DirtyComanche

It's a short 23 spline input, so it will bolt to any 23 spline Jeep AW4, AX-15, NV3550, etc. Likewise it will bolt to the NWF setup, but call Kris? I think is his name, anyways, call NWF sales and ask, he does know what he's talking about. Same for any of the other doubler kits out there. It should work. You will need different yokes/output flanges. I don't think the JK case even has a speed sensor as it uses wheel speed sensors for everything. If you want a speedo the options would be to get an output flange style VSS and speedo that works with it (oh, that would be expensive), go to a VSS on one of the axles (if you have an ABS tone ring anywhere that can be done, also expensive and complicated), go to a GPS speedo (not terribly expensive, Autometer, Speedhut, etc all make them), use a free app on your cellphone and tape the phone to the dash (or use a holder, cheap either way), or mark the tachometer to indicate speeds in certain gears...

They're honestly not much (if any) different between brands. I bought RE ones because I can get them easier than other ones, nothing wrong with them (like most RE stuff). I wouldn't be worried as long as they came from any reputable manufacturer.

Doesn't work so well on an automatic. :rotf:

I tried a modern mirror swap. Did not go well. I actually got a 2nd gen Dodge Ram mirror on, and the improved visibility was amazing. However, to say it looked like Dumbo was a minor understatement. I actually looked at some Toyota mirrors and thought they might work, waiting to see if my friend ever gives them to me so I can try them.

The good thing about GM lock cylinders is you don't really need teeth on the keys. Or even the remotely right keys. Or sometimes even keys at all.

The problem with that thinking is that yes, that is the only real difference with the factory header, but there is other differences between the engines that may cause a problem with aftermarket parts. My cheap header hit the Renix intake, because the runners are much lower on it than on a HO intake. Of course the header I bought fit so poorly that it still didn't clear the HO intake either, but it was definitely close, as opposed to not even being possible. Also, the HO ones probably won't have the O2 bung in it, since it's normally in the downpipe/midpipe. But you would need to use that part from a HO anyways.

If you want to use a factory appearing switch, I think the fog light switch is the most robust of them. You could put it in the holder for the Power/Comfort switch though to maintain the appearance of that.

Yup. Some of my better work. ;)

You might want to think about finding a different rear axle rather than fixing that D35. Post some pictures up as you go. :thumbsup:

So yeah, of course I checked and the XJ is different, so there isn't really a lot of point... I still could, but the wire colour is NOT the same. But the way Oizarod115 said is super easy too, you just need a little more wire to get to where you want to put the switch. This is on an 88 4.0L, I only have 88/89 stuff around, but I do not believe this part of the wiring changed on 4.0L trucks. Ballast resistor is here normally: Image Not Found And here's a terrible How-to diagram: Image Not Found If somebody wants to see how it is actually done by splicing into the loom under the driver's doorsill area, like I said, I can show you on an XJ. The wire on it is Pink/black though, rather than Orange on a MJ.

The fuel pump shutoff? I can show you, I need a couple hours. But I can only show it on an XJ since I am not in any condition to tear the interior out of my MJ right now.

I seen the post you did on it and looked that one up. Did the flange give you as much trouble as you thought it would? I can't find the link to that thread but if i do i will post it up It's a long story. I cut it off and put a V-band flange on it. :rotf: I wound up building the entire exhaust system using the modded header, a band flange/clamp, an O2 bung from Summit, a box of bends, some straight pieces, and let's not forget the extremely expensive 'Pypes' muffler. I have no idea if a HO downpipe/midpipe would have fit on it, but I really think it probably had the wrong angle/position since the header they cloned is for 01+ applications (or something like that). The end of day reality was I needed to build the entire exhaust system from scratch anyways, everything else is a little too custom on that thing. Actually, I don't think I have bought a single part for it and actually had it bolt on without having to screw around with something to make it work. :doh:

The stock manifold is a header... Header = tubular manifold. There isn't a lot of power to be gained because the stock piece is not THAT bad. At least compared with say a 70s-80s Ford/Dodge/Chevy where a set of cheap headers will make 20+HP because the factory manifolds were complete junk. That Pacesetter one will actually make some power. Some of the other ones will be a very mild improvement over stock, if anything, and some of the direct replacement ones actually might be worse. You'll see a greater performance improvement from going to a better midpipe/tailpipe/muffler/cat. Also, with the Renix there is a lot less options for aftermarket exhaust. If you delete your EGR you can generally go to HO parts. However, I wasn't so lucky with the Amazon header I bought and had to swap to a HO intake and do some grinding.

Free pet!

