DirtyComanche

Which is a very valid reason. Originally all of the long arm kits were designed with the arms bolted to the crossmember, and no way to remove the crossmember to drop the transmission without having to drop your whole front axle. This design absolutely sucks if you have to change a clutch or tranny. Some time ago it seems most of the brands came around on making it so you didn't have to do that, which was after a few home brew types made their crossmembers that way. It's actually why I wouldn't consider buying it, regardless of what the rest of it is like. I didn't see the thickness anywhere, other than the crossmember is .250". I'd assumed the arms are the same, which should be adequate for most people. Are they thinner than that? And which joint is junk, their own flex joints? Do they fail, and how? They seem to use OEM bushings at the axle side, which is fine, that end does not misalign and a urethane bushing there will absorb some vibration. Spring rate is something that is subjective to your use. Same with shock valving. Personally I'd suspect they use not so great shocks, any cheap lift kit has to or it won't be a cheap kit.

What's up with Rough Country? They used to be literally one of the worst options for lift kits and suspension kits, but I was just glancing through what is available on TDot (Canadian retailer that's convenient for people in the frozen wasteland), and it looks like they sell an XJ long arm setup that appears to be reasonably well designed. https://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-xj-long-arm-upgrade-kit.html?find=1992-jeep-cherokee-xj-4wd-734952 It's radius arms, so it will have the same problems as any radius arm setup. But really, it seems like it's pretty decent. I'm not going to buy it, but was just curious if they've come around or not.

A Ranger lift spring look like a possible good option, if one could find them, or add another cut down main leaf. Or like you say, take the GM spring and maybe pull 3 leaves out of it. Definitely some options.

Getting a 97+ lift gate, which is steel, and then welding it in place is probably the better option. Lots of haaaaaaaaack ones out there with the fiberglass lift gate just glued or screwed on. It's one of those projects that's kinda neat, but not neat enough for me to want to do.

Which charts are you using? I'm looking for springs that are flatter than the stock MJ springs, so I can go SOA with a little higher spring rate and not get more than 4"~ lift. If that's possible without a custom spring.

Been good, just really busy with work. Haven't done anything with any of my Jeeps recently, so just stopped stopping in. Trying to get back into it so I'm going to poke around here more often. And I'm sure you will be. Likely you'll be over it in a few days.

The only current end is enough people getting it. Sorry, you are very wrong. It just isn't how this type of respiratory disease works. The vaccines are incredibly ineffective against controlling infection and spread; while proper masking offers somewhere between minor and significant advantages in certain situations, while doing nothing in others. Omicron is simply way too contagious, and the vaccines are tailored to the original virus, not what is now a variant that has very much mutated in the areas that the vaccine produced antibodies target. Vaccination can not win against something that is this easily spread and has such a short incubation period, nor can masking, hand washing, social distancing, disowning your own family because they didn't get vaccinated, or whatever other strategy currently is in place. That does not mean this is a losing battle, or that what I am saying is cause for alarm, but what I am saying is that reality is (unsurprisingly) not the extreme that is being pushed from either side. Everyone should look at the available vaccines and determine if it is worthwhile for them to take them, and choose whichever one is least likely to produce significant side effects given their situation. Certain people absolutely should NOT be getting vaccinated. Certain people absolutely SHOULD be. Healthcare is not a "one size fits all" mantra, and it should be cause for alarm when anyone is pushing that narrative. And yes, you should wash your hands, not touch your eyes/nose/mouth if they aren't washed, not go out if you're sick, consider wearing a N95 mask (cloth masks are effectively useless, and always have been) preferably with eye protection in certain settings, and definitely avoid high risk settings unless you're comfortable with the consequences, but most importantly actually try to be healthy in general. Obesity, poorly managed diabetes (as in, anything short of being fully managed), and vitamin deficiencies are some of the strongest correlations to severe illness; while interestingly enough mental health issues are also a strong correlation, with anxiety and stress being some of the major culprits. So, get some exercise, stop eating at McWendy's King JR every meal, put down the god damn soda, engage in things that make you happy, and maybe (I mean definitely but can't say that) take some (4000IU~) supplemental vitamin D and just like that you'll probably knock it most of those major correlations. Yes, correlation does not equal causation, but it's overwhelmingly not healthy people who are being hospitalized or even developing significant symptoms. It's also overwhelmingly people who are D deficient who are. I've handled/been in contact with hundreds of SARS-COV2 patients over the last year. And yes, I'm vaccinated. The above post is my opinion and not to be taken as medical advice. Please be nice to other people, and don't disown your own family over this.

