DirtyComanche

Out of that I will show these two pictures and explain what my complaint is about the Doomsday adapter. Like I said, if you really care you can find the whole write up, that includes some info beyond what is in the video, on 4x4North. The first is the bolt (CS cap screw more properly I guess) that is a problem. Since it's UNDER the flywheel and threads into the oil pan, if you ever need to pull the oil pan you would not only have to split the transmission off the engine, but you would also need to pull the clutch, flywheel, and the crank adapter off. That's a LOT of work only because the one bolt is installed that way. The one on the other side is not there, as I'll show in the other picture. This is the oil pan on the other side: Here you cut that part of the pan off for the starter to clear. Plus you can see the unused lower holes (there is no bolts in them) which I will probably drill out and drill/tap the adapter for when I need to go in there, which is likely to happen fairly soon. Maybe helicoil them too since it's just 6061 aluminum.

I'm not going to write out the adapter related tech here, it's in the video if anyone cares. Or you can find it on 4x4North in long form. Basically I broke down and bought the Doomsday one once he went into the actual production version. There is still some things I would change about it, and if I take it apart again (which I bet I will) I am going to drill/tap the adapter for the lower two oil pan bolts, drill out the threads in the pan, and install those bolts the "wrong" way and then omit the other bolt that's buried under the flywheel. Anywho, onto the more recent work. Video of bolting the adapter together with the transmission:

I forgot to update this thread. Video about the adapters that are available:

I didn't know they were selling those, likely because they're in the marine section that I rarely browse. I'll have to pick up a couple.

I'd think these would be the culprit.

I never understood the drinking age in the US. Anyways

All I can think of when I read the title.

Well that sucks. RIP John.

Slider preferably. Shipping is prohibitive though, so I'll probably just buy one off Rockauto (they can ship cross border super cheap because of their account).

If you can cut the rear windows out without breaking them, yeah, they're worth money. I need one actually.

Not reading the article. The names were chosen out of RESPECT though. Similar to how you have the Apache, Iroquois, Comanche (that they unfortunately did not take to production), Chinook, Kiowa, Lakota, and etc helicopters, along with fixed wing aircraft such as the Dakota, Choctaw, Huron, Mohawk, etc.

It's Canada. The sun ain't that hot.

That doesn't seem like a good thing. I'm betting there's a nice charbroiled wire back there. I'd think heated rear window. If sized incorrectly it could get hot enough to burn, but not actually fuse.

And I thought I had some bad ideas.

Given how cheap the repop MJ tanks are, and that MTS is now making the senders, the only justification for not going that route is if you're either doing a 97+ swap, or if you're insane. I'm in the second group.

That "frame stiffener" isn't worth the $10.

Buy an aftermarket track bar and bracket. Reusing the stock bracket is not worth doing. The stock setup works fine in a stock truck, but it does not hold up long term with larger tires and lift. As a FYI the new track bar you bought likely won't fit the bracket you have either. They changed the size of the taper of the TRE type joint in 91~ (or something) and almost all of the aftermarket ones do not fit the old style bracket without reaming it out with the correct taper reamer. Or maybe it was earlier than that. I don't remember, like I said it's not a good setup anyways. That Iron Rock track bar and bracket isn't a bad deal at $210. The comparable RE one (RE1660 and RE1665, since they sell it as two parts) is $260. Most of the steering upgrades sold for the XJ/MJ are hack and I would not recommend them. Depending how much if you have just going with the V8 ZJ/late model XJ parts and flipping the driver's side tie rod is an inexpensive and reliable option.

The Renix represents the pinnacle of simple EFI. It does everything it needs to, and nothing it doesn't. It's too bad we can't get into the ROM and play with things a little more.

That's super frustrating that they weren't more forthcoming about what they intended with the position ahead of time. Have you made a Linkedin profile, or any for similar services? Some moron looking for an IT job in Florida made one and used my email by accident (I'm guessing we have similar names and he formatted it wrong) and I often get a bunch of emails from headhunters, so the service must work.

Yup. Everything new is 5x5.

Test came back negative, so I'm going back to work tomorrow. Our client has fully freaked out though, so I think they will cease operations after the weekend.

My point, it isn't an export market. They built all sorts of different Jeeps here (along with every other brand of vehicle) and normally they're 99% the same as the US versions since they will supply either country from the same plant. We don't get anything special. So stop spreading the lie that you could get them in Canada. The Wagoneer D44 front is the biggest waste of time ever, and that's coming from somebody that actually swapped one in. And the complicated 5x4.5 to 6x5.5 (or vice versa) adapters are a horrible compromise as well. I'll expand on either point if you want.

I think the panic is starting to set in here. They cancelled hockey, so it must be bad! Personally I'm not overly worried about it, however I'm awaiting test results right now to determine what I'm doing tomorrow.

Canada is NOT an export market in the eyes of AMC, Chrysler, FCA, etc. I know there is people claiming that it was possible, but it's based on the same flawed idea that Canada was an export market and thus could order options that were not available in the US. You couldn't, and the only difference between the models was the gauge clusters and some mandatory features depending on year. As to the Isuzu rear, how do you deal with it being 6 lug?

I have seen zero evidence that Canadian versions could have the D44.