DirtyComanche

Looks like what I need.

I'd just go at it with a total disdain for anything... Take some WD-40.

I have dual taurus fans.

Is it really that clean?

Even then they seem to hold up... There's guys on naxja that ran them out of oil and it didn't kill them :nuts:

I don't know what type of carb they used, but I'm almost tempted to say they put quadrajets on those engines. If not, it's a standard square bore setup. Either way, there's two routes... Dual fuel - This limits you to finding an Impco 300A mixer - which are quite commonly found in junkyards on dual fuel vehicles (look for work vans and work trucks). AFAIK they're all the same other than some updates over the years. They simply bolt to the top of the existing carb. You then need a lock-off valve for the gas line (electric). And you'll want an impco model E vapourizer/regulator with an electric lockoff valve. A tank and some liquid/vapour hose is all you need beyond that. Straight propane - Figure out if it's a standard square bore intake or the quadrajet style (big primaries, small secondaries). Then track down a mixer with the correct baseplate pattern. If you get the wrong one they make adapter plates for very little. Both Impco 425s and OHG 450s could be found with either base. Almost every propane V8 will have one or the other. The OHG 450s have a problem with richening up as they age but can be rebuilt to fix this. Again, a model E regulator is the best bet (they're also the most common), and you can use either a vacuum or electric lockoff valve. Add tank and a couple hoses. You'll need to advance the timing a bunch - 10-15* IIRC. If you want to do it, I'd look into the provincal inspection rules. Often they won't certifiy junkyard tanks unless they are re-tested. Which costs a few bucks. And often you can't get a fill without having proof of inspection (decal). As a tip - find a vehicle that had been inspected and steal the decal. Also, to actually get it tuned to run correctly will require some professional help. But it doesn't take long for them to dial it in correctly.

They're a LOT stronger than a waggy frame. People knock the unibody design, but it does do quite well. At least, when it comes to dealing with a loading from the seuspension - which they were engineered for. Slamming it on rocks will kill it fast in that the sheetmetal they're made of isn't really thick enough to withstand that. But, IIRC, the waggy frames are a C channel design - which is really not very strong compared with the box style frame of a MJ. Although I could check that on the frame diagrams I have for them. Anyways, the FSJ guys are always bitching about how they bent their waggy/J-10 frames. Besides, I saw it happen. We taco'd one pretty good on a free waggy - and broke the transmission apart doing it.

I'd convert it to propane if I had one... At least then it's 10mpg of CHEAP fuel. I dunno about your area, but they go lower than that here. But if it's mint, I guess it's a good deal. Oh, don't jump it. They have weak frames...

You bleed it by taking the cap off and pulling a couple donuts, then adding more coolant, then doing a couple more donuts, add more coolant and throw the cap back on. Going up and down a steep hill works too.

If it has a 4.0, it'll have an AW4. They're good. You can get a manual shifter for them if you want to be able to lock out 1st gear. And they do benefit from an aftermarket tranny cooler, but it's not like it's absolutely necessary.

That's a closed system. The fill is in the bottle up by the windshield - hopefully. The cap on that bottle, and the bottle itself, have to be airtight. There is NO overflow on this system, and if there is one - somebody has been f'ing with it.

There's a lot of deffective ECTEDs floating around. Almost all of the first run of them for the D44 only work intermittantly or not at all... Apparently they fixed that for the second run. The good news is that they're supposed to be very good about exchanging them; so you should have no trouble getting another. I'm too poor for selectables... Spools never fail you.

Somebody rebuilt the tcase without the shift fork return spring...

The JD2 is probably the most common bender because of its price. Like any bender (other than pipe benders) the dies will be expensive. I think the JD2 dies are more than the bender... It is a fully manual bender - so I hope you're patient and have strong arms. Theres a homebuilt bender on pirate. It uses the same dies as the JD2 - but is a lot nicer because it is hydraulic (jack style - but you canb make it hook up to a power pack if you want to spend money). The plans cost $20 or something. A lot of the guys I know use chop saws for notching. It works pretty well actually. But, there's notchers that hook up to a drill that can be had for about $80. The only problem is some of them use a funny thread for the hole saw - so you have to buy THEIR hole saws. Which gets expensive.

Yeah... Only because it took my so long.

Every overheating problem I've ever had with 4.0 MJs/XJs is because either I blew the lower rad hose off (umm, long story...) or the plastic bottle decided to go bang. The best one was when I was 1 hour from home and the plastic bottle ruptured... Just a tiny crack, but it wasn't holding pressure and I was losing coolant. The hot coolant sprayed on my alternator - killed it. So I drove to a gas station, let it cool off and bought lots of coolant. Then I limped it back home driving a ways and stopping to add coolant and let it cool off (all the time the battery running down) until I made it back... It was misfiring like hell coming down the last hill to my house. I shut it off in the driveway and tried to start it again and the battery was so dead it couldn't even throw the starter solenoid completely...

I left it. I was going to get a E350 master but I haven't had time to deal with it (it's $100 w/core new, so I have to roadtrip to the pick'n'pull - and the rear driveshaft is what stops it from being street friendly anyways). They work - offroad use only. Actually, I drove it on the street too... Between downshifting and hitting the brake pedal twice I can get it stopped! Without having the massive D44 pistons up front it might work alright with the stock master cyl. Put the porportioning valve to full open and give it a try perhaps? If not, a ZJ master SHOULD work better. And I think some years can be used as a bolt in. I've been VERY happy with this axle thus far. We'll see in spring though, when the snow leaves the higher ground... If something's gonna give, I'll find it soon enough. Or I'll blow something else up first.

It's 58.5" vs uh, 59~. Or maybe 59.5"... I got a set of 1" spacers for when toyota fags do a SAS and threw them on it and it's the same width as my front now (61.5"). Tires still rub the frame...

Eagle will know... But, if there is a difference all of the offending hardware can be swapped.

T4s and T5s suck. But, yeah, one with the correct bellhousing/input/output will replace an AX-4 or AX-5 - AFAIK. And an AX-15 can replace the BA10/5 - there's some tricks to it.

Hazard country is in Nova Scotia?

With a 2.5L on the street.

If you get some factory LCA shims you could probably get away without new LCAs. I don't know the lengths at hand, but, you probably have 2 (per side) shims stock and IIRC they're .188 and you can realistically go to 5... For a hair over 1/2" adjustment... But I'm sure there's people that will point out that's the 'wrong' way to fix it.

They fixed the spelling of comanche on that page because of me... Umm, I'd not bother. They're heavy... Embrace the carnage... Besides, stock fenders kinda bend and pop back half the time.

Brake lines...