Just watched the video. Looks good, sounds good. :thumbsup:

Your video must be cloaked and locked too. :rotf: I'm lost... Link wasn't there last night, and no evidence that it was... :dunno:

Umm, there is a ComancheClub.com page run by our very own that has been up for quite some time. It was just recently opened up for general discussion. It's just a page though, not a group, at least not that I could tell. I am totally Facebook retarded though. And I'm not even that old.

Your video must be cloaked and locked too. :rotf:

Why doesn't somebody start a new group? It's Facebook, that's what you do when you get upset on there, between posting cat pictures that is.

These guys will have one: https://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/transfer_case_replacements_and_parts/np231.html Not that they list it there, you'll have to call them. Otherwise, if there's a local Jeep or 4wd club, ask them. I routinely toss out NP/NV tcases that are damaged, since they just kinda build up... Lots of guys have a bunch of extras and I'm sure they would part with a couple studs for very little. Or try a wrecker.

And I could be wrong on any or all of this. See previous comment about gin.

To expand on the soak time comment, basically heat/energy transfer is faster as the delta-T (temperature differential) is higher. To put it simply, if you microwave a bowl of water until it boils, and another until it hits 80*C, the boiling bowl will drop from 100* to 80* faster than the second bowl will drop from 80* to 60* (and that's while ignoring the effects of phase change from the boiling bowl). If coolant flow is low, there is enough time for it to cool considerably as it crosses the radiator, meaning that by the time the coolant gets half way across the radiator it will have no where near as great of delta-T, and thus energy is not being transferred out of it nearly as fast. This is inefficient, as half of your radiator is not doing nearly as much 'work' as the other half. If you increase flow the coolant in the radiator will always be hotter, thus keeping the delta-T high, and will transfer more energy out in the same time period. A high flow pump excels for this, and will keep a system that is nearing saturation from boiling over (or reaching a dangerous temperature) simply by moving the hot coolant fast enough that enough efficiency is picked up across the whole radiator by the higher delta-T. Of course you actually need to be generating enough heat energy, and be shackled with a high enough ambient temperature, for it to matter first. And then we're back at the whole issue of regulating it given that both those things are variables. Racers have a lot of workarounds for this. Restrictors are something they use, but they may change them according to ambient conditions, and often they use them without a thermostat, or a thermostat that has a hole drilled in it or a bypass installed to allow for a minimum flow. Likewise, clipping pump blades changes flow, or filling certain water jackets to redirect flow, or changing the shape of the inlet or outlet housing. There's whole books written on it, some by people who knew what worked based on the theory, others by people who knew what worked by trying it.

But the improvement in efficiency is created by slowing the flow of coolant through the radiator so there's more time for the heat to be transferred from the coolant through the tubes and fins and into the air. That's the reason the racers trimmed the impellers -- to make the system move LESS coolant at high RPMs. That's essentially what the restrictor is doing, and it seems to counteract the purpose of a high flow water pump. From a perspective of thermodynamics, which is law, it is always more efficient to move the coolant fast. There is no need for a 'soak' or 'dwell' time to allow for energy transfer, as it is a closed system and the coolant is being recycled into the engine. It's all input BTUs vs output. What is happening here is the pump flows too much for the thermostat to operate satisfactorily. Instead of it allowing a trickle flow into the radiator, and thus a trickle flow of colder coolant back into the engine, rather as the thermostat opens there is a large 'slug' of cold coolant that is transferred into the engine. The resultant is shock cooling, and rapid shutting of the thermostat. The system (the engine) then has to bring this coolant back up to temp before the thermostat will reopen. Since the gauge is reading the back of the cylinder head, the area which is prone to poor flow and higher temperatures, it sees a different story than the thermostat does, since the thermostat is at the front where flow is higher, the end result is the coolant in the area of the sensor will become much hotter in the lack of flow situation caused by the thermostat shutting from the cold coolant slug. I am with you, a high flow waterpump is NOT always a good idea. This mod is effectively taking the high flow pump and turning it back into a normal one so the system is balanced correctly. If there was a better thermostat and housing design (look at the GM LS series of engines for example) there would not be a need for this mod with a high flow pump, which would also allow for the high flow pump to actually have 'high flow' in the event that the cooling system neared saturation and the thermostat was operating at full open continuously. If none of this made any sense it's because I got into the gin, and will explain better later...

It might not be ideal, but I don't think I'd call it bad. I'm guessing if you have excessive play it is because of something else. Worn out steering box (can be adjusted if you dare), worn TREs, ball joints, worn track bar or control arm bushings/bearings, etc. If you do the WJ knuckle and crossover setup you will need to change how the track bar mounts on one or both ends. Which isn't a bad thing, the axle side mount was put rather low from the factory.

I think he wants a vacuum can and not a charcoal can...