I looked at these before I think... And they are flatter than factory MJ springs. You would also have to do something about the shackle location. I wanted them to go SOA and not get 5-6" of lift. I didn't buy them because it cost too much to gamble at the time, and the springs I had proved to perform fine in the end, even if a little too tall. Edit, I think I was looking at "C" truck (2wd) springs actually. I need to go dig into that again.

Oddly enough Fort St John has 27 in stock. Prince George has 0.

I have no idea how some people can get anything done when every square inch of their shop is covered in random junk and dirt.

Latest video: There's some more work done, but lots of unfinished stuff so not really anything to jam together to make the next video or really even a post. I did track down an axle, but I need some other stuff to make everything work. I need a rear axle too and there's lots of debate on that.

So, the picture/condensed version of what's in the next video. I wanted to go with polyurethane mounts because the guys running these things report they destroy their mounts all the time. Energy Suspension does not make an XJ tranny mount, and the other ones available are horribly expensive and really hard. So I used a TJ mount, which won't matter. Nothing is going where it normally would. TJ mount: I found that when I test fit everything and figured out where it should go that if I installed the trans crossmember backwards it all worked out perfectly with the TJ mount. Image to demonstrate the difference in the tranny crossmember: Test fit after moving a ton of $#!& so it would fit: Oil pan hit the steering and track bar. So I just removed them for now. It will be a huge problem: Another angle to show where the pitman arm is, and you can just imagine where the steering knuckle is on the other side... Yeah, straight through the oil pan is how it would have to go. Hacking the oil pan and lifting it is likely the best option. I looked at flipping the steering box around (astro box) or moving it forwards, but it really would just make for other goofy issues. The firewall needed some hammer work. This is still rough, I will smooth it later. This is so I can run the stock oil filter, which is massive and awesome. Lots of guys buy a relocation kit for a $#!&ty filter, and it doesn't make sense. After letting the weight off it the whole oil pan is actually sitting on the steering. This image didn't make it into the movie by accident, but let's just say the steering/oil pan problem is real and massive.

Out of that I will show these two pictures and explain what my complaint is about the Doomsday adapter. Like I said, if you really care you can find the whole write up, that includes some info beyond what is in the video, on 4x4North. The first is the bolt (CS cap screw more properly I guess) that is a problem. Since it's UNDER the flywheel and threads into the oil pan, if you ever need to pull the oil pan you would not only have to split the transmission off the engine, but you would also need to pull the clutch, flywheel, and the crank adapter off. That's a LOT of work only because the one bolt is installed that way. The one on the other side is not there, as I'll show in the other picture. This is the oil pan on the other side: Here you cut that part of the pan off for the starter to clear. Plus you can see the unused lower holes (there is no bolts in them) which I will probably drill out and drill/tap the adapter for when I need to go in there, which is likely to happen fairly soon. Maybe helicoil them too since it's just 6061 aluminum.

I'm not going to write out the adapter related tech here, it's in the video if anyone cares. Or you can find it on 4x4North in long form. Basically I broke down and bought the Doomsday one once he went into the actual production version. There is still some things I would change about it, and if I take it apart again (which I bet I will) I am going to drill/tap the adapter for the lower two oil pan bolts, drill out the threads in the pan, and install those bolts the "wrong" way and then omit the other bolt that's buried under the flywheel. Anywho, onto the more recent work. Video of bolting the adapter together with the transmission:

I forgot to update this thread. Video about the adapters that are available:

I didn't know they were selling those, likely because they're in the marine section that I rarely browse. I'll have to pick up a couple.

I'd think these would be the culprit.

I never understood the drinking age in the US. Anyways

All I can think of when I read the title.

Well that sucks. RIP John.

Slider preferably. Shipping is prohibitive though, so I'll probably just buy one off Rockauto (they can ship cross border super cheap because of their account).

If you can cut the rear windows out without breaking them, yeah, they're worth money. I need one actually.

Not reading the article. The names were chosen out of RESPECT though. Similar to how you have the Apache, Iroquois, Comanche (that they unfortunately did not take to production), Chinook, Kiowa, Lakota, and etc helicopters, along with fixed wing aircraft such as the Dakota, Choctaw, Huron, Mohawk, etc.

It's Canada. The sun ain't that hot.

That doesn't seem like a good thing. I'm betting there's a nice charbroiled wire back there. I'd think heated rear window. If sized incorrectly it could get hot enough to burn, but not actually fuse.