DirtyComanche

Just buy a tank. If there's pinholes in it now, there will be more later. EBay, Rockauto, etc all have them.

Pretty regular design. Angle the parts that meet the fender flares more, or you'll be cutting them off later for tire clearance. Make sure a Hi-Lift can actually get under it safely in multiple places. Unless you have no intention of using it for that. Make sure the brackets that attach it go back as far as the holes for the tow hook, and pick up the steering box holes. Make sure there's inner plates too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Oil-Filter-Screw-Adapter-Fitting-2-5L-4-0L-53007563AB-Wrangler-YJ-TJ-LJ-XJ/202682844175?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item2f30d6c40f:g:5~sAAOSwlZ5c4Fe2&vxp=mtr Or probably this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Oil-Filter-Screw-Adapter-Fitting-2-5L-4-0L-53007563AB-Wrangler-YJ-TJ-LJ-XJ/202682844175?fits=Make%3AJeep&hash=item2f30d6c40f:g:5~sAAOSwlZ5c4Fe2&vxp=mtr Point is they're on eBay often enough. Search the OEM P/N and buy one that will ship to you.

Then get the standard standpipe and be done with it. Or be like me and buy 20 filters off rockauto when they're marked down.

Fram cheaped out in the early 2000s. Before then they were good. And as I said, it's really only their lowest end filters that suck for the most part. The 4.0 is also tough enough that it will likely survive using them... unless you have a total failure of the filter, which does happen. Pete was damn near to that happening. I don't see why you would use them when there is better filters for the same price or less.

Fram fixed some of their issues. And their higher end filters are actually decent. However they definitely make some not great cheap filters and there has been failures from them. That said I can easily get a dozen different brands of filters for the Renix, so I don't know why you would use a Fram.

Weld through primer and some access points to flood it with chassis saver, or something like that, are definitely needed. Seam sealing it after is also helpful... not that I ever seem to do that.

He also might be stupid. People see adds for them with ridiculous prices and think they're worth that. There was a 97+ with a rusted through roof, miled right out, and other issues (wouldn't shift into OD or something, I don't remember), it was local and the asking price was $1200. All I wanted was the doors and some odds and ends. I said I'd do $800 and show up with my trailer, no test drive and no further haggling. They said no. Two weeks later they were begging me to give them the $800, but nope, I'd gone to work and wouldn't be back for two more weeks. The guy wound up getting $500 for it because he needed the cash sooner than I'd be back.

Acetone will melt what is left. Looks like you're going to have some fun with that though.

You can mod them to fit. Somebody on here was selling them, IIRC.

Early (Renix) XJ/MJ gauges use 0-88 ohms for the sender. 0 is empty, 88 is full. In practice I find they're normally a little higher than that, similar to the GM 0-99 ohm setup that is super easy to find. Early HO (91-96) uses 88-0 ohms. 88 is empty, 0 is full. I have no idea why Chrysler did this, as I don't believe it even harmonized with any of their other vehicles. So yes, it reads backwards if a Renix cluster or sending unit is swapped. He needs the HO sending unit for it to work. The gauges also mount differnent so it's not as simple as swapping them between clusters. 97+ used the even more illogical 70-270 ohm sending units. Or something like that. That is harmonized with modern Dodge/Chrysler products, and also is an absolute PITA because it does not use 0 as a data point. Solutions really are to find a HO pump/sending unit, modify an XJ HO unit to work, or install a GM ranged universal unit into the tank separate from the current pump/sending unit assembly. The current sending unit should accept a FI pump from the 4.0L and it will make enough pressure.

The pump and sending unit that Rockauto lists is likely for an XJ and won't fit. No other advice.

Have you tried emailing corporate and explaining your problem? They might actually respond... I don't know what you'd do about it, other than maybe using the glove box as originally intended.

The 2.5L bottle is nice. I bought one for my 88 but haven't found a cap yet either. I'm going to have to try random oil bottle caps like was suggested.

I'll answer because it doesn't bother me and I get what your point is. Last year I made about $100k and didn't work the last couple months. This year I'm on track for about $120k. The most I ever made was $146k IIRC, least was about $82k (quit from there after that). That's in CAD, which was at or over par for some years, but lately has been well under. I'm considering working for an American operator again partly because of the dollar disparity; I'd likely make a bit "less" but in USD, so it effectively would be more. To do my job you literally only need a small bag of good tools that you use every day, plus a case of cheaper larger stuff, and a few odds and ends that should be of good quality, assuming you're working on the archaic crap that I do. If you're routinely doing heavy maintenance in the hangar you will want more stuff, which I have, but I don't even take most of it when I do hangar work normally. The comment for him to buy Strap-On for those wrenches was specific. It wasn't me swinging my "I've worked on helicopters" dick to pressure him into paying more for something when he doesn't need to. The SO wrenches in that form factor have a differnt angle on them than the comparables, or they did at least, they actually had a patent on the design, and they do work better than the comparables because of that. In this case "better" may mean the difference between it working at all versus not. Until this spring I had a set of import Craftsman combination wrenches that were ground down/mangled/etc that I bought when I was in high school (Craftsman in Canada has been made in Taiwan since the early 80s). I finally retired them for a set of new Mastercraft wrenches (more import stuff but nicer). People gave me crap for them but they always worked fine, and not caring if I had to grind them was nice. Some hangars you go into will have nothing but $20k SO boxes with $100k of financed chrome in them. These are hangar queens, and they do not do the work I do. If it makes them happy then fine, but that is not my world and I'm sure it never will be. Question answered?

Glowshift sells a fitting that almost certainly does the same thing: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/fuel-rail-adapter-4-an-thread-adapter-for-gm-vehicles/ Vibrant Performance has one too: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-16791/overview/

Buy them from Snap-On. 12 years working on helicopters.

I paid $75 for a used one that was cut out for me. I'd pay that again.

Anyone have a source for the original fitting? Seems like it's discontinued?

The D35 is only 2-5/8" tube diameter. But close enough.

Pull the distributor cap and check the contacts and rotor, clean with contact cleaner or similar and buff any corrosion off. Check the spark plug wires for cracks, damage or corrosion. Pull the plugs and check them for gap and condition. Fire it up and use brake cleaner (non-chlorinated pure heptane is best) to check for vacuum leaks. Then check sensors, grounds, fuel pressure, etc.

1) I believe you can reuse the D35 plates if you slightly slot the holes. I have never tried this, but the difference in the diameter of the axle tubes isn't a ton and there is already some wiggle room in the holes, so I believe it is plausible. 4) I would recommend the Truetrac. The only issue with them is they revert to being open if there is zero traction on one wheel, this is easy to combat in a rear application by gently applying the parking brake a few notches in the event you get stuck and it refuses to lock. They are seamless on road, and will help a lot offroad.

Did this start when you replaced the timing chain?

There's the outer housing, inner hub, and two bearings, plus a seal in some years. It's a few different parts and I believe you only have the inner hub part of it. I've never rebuilt them because you can buy a brand new Timken assembly for $65, when to buy the bearings and races alone from Timken it will cost you $50.

You can put new bearings in them. It's not really done because it's not considered to be economical. Edit. Yeah, you need more parts than the bearings I'm guessing.