DirtyComanche

He also might be stupid. People see adds for them with ridiculous prices and think they're worth that. There was a 97+ with a rusted through roof, miled right out, and other issues (wouldn't shift into OD or something, I don't remember), it was local and the asking price was $1200. All I wanted was the doors and some odds and ends. I said I'd do $800 and show up with my trailer, no test drive and no further haggling. They said no. Two weeks later they were begging me to give them the $800, but nope, I'd gone to work and wouldn't be back for two more weeks. The guy wound up getting $500 for it because he needed the cash sooner than I'd be back.

Acetone will melt what is left. Looks like you're going to have some fun with that though.

You can mod them to fit. Somebody on here was selling them, IIRC.

Early (Renix) XJ/MJ gauges use 0-88 ohms for the sender. 0 is empty, 88 is full. In practice I find they're normally a little higher than that, similar to the GM 0-99 ohm setup that is super easy to find. Early HO (91-96) uses 88-0 ohms. 88 is empty, 0 is full. I have no idea why Chrysler did this, as I don't believe it even harmonized with any of their other vehicles. So yes, it reads backwards if a Renix cluster or sending unit is swapped. He needs the HO sending unit for it to work. The gauges also mount differnent so it's not as simple as swapping them between clusters. 97+ used the even more illogical 70-270 ohm sending units. Or something like that. That is harmonized with modern Dodge/Chrysler products, and also is an absolute PITA because it does not use 0 as a data point. Solutions really are to find a HO pump/sending unit, modify an XJ HO unit to work, or install a GM ranged universal unit into the tank separate from the current pump/sending unit assembly. The current sending unit should accept a FI pump from the 4.0L and it will make enough pressure.

The pump and sending unit that Rockauto lists is likely for an XJ and won't fit. No other advice.

Have you tried emailing corporate and explaining your problem? They might actually respond... I don't know what you'd do about it, other than maybe using the glove box as originally intended.

The 2.5L bottle is nice. I bought one for my 88 but haven't found a cap yet either. I'm going to have to try random oil bottle caps like was suggested.

I'll answer because it doesn't bother me and I get what your point is. Last year I made about $100k and didn't work the last couple months. This year I'm on track for about $120k. The most I ever made was $146k IIRC, least was about $82k (quit from there after that). That's in CAD, which was at or over par for some years, but lately has been well under. I'm considering working for an American operator again partly because of the dollar disparity; I'd likely make a bit "less" but in USD, so it effectively would be more. To do my job you literally only need a small bag of good tools that you use every day, plus a case of cheaper larger stuff, and a few odds and ends that should be of good quality, assuming you're working on the archaic crap that I do. If you're routinely doing heavy maintenance in the hangar you will want more stuff, which I have, but I don't even take most of it when I do hangar work normally. The comment for him to buy Strap-On for those wrenches was specific. It wasn't me swinging my "I've worked on helicopters" dick to pressure him into paying more for something when he doesn't need to. The SO wrenches in that form factor have a differnt angle on them than the comparables, or they did at least, they actually had a patent on the design, and they do work better than the comparables because of that. In this case "better" may mean the difference between it working at all versus not. Until this spring I had a set of import Craftsman combination wrenches that were ground down/mangled/etc that I bought when I was in high school (Craftsman in Canada has been made in Taiwan since the early 80s). I finally retired them for a set of new Mastercraft wrenches (more import stuff but nicer). People gave me crap for them but they always worked fine, and not caring if I had to grind them was nice. Some hangars you go into will have nothing but $20k SO boxes with $100k of financed chrome in them. These are hangar queens, and they do not do the work I do. If it makes them happy then fine, but that is not my world and I'm sure it never will be. Question answered?

Glowshift sells a fitting that almost certainly does the same thing: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/fuel-rail-adapter-4-an-thread-adapter-for-gm-vehicles/ Vibrant Performance has one too: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-16791/overview/

Buy them from Snap-On. 12 years working on helicopters.

I paid $75 for a used one that was cut out for me. I'd pay that again.

Anyone have a source for the original fitting? Seems like it's discontinued?

The D35 is only 2-5/8" tube diameter. But close enough.

Pull the distributor cap and check the contacts and rotor, clean with contact cleaner or similar and buff any corrosion off. Check the spark plug wires for cracks, damage or corrosion. Pull the plugs and check them for gap and condition. Fire it up and use brake cleaner (non-chlorinated pure heptane is best) to check for vacuum leaks. Then check sensors, grounds, fuel pressure, etc.

1) I believe you can reuse the D35 plates if you slightly slot the holes. I have never tried this, but the difference in the diameter of the axle tubes isn't a ton and there is already some wiggle room in the holes, so I believe it is plausible. 4) I would recommend the Truetrac. The only issue with them is they revert to being open if there is zero traction on one wheel, this is easy to combat in a rear application by gently applying the parking brake a few notches in the event you get stuck and it refuses to lock. They are seamless on road, and will help a lot offroad.

Did this start when you replaced the timing chain?

There's the outer housing, inner hub, and two bearings, plus a seal in some years. It's a few different parts and I believe you only have the inner hub part of it. I've never rebuilt them because you can buy a brand new Timken assembly for $65, when to buy the bearings and races alone from Timken it will cost you $50.

You can put new bearings in them. It's not really done because it's not considered to be economical. Edit. Yeah, you need more parts than the bearings I'm guessing.

Silicone hose should be able to do that.

Also make sure the trans and/or tcase is in neutral. The clutch may be packed up with mud and hanging.

The engine also might be totally f'd and that starter is doing everything it can to turn it. Turning the engine with a big ratchet will tell you if this is the case in a hurry. More likely starter or bad cables.

Thanks! Oddball size, but I'm sure I can find some silicone elbows.

Lots of the import stuff is better now than it was in the past, and certainly will rival established brands. There's a big Stahlwille socket set on the FB market place I'm drooling to get. 100% do not need, but can not turn down.

Can somebody measure the outside diameter of the 4L HO throttle body? Or the inside of the intake elbow that goes on it? I think it's 2.5", but it might be 2.75". Trying to order an elbow to make a new intake... Without any parts in front of me.

Pretty normal for this to happen with the wrong length outer shafts or when the snap ring groove is in the wrong place. The ujoint will naturally want to self center when turning, but otherwise the shaft can walk in and out with the snap ring on the end really being all that sets where it will run. It probably took a few minutes and a few turns for it to try to center the ujoint, which forced the shaft into the bearing/spindle. Honestly I hate early D44 stuff because of all the different configurations.