DirtyComanche

The stock manifold is a header... Header = tubular manifold. There isn't a lot of power to be gained because the stock piece is not THAT bad. At least compared with say a 70s-80s Ford/Dodge/Chevy where a set of cheap headers will make 20+HP because the factory manifolds were complete junk. That Pacesetter one will actually make some power. Some of the other ones will be a very mild improvement over stock, if anything, and some of the direct replacement ones actually might be worse. You'll see a greater performance improvement from going to a better midpipe/tailpipe/muffler/cat. Also, with the Renix there is a lot less options for aftermarket exhaust. If you delete your EGR you can generally go to HO parts. However, I wasn't so lucky with the Amazon header I bought and had to swap to a HO intake and do some grinding.

Free pet!

Just watched the video. Looks good, sounds good. :thumbsup:

Your video must be cloaked and locked too. :rotf: I'm lost... Link wasn't there last night, and no evidence that it was... :dunno:

Umm, there is a ComancheClub.com page run by our very own that has been up for quite some time. It was just recently opened up for general discussion. It's just a page though, not a group, at least not that I could tell. I am totally Facebook retarded though. And I'm not even that old.

Your video must be cloaked and locked too. :rotf:

Why doesn't somebody start a new group? It's Facebook, that's what you do when you get upset on there, between posting cat pictures that is.

These guys will have one: https://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transfer_case_replacements_and_parts/np231.html Not that they list it there, you'll have to call them. Otherwise, if there's a local Jeep or 4wd club, ask them. I routinely toss out NP/NV tcases that are damaged, since they just kinda build up... Lots of guys have a bunch of extras and I'm sure they would part with a couple studs for very little. Or try a wrecker.

And I could be wrong on any or all of this. See previous comment about gin.

To expand on the soak time comment, basically heat/energy transfer is faster as the delta-T (temperature differential) is higher. To put it simply, if you microwave a bowl of water until it boils, and another until it hits 80*C, the boiling bowl will drop from 100* to 80* faster than the second bowl will drop from 80* to 60* (and that's while ignoring the effects of phase change from the boiling bowl). If coolant flow is low, there is enough time for it to cool considerably as it crosses the radiator, meaning that by the time the coolant gets half way across the radiator it will have no where near as great of delta-T, and thus energy is not being transferred out of it nearly as fast. This is inefficient, as half of your radiator is not doing nearly as much 'work' as the other half. If you increase flow the coolant in the radiator will always be hotter, thus keeping the delta-T high, and will transfer more energy out in the same time period. A high flow pump excels for this, and will keep a system that is nearing saturation from boiling over (or reaching a dangerous temperature) simply by moving the hot coolant fast enough that enough efficiency is picked up across the whole radiator by the higher delta-T. Of course you actually need to be generating enough heat energy, and be shackled with a high enough ambient temperature, for it to matter first. And then we're back at the whole issue of regulating it given that both those things are variables. Racers have a lot of workarounds for this. Restrictors are something they use, but they may change them according to ambient conditions, and often they use them without a thermostat, or a thermostat that has a hole drilled in it or a bypass installed to allow for a minimum flow. Likewise, clipping pump blades changes flow, or filling certain water jackets to redirect flow, or changing the shape of the inlet or outlet housing. There's whole books written on it, some by people who knew what worked based on the theory, others by people who knew what worked by trying it.

But the improvement in efficiency is created by slowing the flow of coolant through the radiator so there's more time for the heat to be transferred from the coolant through the tubes and fins and into the air. That's the reason the racers trimmed the impellers -- to make the system move LESS coolant at high RPMs. That's essentially what the restrictor is doing, and it seems to counteract the purpose of a high flow water pump. From a perspective of thermodynamics, which is law, it is always more efficient to move the coolant fast. There is no need for a 'soak' or 'dwell' time to allow for energy transfer, as it is a closed system and the coolant is being recycled into the engine. It's all input BTUs vs output. What is happening here is the pump flows too much for the thermostat to operate satisfactorily. Instead of it allowing a trickle flow into the radiator, and thus a trickle flow of colder coolant back into the engine, rather as the thermostat opens there is a large 'slug' of cold coolant that is transferred into the engine. The resultant is shock cooling, and rapid shutting of the thermostat. The system (the engine) then has to bring this coolant back up to temp before the thermostat will reopen. Since the gauge is reading the back of the cylinder head, the area which is prone to poor flow and higher temperatures, it sees a different story than the thermostat does, since the thermostat is at the front where flow is higher, the end result is the coolant in the area of the sensor will become much hotter in the lack of flow situation caused by the thermostat shutting from the cold coolant slug. I am with you, a high flow waterpump is NOT always a good idea. This mod is effectively taking the high flow pump and turning it back into a normal one so the system is balanced correctly. If there was a better thermostat and housing design (look at the GM LS series of engines for example) there would not be a need for this mod with a high flow pump, which would also allow for the high flow pump to actually have 'high flow' in the event that the cooling system neared saturation and the thermostat was operating at full open continuously. If none of this made any sense it's because I got into the gin, and will explain better later...

It might not be ideal, but I don't think I'd call it bad. I'm guessing if you have excessive play it is because of something else. Worn out steering box (can be adjusted if you dare), worn TREs, ball joints, worn track bar or control arm bushings/bearings, etc. If you do the WJ knuckle and crossover setup you will need to change how the track bar mounts on one or both ends. Which isn't a bad thing, the axle side mount was put rather low from the factory.

I think he wants a vacuum can and not a charcoal can...

They're kinda cheap junk. And it's downright surprising how many wheels won't clear them. And like you said, there is no parts store equivalent. If you're putting many miles on I would buy a spare set to have on hand.

Or relocate the existing alternator to the Compressor location, and get it out of it's low, easy to submerge and jam with mud location, and put it way up high in the engine bay. I keep meaning to getting around to do this, haven't had a chance to hit the junkyard to find the correct bracket to start with.

Yeah, that can be the case. I've ordered parts to attempt a 'more cheaper more simpler' D44 disk brake conversion. There's a good chance I will fail at both things I'm attempting.

What are you intending to accomplish with a steering upgrade? Is it lifted so the geometry is bad, or do you want the steering to have less effort/stronger, or do you want it to be stronger in general?

I've dealt with those offset TREs before and the conclusion I've came to is I'd rather bend the tie rod than use them again... I'm guessing you need them in order to be able to install the drag link end in the WJ knuckle though?

You can live with stock control arms at 3 inches. Beyond that, either get drop brackets (if it's just for street use) or spring for adjustable control arms. Even at 3 inches I'd recommend an adjustable track bar. ^^^ At 3" there's enough room for additional shims behind the LCAs to correct your caster back to specs, so no adj. arms are necessary. 3" will also shift the axle a bit more than 1/2" off-center, so an adjustable track bar should be installed. Providing when you go to undo the lock nuts for the adjuster fork 'thinger' they don't just break off... It's a bit of a crappy design, at least if you're anywhere that has seen some salt.

I haven't done it, but apparently you can run into issues if you don't have much/any lift as the drag link is a little longer, but it's can be fixed by grinding a a bit off the threaded end of the drag link.

It should fit fine because between the drop bracket and drop pitman arm everything that's a potential issue should be fairly much where it was from the factory.

As long as it has the stock tie-rod and drag-link inverted-Y steering crap I don't think it would be an issue... Unless there is a raised track bar mount on the axle? I could see that causing issues.

Good to know, I didn't make an account since my browser autofills everything.

What Eagle said. As you've described it, you're setting it up for TDC on the exhaust stroke.

Win7 should allow for each of them to be set to a different resolution.