DirtyComanche

I'll get back to you on this. This is why normally I don't say anything about radius arms, or much about any suspension. :roll:

:nuts: No suprise there. I know one of the 10-minute oil changes put 80w-90 in the tcase of a guy I know. And it was a NP241... Cooked it within 20 minutes. They denied it, other than on the bill there wasn't any ATF and it said they had changed the tcase fluid. But there was an aweful lot of 80w-90.

Uh, no. I ran them. I had the issues. I know guys with XJs who ran them. Had the same issues... I've seen them on toyotas - same issues. And a suzuki that was downright scary between the radius arm front and the 4-link rear, and the 4-link was only partially at fault. I'm saying they're live-able, even quite decent for most, but not in any way ideal. For the time/money invested they work well, but there is better options. In the rear radius arms are just stupid. Massive flex steer and horrible squat.

Yar, The LS1 is god's gift to gearheads. Aluminum block and heads. They seem to hold up to about 700HP on the stock internals too. Found in 4th gen f-bodies and C-5s. They should have put them in everything if you ask me. Then there'd be more in junkyards for me to steal. Now, the new LS2...

The rusty's coils are stiff enough it'll be fine. At least as long as they're the same as mine were. You're going to lean a bunch on corners, so no ralley racing!

Nice jeep trucks. They're both very clean. I've almost bought a willys more than once. But, I'd do bad things to it, so it's best I don't.

It's been CRAZY warm here for the last 3 days. We're talking 21, 22, and 24 degrees C... That's like 70-75* for the southerners. Something has f'd up with the weather but I'm NOT gonna complain. I just hope it holds because I don't have any garage space unless I move the MJ - which the XJ is boxing in now.

Yeah. That I am. They're cheap and dirty, or simple, if you want. For the amount of effort required they work well, but they aren't by any means great. A LOT of people use them and like them. I'm not into them after seeing them in action a bunch and having had problems with my own. That was trying to do more technical trails though... Best setup on the street? No, not really. Most people/manufacterors combate the dive by going with a VERY STIFF front coil. However, between stiff coils and an anti-sway bar they ride fairly well and don't misbehave too badly.

I'm making this thread just to prove how slow I work... I have one week without work or school, and I NEED to fix everything that is already wrong with it or likely to go wrong within the next couple months. Mostly because I hate working on my DD when I know I'll need it, and it's currently a cop magnet. Problems: -2 wrecked motor mounts - FIXED -radiator with a hole in it - FIXED -bad tranny cooler lines - FIXED -bad thermostat - FIXED -exhaust 'issue' -wiring and cosmetic issue on tailgate -bent front bumper end (no front tag either) -whether strippg/window crank issue - FIXED -broken grille and cracked header panel -rust spots, ugly paint in general -horrid rear leafs... too stiff As it sits right now. Image Not Found The bad radiator is out, and all the front end crap is off. The motor mounts I removed. Image Not Found Obviously they were a little over-due for replacement. As I could tell by the exhaust hitting the tranny crossmember. Major PITA to change. Rust... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I hate dealing with doors.... but it must be done. Liftgate... Image Not Found The wiper doesn't work, the speakers are messed, and I need some mounts for the panel. Exhaust 'issue' Image Not Found Window issue... Image Not Found The track is bent, so it doesn't work too well... However, I remember I have a couple extra doors in storage that have good tracks/glass. So, I will pirate what I need. I had better get done in time. I'll pick up a replacement rad and tranny cooler lines tomorrow (I hope).

The have some inherent bind - which typically isn't a problem for jeep users. However, on a full-size rig (fords...) it can actually cause axle tube seperation. This is minor and normally can be over-come with using enough bushings on the axle side (cheap rubber ones work best... they give lots). The real problem with them is that they have horrid dive/squat and unloading tendencies. This is because it is impossible to get the geometry at all right on them and still have them flex/ride decent. This means stopping suddenly will cause a 'nose dive'. Likewise trying to brake downhill can lead to an endo. They also have a hop tendency when you hammer on the throttle as they pull down the rear of the truck downwards and lift the front. This is worse if you 'wrist' the setup to eliminate the bind tendency. All in all they work alright, but they're quick and dirty. Certainly not great. However, many people run them without complaint. A panharded 3-link is a far better setup - but with it you can't just go 'oh, I'm gonna make my arms (random number) long!' and have things work out at all okay. Oh, do yourself a favour and buy good joints (rebuildable heims or cartridge joints) for the frame end. Don't use any of that 'twisting thread' crap like you'll see on more than a few comercially sold setups out there.

Use whatever, long as it's ATF. NP tcases are ment to run on any.

I'd look on NAXJA for setups... Much as I hate the site, they have lots of LA builds. There's very little too them. Be aware they are quick and dirty, and definatly not the 'best'.

These would be best... For 33s I'd actually say the 95+ chrysler 8.25 is a good choice if you don't 'need' disk brakes. It will be plenty strong but the lowest gearing is 4.56 (which may or may not work for you). The best part is it is very avaliable - often for cheap. The 8.8 is a good axle if you find a junkyard one with 4.10s. That keeps over-all cost down as CW mentioned.

Axles I consider workable for a rear swap (where my list stands now): Ford 8.8 (explorer) disk and drum 5x4.5 XJ/MJ D44 5x4.5 MJ AMC20 5x4.5 Waggy D44 6x5.5 Waggy AMC20 6x5.5 Chrysler 8.25 (XJ, 95+) 5x4.5 Chrysler 8.75 (mopar muscle) 5x4.5 Isuzu 12B 6x5.5 Isuzu D44 6x5.5 EB 9" 5x5.5 Toy 8" 6x5.5 Nissan something-or-other (It might be 62-63" wide... I've still been meaning to look into it) 6x5.5 Unless you want to swap the front, you'll only want ones labelled as 5x4.5 (bolt pattern). Some of these axles are slightly narrow and could use spacers (you can also adapt the other bolt patterns this way). Edit, you want 33s... I'll narrow it down.

I saw the valve covers and thought "LS1 :brows: " but no, it's just an LT1. Kinda weird.

What's a plasma worth? I've not looked into it... But I think I want to invest in one eventually. I'd probably sawzall it or use a cutoff wheel. I prefer the sawzall if I can because I always seem to almost cut off my fingers with the angle grinder...

The ball-joint centre line points back towards the tcase. At least, it should. Raising the pinion up makes them vertical, and then pointing forwards. Vertical can be lived with (it won't WANT to recentre), pointing forwards is BAD (it'll want to not centre). As far as what comancheman did, it may or may not be alright. Drive it and see how it handles. The pinion angle should NOT be favoured over caster beyond the 0* (vertical) point. But, curving over the coils isn't a bad thing - it's just bad form.

Uh, NAPA sells the fittings... The standard ones at least. You just need to talk to a guy who knows the cataloges. If they're stupid about it, find a wholesaler and ask them - those guys are more likely to know things. And there's a local chain here (lordco) that sells both the metric and standard ones. And adapter fittings, and so on...

Somebody should try ordering some stuff and seeing if they actually do have it. They have the roll bars for both SWBs and LWBs for about $150. The bush guard for $80. And maybe some other factory options.

They're adjustable coil spacers. Basically a big threaded rod and a couple nuts. You crank the nut up and down to adjust ride heigt...

I don't think so.

Certainly not. Most people would have passed them over for the shipping price.

29" ride height is massive though... I'd probably try to raise the lower bracket too. Depending. How much suspension travel does it have?

What type?

The largest monroe will be about that... As long as you put a stud elminator bracket on the top end. Maybe.