tie-rod. It doesn't work as well, but is a lot easier than sourcing a RHD drag link. Either way inverted Y steering never really works that well (IMHO). Although, there's really very little to it once you have the parts. You drill three holes and tack the inserts in place. Yes, the holes are a little hard to drill - I'd probably not have used a single large drill bit. Actually, I'd not use a drill bit. A tapered fluted reamer with some gear oil on it would cut through that stuff nicely.

IIRC, ford explorers have a nice one.

I didn't even look at the axles. For that size tire that'll be bad. The D44 outers are rather weak. Especially the stock ones.

They allow you to reverse the taper in the TRE holes in the steering knuckles (or anything else for that matter). So, instead of the TRE being below the knuckle, it can be above it. It's just a little tapered cone thing.

Shhh. If you unplug them most people don't notice. That way they're already up for next year.

It'd be fullwidth D44s front and rear, I think. At least, that's what my buddies 1500 was. I think. But yeah, wrong side front diff. Unless you're into a tcase swap it won't work very well.

True to that. I've seen a couple snapped sector shafts from DP arms. Although, maybe their time was up anyways. Either way, a steering box brace on one of these vehicles is pretty much mandatory.

Yup. But to clarify that, that's the angle drawn by a straight line between the two joints on the track bar, and the passenger side TRE on the knuckle and the TRE at the pitman arm. The factory track bar is curved - making it hard to tell exactly what's going on with the angles.

It's a grey interior. I think it'll match alright to pretty much anything.