DirtyComanche

I have to agree on that C. But they're both splayd out. I'd say she's FUBAR. The JeepSpeed guys weld gussets onto the C/tube to prevent that.

It turns out there's a yoke on my ford D44 that can be drilled out. Looks like I'll deal with it that way. I don't have any clue why they used a different yoke on the ford D44 than the waggy D44 though???

Ever trip they stretch on me. Bear in mind I'm being a little hard on things, hard enough to twist the splines on the driveshaft. Thanks for the pics CW, I'll track down the needed parts as soon as I get off me lazy arse.

I thought you could get spacers that are DOT approved? Well, not like I know, mine sure aren't. They aren't required to be here... But they really shouldn't loosen. As long as they tapered them half decently and milled them right they would have no reason to give you trouble. That is, providing you torque the lug nuts correctly... And maybe throw a little lock-tite on there for good measure. Never had any problems with mine at least :chillin:

I don't recall how much I ground. I think it was minimal. I made my own perches. I just used a different size of tubing for the one so it would be level with the other one (that was welded to the axle tube instead of the centre section).

15x8 with 3.5". That's with 37s though.

Less.

I think there's pictures of mine in my build thread? I think I had to grind it a bit and weld the perch to the casting. They sat high because of that. But that was with going at 32" centre-centre. If you go any wider the tires will really be into the springs. As it is I rub them all the time.

Front leafs?

It's for a D44. I think the yoke that's on it would be too tight. But I could see. I guess I can always grind it down. That article has the stock spicer P/Ns. That's cool. Too bad the only spicer dealer in town is a little :nuts:

Yes, it needs a few things. -A wing. A BIG ONE. Multilayer is worth more points. Everything you need to build your own can be found at a hardware store. Yes, 2x4s are an excelent material choice. -A fart can. Again, a big one. A dual tip setup is worth extra points. Luckily everything needed to build one can be found around the house. Hint, eat some soup. -A body kit. Cardboard and chicken wire should not be used sparingly. Cover the entire mess with bondo after you have the basic shape. Don't bother to sand it. Just paint over it afterwards. Or don't even paint it for that 'Ho, I pimped this schiz myself' look. -Carbon fiber. Obviously the real stuff would actually be of some benefit in the real world. Hence it is suggest you buy the rolls of the stick on stuff. Apply it to everything you think should be made from carbon fiber. Ie, the trunk lid, door handles, headlights, side windows. -Pimptastic wheels. Black doesn't cut it in this urban world. Luckily Wal-mart sells clip on 'chrome' spinners for about $14.99 a set. While you're at it, get the multi-coloured LED valve stems. -A incorrectly mounted liscense plate. You must put it on an angle. While you're at it, a vanity plate that reads 'DUB CLUB' or 'THA PIMP' is a neccessity.

Woah woah woah there. I know a guy with a 'done up' 22R that puts out 100HP! For some reason he hates, maybe because I laughed at him when he told me how he had like 4g into the motor :nuts: But yes, that appears to be the secret to the toy axle's strength. (I also know a sammi that dyno'd 16rwhp.)

Yeah, you can. They're meant for DD/not trail only vehicles. I saw them in action on a chevy 3500. He was running about 5psi in the snow with them and didn't roll a bead that I saw. Of course, that didn't stop him from rolling the truck :roll: Silly fullsize guys.

Cool. I'll try the local parts place first and see if they can get one, if not I'll be ordering it! Stupid straps.

The 4.0 is rather old technology when it comes to cylinder head design (60s), and is also rather low compression, and doesn't rev very high. Sure, you can use an expensive plug, but you won't see a difference.

At least he didn't go about 15' farther. Then he'd be dead.

Oh, I'm sure they will. Just make sure they aren't expensive.

Am I reading that right in that it is the stock yoke for a 1980 CJ?

Champion truck plugs. The cheap ones. Everything else is a waste of money.

Anybody knopw who/if they make a strap to u-bolt conversion yoke for a D30/35/44, etc? I keep stretching the straps on my front driveshaft. Kinda a bish.

Was it just me or was a chick named Scott driving it? How steep is that slope? Anyone been there? It's hard to tell with the camera... I think I would have used a more throttle approach, but it's hard to say without seeing it... But all I can say is I'm pretty sure I've taken my DD XJ through worse. And that's not what I consider hard. The XJ/MJ platform wheels awesome for stock (they're one of the cheapest most capable vehicles out of the box) - but stock still sucks.

Yeah, the XJ and MJ definatly have the bang for the buck. Even some of the early ZJs are getting cheap here.

Last time I checked you didn't need to rust-proof fiberglass :nuts: The thing about wranglers (we don't actually call them that here :Canadaflag: ) is that they're all so darn expensive. My MJ was $1600 when I got it, a YJ of the same year and shape would be about $3500-4200. Otherwise I'd probably have one just to drop the top and windshield and go cruising down the highway.

Actually, if you want to narrow it you can get 2 birds stoned at once here. Basically, you have to remove the welds that hold the cast mounts to the inner tubes. Then remove the entire mount/outer tube/C as a unit - a press probably works better than a BFH. Then you cut the inner tubes down (I wouldn't use waggy shafts, it'll mess everything up because of the uneven length) - I'd say 3"~ off each side. Then you smack the mounts back onto the tube, set caster, and weld the mess back together. Now the coil mounts are narrower too - by 3" on each side, probably really close to inline? Hard to say. And the radius arms are a little more workable at that width, IMHO. We need somebody stupid enough to try this. And will to spend a couple bucks on some aftermarket shafts. I've only even seen it done once, and they put it under a YJ. But, the axle does still have thinner tubes.

The factory AUX fans are basically posessed. They do what they want. In my XJ it would come on when it was -30~ (or colder, I hadn't checked until recently) out as soon as I started it. And it just sounds like you need a tune up. Clean the injectors, clean/gap/replace plugs, check the dist, clean the TB and IAC, clean/replace the air filter, check all the vacuum hoses for breakage/blockage. Basically do everything I never bother with.