mjcanoe

CEThomas, might not matter now, but OEM used silicone (Mopar) which was just grey silicone available from local parts store. anaerobic sealers seal, but remain pliable, so they may work. have rebuilt many t/cases over the years on jeeps & always found silicone sealer from factory instalation. never had a leak w/ grey silicone at all. factory manual calls for a 3mm(1/8') bead on frt. half of case w/ dowel pins removed, then install dowels. every other need for sealer calls for silicone also. hope this helps. mjcanoe

project88mj, d35's & d44's did come w/lsd as an option for your year/model. the easiest way to verify if it is one is by the extra tag on the diff cover. it is short, attached by 1 bolt, usually @ the 10:00 position. it warned you needed additive. sometimes last person who had cover off failed to put tag back. next step would be to jack up rear end & spin tires/hub forward, if lsd both will turn forward while you have someone place resistance on opposite side. standard d35 or d44 will have opposite side spin opposite direction. hope you find one. d44 is stronger, but my '86 still runs a d35,only problem i've ever had was blowing up spider gears while i ran 3.55 ratio & 32" tires & thrashing it on the streets. changed to 4.10, no more problems. mjcanoe

comanche-man22, great find! you can use entire frt. clip, doors if 4 door, frt.axle & suspension, engine & trans with electonics & harnesses, complete interior,center console on xj won't have filler in trim cover, inner trim at frt. w/shield pillers. windshield & trim, t/case & i believe frt. d/shaft. following items could be used w/ mods: rear axle, head liner & other small misc. items, ie: vacuum lines, feul evap, etc. mjcanoe

you guys are right. my 1st boss @ dealership when i was starting out made this observation, "the more you learn, the easier it is to forget the simple solution" i guess it still sneaks up & bites me @ times. mjcanoe

pingpong, 4.3l sounds like good swap. my problem was that since i did not want to swap frt. header panel from '86 to later model lenght was an issue for me. the width of the AMC v-8 put it to far forward,tho well ahead of the indentation of firewall for 4.0l. left me no room for rad. i used a early '70's h/d rad. out of a 302ci comet. plus i tend to be a "purist", wanting oem if at all possible. mjcanoe

erthmun, for grill/brush guard, i found that a unit from a nissan pathfinder or pick-up from the "hardbody" era bolted up nicely to stock bumper. i just had to move the headlight bars up about to inches from original spot to clear headlamps. got mine used form cust. for $50.00. sorry,no pictures yet. mjcanoe

JohnQ, another simple way is to remove heater hose from t/stat housing & fill @ bottle w/ coolant, similar to previous suggestion w/ sensor removal. it would help to have frt. of mj "uphill" if possible. once you have a steady flow (w/ engine off) out of t/stat, slip hose back on, fill coolant res. to about 2/3rds full. start & allow to warm up, you can leave cap off as this method allows it to gravity bleed. then just monitor coolant temp. @ guage & as warms up, slowly remove t/stat hose to allow air out. when guage starts to move, shut off & repeat, then cap. rarely have to worry about trapped air doing it this way. easier to do then write. mjcanoe

I considered swapping in a 304 or 360 AMC on my '86 mj after i yanked 2.5l, but chose not to after doing mock-up. had clearance issues @ firewall i did not want to deal with. but, as we've often heard, you can do anything w/ enough time & $. exhaust & f/wall clearance will be biggest issues as i recall. mjcanoe

FYI, On the d35's that came w.rubber plug that tended to shrink as age set in & caused oil seepage, problem can be repaired by using the drain fill plugs (30mm wrench) from 231 &/or 242 t/cases. just buy tap the correct size & thread pitch & tap existing stamped hole in cover w/cover removed. must be tapped straight or it will leak worse. use t/c drain plug & no more leak or seep. I purchased my tap from local tool supply for about $30.00, so maybe get local guy's to share cost. as mechanic my tool purchases are tax write off. mjcanoe

feerocknok, Those sockects are interchangable w/newer models, sj's, cj's, yj's, even some gm units. they use a 194 bulb. you might even find new ones at a part store. mjcanoe

johngw43, eagle is on the mark w/ fluid contamination causing problems. That can be resolved temporaly/quickly w/ a cleaning from a quality brake cleaner, not carb cleaner. the terminals in the fuse panel can be "tweaked" w/ a pick to make the connection tighter. But, the main issue after cleaning is to determine what the "common denominator" is. in other words, do any of your problems arise from the same fuse/circuit ? I will check my manuals tonight & get back to you asap. mjcanoe

CEThomas, there is no seal between as mentioned. there is one for trans., either manual or auto, & there is one for t/case. they are not the same & if you need p/n, a good parts store could match w/ seals you remove. if not, i could get oem p/n for you. mjcanoe

johngw43, did you get problem resolved? let me know. mjcanoe

jeepaholic, you do not have to remove trans to drop t/c. I do someting close to what jeepcoMJ mentioned. After removing all needed linkage & shafts, just drop the drivers side of Xmember & loosen passenger side. Then use "flex" 9/16 or 14mm to remove top nuts. mjcanoe

dracon79, there are ground wires on the passenger side of block behind & above oil filter. I believe 2-3 wires on stud that dipstick tube bracket is attached to block. these will at times affect sensors. If you choose to go aftermarket gauge, get '91 up t/stat housing & add a "T" for that sensor. Works great for my mj. mjcanoe