DirtyComanche

Was it just me or was a chick named Scott driving it? How steep is that slope? Anyone been there? It's hard to tell with the camera... I think I would have used a more throttle approach, but it's hard to say without seeing it... But all I can say is I'm pretty sure I've taken my DD XJ through worse. And that's not what I consider hard. The XJ/MJ platform wheels awesome for stock (they're one of the cheapest most capable vehicles out of the box) - but stock still sucks.

Yeah, the XJ and MJ definatly have the bang for the buck. Even some of the early ZJs are getting cheap here.

Last time I checked you didn't need to rust-proof fiberglass :nuts: The thing about wranglers (we don't actually call them that here :Canadaflag: ) is that they're all so darn expensive. My MJ was $1600 when I got it, a YJ of the same year and shape would be about $3500-4200. Otherwise I'd probably have one just to drop the top and windshield and go cruising down the highway.

Actually, if you want to narrow it you can get 2 birds stoned at once here. Basically, you have to remove the welds that hold the cast mounts to the inner tubes. Then remove the entire mount/outer tube/C as a unit - a press probably works better than a BFH. Then you cut the inner tubes down (I wouldn't use waggy shafts, it'll mess everything up because of the uneven length) - I'd say 3"~ off each side. Then you smack the mounts back onto the tube, set caster, and weld the mess back together. Now the coil mounts are narrower too - by 3" on each side, probably really close to inline? Hard to say. And the radius arms are a little more workable at that width, IMHO. We need somebody stupid enough to try this. And will to spend a couple bucks on some aftermarket shafts. I've only even seen it done once, and they put it under a YJ. But, the axle does still have thinner tubes.

The factory AUX fans are basically posessed. They do what they want. In my XJ it would come on when it was -30~ (or colder, I hadn't checked until recently) out as soon as I started it. And it just sounds like you need a tune up. Clean the injectors, clean/gap/replace plugs, check the dist, clean the TB and IAC, clean/replace the air filter, check all the vacuum hoses for breakage/blockage. Basically do everything I never bother with.

Did you cut far enough down that you lost the inside handle too? You could get some sweet electric poppers like they do on the lowriders... haha. Those are expensive for what you get. A lot of people take the inside handle and mount it flat on the part where the door has been cut. And normally they throw a cupholder in there too.

6 on 5.5.

Personally, I liked the MJ as a DD better. I don't need more seating, and seem to spend a lot of time hauling stuff that could only be described as 'crap'. As it is, in the back of my cherokee I have the seat folded down to make space for the spare tire, my stump chains, 4 boxes of stuff to go to the dump, my tool-boxes (in case I decided to hit the boneyard). The carpet is now a greasy, dirty mess. And I'm always afraid I'll roll it and have all the stuff in the back hit me in the head... Had I not destoryed the cab, bed, and unibody on my MJ I would very well consider restomodding it and DDing it, and wheeling my XJ. Okay, maybe I'd not wheel the XJ. But the point is the MJ did really well on the street for me.

As far as off-road related upgrades, there's really two parts to look at: -linkages -hydraulics For the linkages, yes, the JCR stuff is top notch. It is highly resistant to bending/breaking, and if you flip it has much better geometry on a lifted vehicle. For the hydraulic side of things, there's a bunch of possible upgrades. A lot of guys use a newer dakota steering box as it has a better throw ratio and a greater force output. Also, you can drill out the restrictor valve in the pump, and modify the regulator spring to get some more pressure out of it. There's also aftermarket pumps avaliable - but they are way overkill for most applications. There's also hydro-assist (and full hydro) steering, which is generally overkill unless you run a spooled front and/or. large tires

D44 front? No. D44 rear.... Yeah. But it's hard. You have to turn down the centre 'hub' portion of the flange, and then there may or may not be enough clearance on the back side for stud installation. The problem is the 5x4.5 pattern is bloody small.

I like the visor. But the bra, well, whenever I get personal with ones of those I take it off.

They cost like $4. They're a decent investment.

Pickle fork?

Don't quote me. But it should fit providing you use a high ratio carrier.

WJs are different. I think it's 5 x 5 but I don't remember for certain. I AM certain that it is NOT 5 x 4-1/2 Yeah, they're 5x5. I have one outside...

I'd not bother putting mirrors on half doors. I keep knocking mine off.

The factory installed a visual warning for if you leave the headlights on.

OD green always looks good. I wish I had a tow rig.

Yup.

I never actually posted a pic in this thread. So, here. Poseur shot. Image Not Found

Poseur shots. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Yeah, the wag is LP. Ming has a few driveshaft issues because of that. That and I drag the thing on everything. When I pull it tomorrow (or whenever) I think I'll get a picture. As to if the scout is passenger side drop or not, I can't remember. It probably is. But something makes me want to say it isn't.

The full size waggy uses 1/4ton jeep (MJ) width axles (61 and 58.5 ish and ish). The scout is 58" (IIRC) front. The EB is about 58". J-10s and W/T cherokees use 64" axles (ish). J-20s and all other fullsize trucks use 67" (ish) axles. Some ford axles onlt track about 66" (front). Some 1-ton applications are as wide as 74". Rockwell 2.5s are 80" or something. So, unless you want to narrow an axle or go to full-width, only the waggy, EB, and scout axles are workable. Or a toyota front (ugh).

Probably not. I can't be sure, but I think that pattern will be 5x5, not 5x4.5 (jeep).

Both are hard to find.