DirtyComanche

No, it would fit. The rad won't.

It's not that easy. I won't do it with this drivetran.

If my hood/fenders were both 4" shorter? And the header panel/grille moved back 4"? Er. And if I shark nose (dove tail) it so that the headlights are within my inner track width? Too bad I have no photoshop skills.

Ya know how I'd fix that... (hint, it invovles throwing something in the trash)

For the pinion angle, it depends how much lift you have. You also have to facotr in that the pinion is rather low on that axle. I'm gonna say you want about 10-13* of pinion angle for about 6-8" of lift.

If they're as feerocknok said (and I wouldn't doubt him, 5.25 sounds right), they'll be horribly nasty with 34s. You won't be able to turn. You could run some good spacers (say, 1.5" or 2") but, they're quite pricey and make it often not worth it. Also, spacers have their own inherent disadvantages.

You might rub with the 15x7s... But, IDK, I'm no expert on tire/wheel fittament.

I'd use the 15x7s personally. But, the backspacing might be more important than the width here.

Was the thread the same as the normal ones? They apparently have a pretty bad rap for stripping out.

You need: -Bunch of garden hose -Tap -Lawn sprinkler -Beer Step by step: -Connect hose to tap and lawn sprinkler. -Park truck within range of hose -Place sprinkler under truck -Turn on tap -Drink beer while your truck is being cleaned. Hope you don't live in a water restriction area as you're going to have to wait a while...

You must be referring to the Mopar Ram Induction "Long Ram" and "Short Ram" intake manifolds Chrysler introduced in the early '60's. That's the devil. There was a car or two with the long ram setup at the last car show I went to. Looked pretty cool in chrome.

I can imagine the lift thing, cause it's pretty much a Huge body lift with a suspension lift underneath it. Please, get pics. I've seem a couple Cherokees done like this, but there were done kinda cheesy, and I've never seen a Comanche done up. I'd really avoid doing that if you want any sort of off-road capability. Under the belly EVERY inch counts. Stacking the frames will lose you about 6" right there.

No, it's got 1-peice shafts. But, a truss would be a very good idea - they used rather thin/small tubes that like to bend.

I think you can get the roll cage under the body panels, or at least mostly under them - so it sticks out about 1" at most. I mean, you can get away with 1.5" tubing (or uh, pipe...) for an interior cage easily enough, and there's a big whack of space under the interior panels in most places. It'll take some creativity, but I think if you're already doing a major hackjob you can get it to fit. Ever driven a 6.5? They're pretty slow. Very reliable though. And lighter than the cummins. Personally I think if you're bent on a diesel it's a decent choice. But, that's at least what my friends tell me, I'm not a diesel guy. Although, the cummins 4BT would be a good choice if you can find one - they're all mechanical. The 6.5 has a harness and computer. What it does I don't know. Like I said, I'm not a diesel guy. The good news is the TH-400s don't use any fancy computer gizmos - I think they only need a throttle position cable. Again, I'm no expert on them - they have several different incarnations because they were used for so many years.

I say give it a shot.... One thing to consider is building a cage for it now. Regardless of how you wheel, rollovers happen off-road and on. With the thing already ripped apart it'll be very easy to add one and make it work with how you want to use the truck. Also, if you tie it in far enough frontwards and back - it'll greatly stiffen up that frame and get a couple birds stoned at once. Do you want an auto tranny or a stick? For an auto I'd recommend a TH-400 behind the 6.5. They came stock, making it easy, and can be bolted to many different tcases. For a stick, if you can live with only 4 gears, I'd go sm420 or sm465. Cheap and indestructable, with a great granny gear. Again, you can bolt them to a lot of different tcases. For a 5spd there's not many good options - most won't bolt up easily or will be very expensive. You'll want to decided on a tcase too.

See my edit. If nothing else I want to see how this goes to borrow ideas.

