DirtyComanche

What bolts up? I can think of the TF-904, the 30RH, and a select few AW4s. Anybody know of anything else? Anybody know what came in the 2.8L S-10s (that would bolt up)?

You can for a MJ/XJ too. I've NEVER seen a kit to do it, or it mentioned for or by anybody with a smaller lift. But you can shim about .250" more length to the LCAs. Maybe a hair more if you drill a little. But if one wanted the shims, the junkyard has lots. Most XJs come with at least 2 shims, or more. My MJ had 4 from the factory.

There's not much to it. Go buy some welding cable - there's a chart to determine the correct size, but I think I used 0? Run the positive to the starter and the negative to a good ground point or back to the engine ground.

I don't like having to jab the brakes when going down the hill. :D Also, if anyone is having problems with a clutch and a hill, they don't have enough gearing. :brows: If you can lock out first and the TQ you can compression brake. But I was driving the MJ around today (new rear driveshaft - I can go fast!) and I realized how much I do compression brake because I can. Well, and because the brakes still blow because I haven't replaced the master.

Lots of people think stiffer springs are better. Honestly, I don't.

Better tires help too. Oh, umm, maybe you've got a brake biasing issue.

So are stiffer. And give lift. Others aren't.

Not to start a debate, but I like dealing with the clutch myself. I really feel like I have more control, and it's nice to not worry about if I can stop or not in 4-lo. The stock shifter is useless. A friend of mine has an Art Carr (sp?) and it makes it so much BETTER. It's setup so that it's easy to hit neutral to stop, or if you hit it hard it'll go to reverse (but not park) for when you've got the flipping over backwards feeling. Had I not tried it out I wouldn't even consider it. I HATE the POS shifter in my XJ.

That looks really well preserved.

I agree. And they sound alright.

A lot of guys go 231/231. I probably wouldn't. Or if I did, I'd use a 231C for the second case as it has a wider chain and 6-pinion planetaries... I think you can get away with it if you neither drive totally crazy nor weigh an absurd amount.

Mine too. Image Not Found Until I got rid of it. Stupid tow-hooks get caught on everything.

2.5s don't make power. But they'll haul anything providing you have the patience - and the same for the guys behind you. Personally I can't stand the 2.5 as it is. I'd probably get bored while driving and fall asleep.

Yeah, I knew that was the appeal. I guess guys run them in their street/strip cars often enough - but I assume they aren't stock trannies? Not that it matters - if I make 250HP I'll be suprised. I have to admit I got converted to wheeling with an auto. It just happens that I could just pull a 4.3/700R4/NP231C all as one for about $300.

That depends how long your links/panhard is and how much travel you wish to see out of the suspension. As a typical LA setup travels the axle only moves forwards and back a couple inches (flex steer is the term) which even with a stock (or near stock) length track bar and a bushing will not have any appreciable bind. Move the axle forwards 3-4", and keep the track bar brackets in the same place, with a bushing I'd definatly foresee some binding - so a cartridge joint would work better there. Buuuuuut - that's just factoring in flex steer. Throw in the horrid castor change typical of radius arms and you might just cause some binding. But, in summary I'd say that for most people it is fairly unnecessary. If you want to spend the money and are going high-end - go right ahead. If you're cheap then who cares.

Just curious.

I dunno how you guys get $100 for your's. $50 is more reasonable around here... And I've seen them with HD SYEs for only $200.

I always take XJ/MJ bumpers off at the unibody. Those bolts aren't torx and aren't as likely to be seized.

It's probably worth that in scrap alone.

I'd either glass bead or aircraft strip them. You want the real aircraft paint stripper. The non-ferrous metal one (ie, aluminum). That is, if you can find it. Which is probably not likely. The generic 'aircraft stripper' does work in its stead. Anyways, it actually works best in a cool place out of the sun - inside a garage for instance. Brush on, let sit. When I say let sit, I mean feel free to wander off for an hour or two if you want. Then take a brass brush and scrub the painted area with it. Then rinse with a hose. One application won't get it all, it never does. But if you scrub it with a brass brush you should only need two at most. Oh yeah, while scrubbing wear some goggles - and a good set of non-latex gloves are nice. Oh, Eagle, AC stripper isn't acid. It's something FAR worse. However, water renders it totally neutral. We strip everything that's large outside on the grass next to the spare parts hanger and our personal aircraft float junkyard... Anyways, it won't hurt your lawn or anything like that - but the goopy paint residue that will be left on it is just kinda gross. And if you want to glass bead them, it'll leave them in a matte finish. Find a u-blast-it and it'll only cost $20-30 at most. It is a pretty painless way to take the paint off though.

Yar. And because of that tire manufacterors and (more importantly) tire shops often have charts which stipulate what size of rim you need for a given tire - and they won't always allow a deviation from the chart. Which can cause headaches.

I agree on bypassing the resistor to rule it out. That's normally what causes that.

One of my friends had one of those blow away on him. It got plastered to the side of a house a ways down the street.

Don't use the flexing thread crap... Well, you can get away with it in the short term - a couple years depending. And if you grease them religiously. But when they fail it ain't pretty.

How about the stock jeep turbines? They don't look bad - and I betcha they'll fit!