DirtyComanche

I say flog it. Mine has about HALF of its life being 4wd on the street. There was only minimal chain stretch, and no other signs of damage. But, 4wd on the pavement really isn't necessary most of the time!

Unless it isn't factory, no. The Eaton 20 was only in 86. Otherwise they're D35s or D44s. FWIW, South America export versions optionally have D44 fronts. (At least on XJs) But I doubt we'll see that.

Maybe I'll narrow it down as that's an overwhelming list... The 4wd front axle on ALL MJs is the high-pinion Dana 30. For your 88 year, the rear axle is most likely a D35, but potentially a D44. If your rear axle's cover is egg-shaped it is a D35. If it is the retarded diamond (see pictures...) then it is a D44.

I know it looked entirely like I didn't read any of the thread. But I did. The difference between SOA and SUA is a half hour with the welder. Although I'd budget a day the way I work... Unless he threw out all the old spring plates and etc. And stock sucks. But it's a great way to learn not only that stock sucks, but how to wheel or drive.

I'd just leave it stock for now and learn why stock sucks. Then upgrade.

A few things I'd consider: -Bad pump -Wrong pump -Bad lines -Bad box Bad pump - the parts store sold you a POS. It happens. Somebody forgot to rebuild it correctly, maybe because they're paying them $.04/hr in china. Wrong pump - the guy behind the counter sold you the wrong one. Just 'cause it bolts up doesn't mean it works. They're common design. Some are ment for much different belt speeds, which might explain why it works when you rev it up... Bad lines - you said no bad leaks, so it kinda rules this out. Unless there's an internal restriction (blockage) in the high pressure line - in which case the pump will go into bypass instead of blowing the line apart. Does the pump whine constantly? Bad box - they're complicated. They break. Did it work BEFORE you replaced the pump? Even if it was leaking?

Old $#!& often has no title or papers. Doesn't mean it'll be a problem. My uncle built up a GPW that he found in a field - the registration was far less of a hassel than ANY of the rest of it.

Well, not really. The weight of you and the fuel (full tank) would probably cause it to be an inch off - but if you get out and still notice it then the springs are just being evil. Personally I'd hit the junkyard and grab 2 stock coil isolators and put them on the low side. Or, I'd leave it be. Mine leans about 1.5" because of my bent springs... And I can't be bothered to fix that!

Looks good. That white stuff (lime?) seems to like to stick to the tires.

Here in Canada all we do is go to the post office and ask for American postage. The post office usually has American stamps for what ever we need to send. Exactly. And they can weigh, measure, crumple, and give you an exact amount of postage needed. You might have to wait in line for a half hour though.

Pfft. It can take it! Mine is living proof of that. It's just hard on the tires, u-joints, axleshafts, gearsets, side/spyders, the tcase chain... Whatever. The tires will chirp a bit.

Bored TB comes to mind. You can DIY it for cheaper. Or, a cone intake, and air tube.

Likely the day I die, my friend, the day I die.... :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: You can't take it with ya! I say ENJOY IT!!! CW Well, you can always have it buried with you. The Egyptians tried it. And even if they're wrong, at least then nobody else can enjoy it :D

Well, the exhaust fell off my XJ yesterday. I had to help it along a bit because it was rattling on the axle. Now it's just a cat and no muffler. And boy does it sound ghey. I'll probably have to go cut the cat off too just so I can live with it for the next 2 days.

Okay, this works. Now I only need to start collecting parts. Or get a new brain. What I'm thinking - Build everything light. Buick 231 (propane and some mild performance work) - 700R4 - NP231C (wider chain, 6 pinion planetaries, blah blah...) And throw it on a new chassis. CHP 9's are about $800 for a complete third I think... It's hard to say wether to build a 609 front with 35 spline inners and outers using those thirds or not. If I break them I could go to a true hi-9 at a later point. Alternativly I could run 31~ spline inners and D44 outers. Ah hell. It's money down the toiled either way. Or, I will be smart and not build anything since my MJ does currently work. It even works fairly well.

Do you ever stop buying stuff?

Apparently the 2.8L S-10s had 700R4s. But I'm gonna have to look into that.

Slush-box = auto.

What bolts up? I can think of the TF-904, the 30RH, and a select few AW4s. Anybody know of anything else? Anybody know what came in the 2.8L S-10s (that would bolt up)?

You can for a MJ/XJ too. I've NEVER seen a kit to do it, or it mentioned for or by anybody with a smaller lift. But you can shim about .250" more length to the LCAs. Maybe a hair more if you drill a little. But if one wanted the shims, the junkyard has lots. Most XJs come with at least 2 shims, or more. My MJ had 4 from the factory.

There's not much to it. Go buy some welding cable - there's a chart to determine the correct size, but I think I used 0? Run the positive to the starter and the negative to a good ground point or back to the engine ground.

I don't like having to jab the brakes when going down the hill. :D Also, if anyone is having problems with a clutch and a hill, they don't have enough gearing. :brows: If you can lock out first and the TQ you can compression brake. But I was driving the MJ around today (new rear driveshaft - I can go fast!) and I realized how much I do compression brake because I can. Well, and because the brakes still blow because I haven't replaced the master.

Lots of people think stiffer springs are better. Honestly, I don't.

Better tires help too. Oh, umm, maybe you've got a brake biasing issue.

So are stiffer. And give lift. Others aren't.