There's gonna be a few problems... A minute I need. Alrighty. J-10 frames are, from what I've heard, not exactly the best of items. I believe the are partially boxed and partially channel. Anyways, they have a tendency to flex like mad, and crack where they aren't boxed. Having the frame flex in this case will be an issue - the unibody itself is very stiff and the cab was never ment to see any major flexing (okay, I consider this debatable, I'm going by what the guys on NAXJA say but I never trust them). You can probably get around this by attaching the cab with rubber body mounts and running some fairly thick (3/16) flat bar along the floor following the profile of the frame, and boxing the entirety of the frame. I'd probably want 6 body mounts for just a MJ cab. 8 or 10 if you're to extend it. FWIW, the frame you're looking at unlikely has a HP axle. Unless it has been swapped from a F-truck. Which isn't likely either, J-10s only track 64" while a F-truck is 65-67" (not a huge difference, but it adds up as the rear only tracks 62"). And the f-trucks were either 5 or 8 lug, so the outers would have to be swapped. If I was to do it, which I have mused about and still am... I would build my own frame using 2x4x.125 HSS and use just a few more cross-members that any factory vehicle... Read that as a full belly skid made from a honeycomb structure and UMHF (or whatever that plastic is). And tie-in a lot of tube. Just because that suits me more than doing it any other way and I am somewhat afraid that the what I've head regarding flexing being an issue may be true.

Constrictors bother me a bit. But not tooo bad. Okay, an anaconda would be a bad thing. What I hate is snakes with venom. Obviously in other parts of the world you get some fairly nasty ones. Here we get western diamondbacks, which the venom of does VERY nasty things. The last guy in my town that I recall getting bit walked about 10 feet then started to bleed from his eyes, ears, mouth, nose... :puke: He lived, after about a month in intensive care and using up ALL of the anti-venom in 3 different hospitals.

The TB spacers are a scam - sorta. (People might fight with me about this, they have before :roll: ) All they do is increase the effective intake runner length resulting in a shift in the torque/HP band. A shift in the upwards direction. It's great if you have a street/strip car that likes to and can rev. Hence you'll see ultra high rise or tunnel ram (I think that's what they're called) intakes on lots of muscle cars. There was even a muscle car (can't remember what) that was offered with an ultra long intake manifold - in fact they were bent tubing that placed the carbs about a foot from the intake ports on the head. The problem is the 4.0 does NOT like to rev. In fact it has a harmonic problem that will cause the timing chain to self destruct at about 6500rpm. Not to mention that in stock form the valves float like mad, and it probably starts well before redline. Hence, a TB spacer is a pretty useless mod. It'll cause you to lose a couple ft-lbs of torque and pick up a couple HP.

One of my MANY beefs about rusty's was the use of Gr5 hardware. I DON'T care if it is 'theoretically' strong enough or W/E they maintain (I know they don't engineer their stuff) - for the extra $2 it would have cost why aren't they gr8? It's your bloody suspension, it should be BEEFY! I think many people did what you did and wound up buying their own hardware. Anyways, the XJs looking pretty good. Keep at 'er.

It's some sort of steering setup, I looked at it earlier. DOM tie rod and drag link, I guess? Stock sized TREs I'd assume. Might be worth something, might not. Personally I'd not stick with the 1/4-ton TREs.

You can make a high revving motor work off road. You just need lower gears. But, I gotta agree, for a vehicle with the weight of a MJ it'd be pretty useless unless all you do is play in the mud. My only suggestion is to start cheap. And stay cheap.

I'm not sure how it worked, but they might have used the TTB D50 on some F350s (I don't know anything for sure, I LOOK at parts to know what they are). It was only much later (after 2000) that the solid D50 was used. It's a strange axle, if detroit locker or anyone else makes a full locker for it it might be cool. You should be able to put 35 spline axles in it then and have somethign a bit stronger than a 44/60 for a lower price. As it is, it is TOTALLY useless. But still worth a few bucks. Even the TTB D50 is - all the TTB furd guys like them because they have a remote chance of not breaking.

Regger. I don't know if he got it done, those Herd of Turtles guys are slow... I think he decided to buy the box4rocks setup.

It's 4wd? Well, it most likely has a HP D60 with either kingpins and hubs, or ball-joints and unit bearings. Either of which is worth big bucks. And it'll have a sterling 10.25 rear - which isn't worth big bucks but is hella strong. BW something-or-other tcase that is garbage. Motor and tranny may be worth something. Even if you don't have the means to use the parts you could sell them.