DirtyComanche

That's how you get tough feet. And those tires are going to stick out like mad! But, as long as that's not illegal it's a decent thing.

Damn clean looking truck. People should stop posting nice ones. I don't need to have to buy another truck right now.

Post it in the projects forum as a 'How-to' and maybe I'll get around to finishing my how-tos on P/S pump modding, swapping in a 'isuzu rear, and maybe a few other tricks that are on my truck. Then Pete can perhaps make a room for how-tos with nothing else in it.

There was two generations of those seats. The earlier ones actually were formed to the shape of a real human being - or at least close. The later ones aren't modelled to anything human, and thus hurt like mad. Oh, and they padding covers for them, which makes them a little better. Still not something I'd sit in for 8 hours. I'd be interested if anybody finds some seats that are comfortable and I can get out of the wrecking yard. My XJ ones are kinda broken.

The reason I used lead - they're about 100X more dense. Oh, and they sell them by the pound, making life easier.

I'd probably have waited to burn on the perches/mounts before paint :nuts: But then, I can't talk, I didn't even paint my front D44 when I put it in. I was all pissed off and in a hurry so it just didn't get done. :roll:

I'm kicking myself now. I mounted it pretty high when I re-did it last time. But, not high enough... Anyways, is there any decent header to tranny (cross-over) pipe kits out there? Ya know, a couple straight peices and some bends that a guy can tack together how he wants? Cheap would be good too... Although, I probably don't have time to order one. Or should I buy some more tubing and bend another one myself? Maybe put a flex coupling (cost like $50) immediatly after the header and then solid mount the thing to the inside of the frame after the crossover? It isn't mounted to the tranny mount as is, it kinda flops around under the truck. But it is solid mounted to the cab after the flex coupling in the rear. But, that was so the stack would be solid mounted - and not hit the cab. Pic for those that are unframiliar. Image Not Found Alternatively I can probably cut about 3-4" out from under the stack in the rear (the clearances get weird) and just bottle jack the whole mess back up and weld it back together. It might be easiest but I'm not conviced it'll work. I think I might really crack the already cracked header. Oh, how close can I get it to the floor before the carpet goes up in smoke? It's tight now, but I'll be putting it about 1/2" off the floor. It will be a confined area - full belly skid is going on!

There's no magic to how they work. You can use LOTS of things. Sand, water, anti-freeze, marbles (uh), BBs, airsoft balls, golf balls (doesn't work as well). Personally I use BBs. Cheap, avaliable, good weighting and work well. And you can fudge the amount by a fair factor, just remember 'some is good, more is better'. I seem to recall I used about 8 ounces for 35s. I didn't bother to balance the MT/Rs but I should do it if I remember sometime.

No rust? Umm, what's that on the door?

As southlake said, the sleeve will push out. So will the bushing if you want. It's somewhat annoying as the rubber compresses while you're pressing it out. It's easiest if you have a large enough vice to put it in a with a large socket on one side and a small one on the other. If the sleeve is seized to the bushing the whole mess might just pop out.

A dude with a CNC plasma... Not a 4x4 company of any sorts, but he does what he calls 'industrial art' for a living. He wanted a set for himself, so he offered to do a run of them.

My beadlock rings are in the mail! They were cut 3 weeks ago, but I had them done as a favour, so I wasn't expecting them to be taken out for shipping in a hurry. Hopefully they'll show up before the weekend.

I have to agree on that C. But they're both splayd out. I'd say she's FUBAR. The JeepSpeed guys weld gussets onto the C/tube to prevent that.

It turns out there's a yoke on my ford D44 that can be drilled out. Looks like I'll deal with it that way. I don't have any clue why they used a different yoke on the ford D44 than the waggy D44 though???

Ever trip they stretch on me. Bear in mind I'm being a little hard on things, hard enough to twist the splines on the driveshaft. Thanks for the pics CW, I'll track down the needed parts as soon as I get off me lazy arse.

I thought you could get spacers that are DOT approved? Well, not like I know, mine sure aren't. They aren't required to be here... But they really shouldn't loosen. As long as they tapered them half decently and milled them right they would have no reason to give you trouble. That is, providing you torque the lug nuts correctly... And maybe throw a little lock-tite on there for good measure. Never had any problems with mine at least :chillin:

I don't recall how much I ground. I think it was minimal. I made my own perches. I just used a different size of tubing for the one so it would be level with the other one (that was welded to the axle tube instead of the centre section).

15x8 with 3.5". That's with 37s though.

Less.

I think there's pictures of mine in my build thread? I think I had to grind it a bit and weld the perch to the casting. They sat high because of that. But that was with going at 32" centre-centre. If you go any wider the tires will really be into the springs. As it is I rub them all the time.

Front leafs?

It's for a D44. I think the yoke that's on it would be too tight. But I could see. I guess I can always grind it down. That article has the stock spicer P/Ns. That's cool. Too bad the only spicer dealer in town is a little :nuts:

Yes, it needs a few things. -A wing. A BIG ONE. Multilayer is worth more points. Everything you need to build your own can be found at a hardware store. Yes, 2x4s are an excelent material choice. -A fart can. Again, a big one. A dual tip setup is worth extra points. Luckily everything needed to build one can be found around the house. Hint, eat some soup. -A body kit. Cardboard and chicken wire should not be used sparingly. Cover the entire mess with bondo after you have the basic shape. Don't bother to sand it. Just paint over it afterwards. Or don't even paint it for that 'Ho, I pimped this schiz myself' look. -Carbon fiber. Obviously the real stuff would actually be of some benefit in the real world. Hence it is suggest you buy the rolls of the stick on stuff. Apply it to everything you think should be made from carbon fiber. Ie, the trunk lid, door handles, headlights, side windows. -Pimptastic wheels. Black doesn't cut it in this urban world. Luckily Wal-mart sells clip on 'chrome' spinners for about $14.99 a set. While you're at it, get the multi-coloured LED valve stems. -A incorrectly mounted liscense plate. You must put it on an angle. While you're at it, a vanity plate that reads 'DUB CLUB' or 'THA PIMP' is a neccessity.

Woah woah woah there. I know a guy with a 'done up' 22R that puts out 100HP! For some reason he hates, maybe because I laughed at him when he told me how he had like 4g into the motor :nuts: But yes, that appears to be the secret to the toy axle's strength. (I also know a sammi that dyno'd 16rwhp.)

Yeah, you can. They're meant for DD/not trail only vehicles. I saw them in action on a chevy 3500. He was running about 5psi in the snow with them and didn't roll a bead that I saw. Of course, that didn't stop him from rolling the truck :roll: Silly fullsize guys.