DirtyComanche

I WANT! It's alreayd @#$%ed so it's not like everything I'm going to do to it won't make things any worse.

If you want half-decent shocks that you can get over the counter anywhere... The monroe catalouge offers ALL their lengths, end styles, and I think even some information on the valving. I found some in there that are 13" travel... Now to see if I can build them into coil-overs.

I've got what you want somewhere. It's in my picture folder somewhere.... If 87 can't help you out I can track it down.

Yeah. I plumber's strapped the stockers to the bed. Call me lazy. I know it's the truth. Oh, something in the EFI kicked the bucket on my wheeling trip this weekend. It drove fine all the way there - way better than I expected. Then I messed around for about 10 minutes, went to climb a rock ledge, and it died. No spark, no fuel.... Gonna have to start playing with parts to see WTH happened. The worst part was I got towed home by a toyota. Oh, I scaled it, it weighs about 4200lbs with me and gear. The scale was a single axle type and read in kilograms, so fudge that number by 5%.

For both, look on the top of the casting in the centre section - in one of the ribs by the pinion. It will be labelled 'D50' 'D60' 'D61' etc. (normally) D50s would be a good axle if they had aftermarket support. I looked into bucking one down and retubing the short side to make a HP rear axle. Unfortunatly you'd be stuck with D44 sized shafts unless you want to get very custom with the machining. D61s can work for some ratios as the aftermarket offers gearsets/shims/carriers to deal with the offset problem. They're still a PITA and should only be taken if cheap - look into the problems with them before buying one.

If you want it to last - use TREs. The chevy '1-ton' stuff (it's actually found on 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks.) does a very good job for the price. JCR offroad makes a setup with these that they sell CHEAPER than I can buy the TREs for - and they include a drag link and tie-rod that's the right length. Unfortunatly I'm still too cheap to run this sort of steering. (To be fair, Parts Mike Part's can also hook you up on the TRE setup with the reverse taper and all the other jazz. I think he'll do the tubing too. Good guy to deal with - so I threw his name out there) If you want it to have a bit more range before bind, and longevity isn't a huge issue - use a heim. Not the el-cheapo ones that you pick up at the farm supply - they actually have less mis-alignment than a TRE. You need the quality ones with the spaces and all the other jazz. Oh, and please put a safety washer on them - even if you don't street it. Will a chevy TRE thread into a jeep tie-rod? No. The stock tie-rod is a POS and should be thrown away anyways.

Image Not Found Image Not Found Pretty much all I've got. It's not very complicated or anything. Image Not Found

Do you want the LWB one? It's on my photobucket... I also have the close ups of the body mounts and some other jazz or something. And YJ and SJ frames...

He's got 16s on the truck right now, I think. Uh, they'd probably retail at about $160 a tire.

This one? Image Not Found There's a couple more on my photbucket, showing other things. Uh, that's a short bed too.

I posted them a few times. Uh, search for my posts, and 'FAQ' - I know they're in that thread somewhere along the way... It's only 3 pages. I'd link you my photobucket - but it crashes IE.

Wheeling in abandon railway country = f'd tires. The spikes go right through. Oh, that looks like a sheetmetal screw to me :dunno:

Ohmygawd! CUT sheetmetal. He actually suggested c-c-c-cu-cu-cutting the body! :eek: Did you ever see the pictures of my inner fenders? Image Not Found I kinda doubt there's any going back on that :roll:

There's always 1-tons for sale as whole trucks. It is the cheap way to get them. You just have to have the space, time, and willingness to do it that way.

Either way it's a D35 and it's not worth the rubber or the steel in the plug.

Nope. But if buddy's YJ is drive-able by this weekend we're gonna go run some rock (finially no more snow... er, sorta) and I'll get some pictures then.

No, they don't. XJs built in Venezuela for their local market had dana 44 fronts. The rest of South America got XJs and MJs right of the same assembly lines in the US of A that ours came from. I know that to be the case because my wife is from Chile and I have a friend in Chile who owns an XJ. And there are a LOT of older XJs down there I've looked over pretty carefully. Another urban legend ... down the tubes. Okay, well, it was only ones from venezuela that I'd ever seen. I actually assumed that all of the S. America ones were built there. Meh.

I THINK that the dual slider is an aftermarket peice ment to fit in place of the single slider (3-peice) window. But. Ask Eagle.

I actually drove my MJ to work. But anyways, on the way home I stopped to throw more air in the tires (genuine competition used rims - they leak like mad) and while letting it idle a fellow in a FSJ N/T Cherokee Chief pulled up and got out and walked up to the back of the truck and me. He didn't realize it was a MJ - not a toyota - and was just attracted by the 37s. He starts asking me about how I like the tires and other jazz... All of a sudden he walks up to the front end and goes "Holy $#!&. This thing is a Jeep? What the hell rear axle is that?" :D Made my day.

Yup. Everybody has a different taste. And all you guys told me I would be switching from my MT/Rs back to BFG MTs :roll: Apparently procomp has a pretty good rep for 'street friendly' non-hardcore tires. A friend of mine bought some a while back. He doesn't have a truck to put them on though...

I say flog it. Mine has about HALF of its life being 4wd on the street. There was only minimal chain stretch, and no other signs of damage. But, 4wd on the pavement really isn't necessary most of the time!

Unless it isn't factory, no. The Eaton 20 was only in 86. Otherwise they're D35s or D44s. FWIW, South America export versions optionally have D44 fronts. (At least on XJs) But I doubt we'll see that.

Maybe I'll narrow it down as that's an overwhelming list... The 4wd front axle on ALL MJs is the high-pinion Dana 30. For your 88 year, the rear axle is most likely a D35, but potentially a D44. If your rear axle's cover is egg-shaped it is a D35. If it is the retarded diamond (see pictures...) then it is a D44.

I know it looked entirely like I didn't read any of the thread. But I did. The difference between SOA and SUA is a half hour with the welder. Although I'd budget a day the way I work... Unless he threw out all the old spring plates and etc. And stock sucks. But it's a great way to learn not only that stock sucks, but how to wheel or drive.

I'd just leave it stock for now and learn why stock sucks. Then upgrade.