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Everything posted by DirtyComanche
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spray bomb paintjob
DirtyComanche replied to comancheman's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Another trick is for the first coat or two is to use the nozzle top off a spray on bedliner or other high application can. It speeds up things a LOT. Just don't let it run... -
Well, not good. Not ideal. Not even something I'd ever want to deal with. But - it will actually hold together like that. For a while at least. If you spin it over by hand do the gears still mesh at that point? It'll go click and the pinion will spin freely for a little while if they aren't. If that's the case - don't even think of using it. Otherwise WTH, it'll last a while on the street. You'll know when its time is up. But don't dare wheel it or do clutch dumps or burnouts or etc... So, your junkyard got warantee? My u-pull-it does...
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Nah. YJs are HP. They gayed over the TJ axles. But he doesn't want the housing, jsut the shafts. I hope. Unless he likes leaf springs!
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Stock rear MJ leaf measurement?
DirtyComanche replied to BARILLMS's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Nope. -
They do. Most competitions require it for this reason. And yeah, it is way lighter. The problem with running it on a trail rig is keeping it clean. Any dirt/mud that gets trapped in the line acts as an abrasive and just the stretching of the rope in use causes it to wear heavily. Most of the comp guys that avoid mud like the plauge still have to replace their rope every year as it simply becomes too frayed and failure prone. It also has to be protected from external abrasion - normally with a cover and by not routing it stupid. However, if you f' up and do break it - it can be tied back together providing you know what you're doing. If saving the weight, avoiding getting pricked, and wanting some added safety, outweighs the inherent higher cost of it (due to life) - then more power to ya. I never use my winch anyways. Hence it isn't on the truck. Best of everything that way!
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I would be very concerned then... Lengthening a unibody and bad welds aren't really a good combination.
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I have one of those (yeah, my seats don't match). I like it, I can see the ground in front of the hood easier.
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Why'd you go synthetic?
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Stock rear MJ leaf measurement?
DirtyComanche replied to BARILLMS's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Pete has a thread where he compared them to exploder leafs. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... s+explorer I think it says in there. -
School me on (bedless) Comanche's
DirtyComanche replied to binderbart's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
There's a guy on here with a 100" WB MJ. He built a new frame from the cab back IIRC. To actually make a 4-dr XJ/MJ with the bed not welded to the body is a bish. Typically people jsut take a 4dr Xj and cut the back window area off and either re-install the lift gate (metal gates only) or use a chunk of MJ cab to fix the hole. Actually, no matter how you do it they're a bish. NAXJA has a couple builds where they did things like that. -
FWIW I don't have a cat. And just run a cherry bomb (straight through glasspack). It's not loud. My friend with an LT1 in his YJ laughs at it when I start it. :roll: Anyways, with the stock exhaust I obliderated the cat after it had a few issues. And I had a pry bar and a bit too much spare time. Exhaust volume increased somewhat. It sounded like your typical quiet car at that point. My intake was still about 10X louder than the exhaust. I think with a straight through cat one would have a similar experience. Then I obliderated the muffler on a rock. It made a really loud buzzing that made me want to kill people. So I removed it. It had three obvious effects - a loss of low end, a gain of mid-high, and it was forking loud. Annoying forking loud. After that I picked up the cherry bomb and bent up the new exhaust. It works fine, low end is back and the high end works well enough. It's not over-restricted (stock) or under-restricted (no exhaust).
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rocketwheels "Sgt.Rock" Comanche....
DirtyComanche replied to rocketwheels's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I like the camo. I should do my DD in it. -
Didn't see a single MJ. And it had no tech articles!
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My rebuild (some humongo pics)
DirtyComanche replied to feerocknok's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Wow, that head sure did crack! Good thing you've got the warantee... How much can you milk them for on the install? Book time? Can't be like "well, it took 5 days..." -
Nah, I think they're just going to designate a couple lanes in the centre of the highway for whatever-they-call-this use only. Sorta like the HOV lane, jsut you can't buy a couple blow up dolls to use it.
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Sarge is coming together slowly
DirtyComanche replied to carnuck's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I always wanted a J. I keep checking out this J20 but it's overpriced. So I have to wait and hope the owner has a financial crisis and wants it gone. -
I hope better is the same better that I think.
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Well... I don't think they ment to build a highway. Maybe in a figurative sense. The idea was to streamline the paperwork so that goods could be passed accross the country without having taxes applied or having to deal with customs and blah blah blah. Basically so that you could actually get something shipped from A to B without it taking two months. NAFTA is retarded. Canada should have posted notice a LONG time ago and gotten out of it. Unfortunatly, the last government had their own agenda (making themselves rich) and the current one sucks up to the cross border politicians. Okay, so I made a political post. I probably won't do it again.
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Apparently it hasa power rear window too. And that's a feature you don't see on modern trucks!
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http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=63771 I think it's sweet.
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motor for future
DirtyComanche replied to dirty88comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Both the 4.0 and 2.5 don't really die. Well, eventually they will. But they'll smoke, leak, run weird, not have any compression, etc, but still be perfectly driveable and continue to even make alright power. It's when you start seeing metal in the oil that you know it's getting near the end. Anyways, I'd just build a 4.0 to match whatever was in it. If it had a renix, build a renix. If it had a HO - build that. If it had a 2.5 accept that you are eternally damned from making any power and either build a 4.0 (plus a drivetran) or build a 2.5. -
I'd go 3/16. I think. 1/4 is absurd. As in, you'll destroy something FAR more critical before wrecking your rails.
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Hit up a body shop and see if they have a listing in their catalouges. They often have shoddy quality stuff avaliable and, better yet, at an absurd price. Just get a quote on that (plus install) and take that in for the insurance.
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I don't think the insurance company will be big on that... But, phone up a body shop and get a quote on the new bumper and just take the cash instead and then build your own. Or however it works with your insurance. Oh, I think detours makes a rear bumper? Dunno.
