offroader461

i only ran it that way for about 2 days....just till i got my shocks mounts and new shocks in stock....the mounts are welded to the tubes now and running longer shocks...

got my new steering dropped at my door last night thanks to a really good buddy

Well a couple years ago i got a smoking deal on a Rock Krawler steering kit and was really stoked about putting it on the MJ. Well i got bored and decided to sell it to a friend of mine on another forum and he installed it on his heep. I have always kicked myself for selling it away without ever installing it. I decided to call up my buddy about his lifted MJ and he said he was pulling off his steering and upgrading to a Currie unit so i told him i would buy his old steering. So now i have another Rock Krawler kit for the awesome price of FREE!!!! All i need is new hiems and I'm good to go....Time to pull off the ZJ steering here is the only pic i have so far I'm going to throw a fresh coat of paint and i finally have a trailworthy steering

i have a rusty's air tube on mine but ditched the K&N after 3k miles after finding dirt inside the air tube behind the filter....i run a AirRaid filter now.

Top picture is the bleed valve for your the internal slave cylinder...its like the bleeder for your brakes next picture looks like a connector for an Automatic Trans line on the radiator...since you have a 5spd its not needed

autometer makes dual a-pillar pods for the jeeps...i have on in my MJ

1987 Jeep Comanche Chief 4.0L, 5spd, Np231 D30/D44 4.10 locked Build date: get it later Current location: Peoria, Az Status: DD and weekend warrior Mileage: 205K on the clock Notes: AirRaid intake, flowmaster exhaust, 7.5" lift, 33" BFG's, rollbar, bucket seats, custom bumper, waggy front clip, fiberglass front fenders, original paint, posi-lok, fabtech tire carrier, ZJ v8 steering, MORE steering box brace, 01 mirrors, optima battery, z34 hood vents....all new brakes here shortly Current owner: J. Kremer

i made a posi-lock manual cable set-up for 10 bucks....works perfect

And track bar... and sway bar links... and shocks... and brake lines... and you'll want big tires... so you'll want to regear... I'm running 33's on my truck with 3.07 gears and i still get 28 mpg straight 6 renix 5-spd my truck turns them just fine. doubt that....i ran 33's w/3.07 and got 12mpg...have you changed the speedometer gear for the tire size change so that you are actually getting the correct odometer reading instead of one thats way off....i have 4.10's now and get roughly 22MPG...plus the comanche 4.0 5spd from the factory was only rated at 23MPG

Yea if i read that right you plan on leaving the SOA and adding the 4.5 in springs? if so that is ridiculous b/c you will have about 10" of lift...either keep it SUA and put the springs in or sell them and just use your stock packs and SOA

not worth it....way to wide....look for an 8.8 out of an 97-01 explorer or a chrysler 8.25 98-01 cherokee or a d44 87-92 comanche/cherokee's those are the best ones and have the 5x4.5 bolt pattern...

i think what your problem is what was happening to mine. Since you have the locker in the front and the CAD locked all the time the front wheels when turning are going to chip b/c they are trying to spin the same speed. I had mine that way and had the same problems. I went with a posi-lock unit and my problem went away :cheers:

thanks....Pete M ran the idea buy me since i troll the classifieds but most of the credit does go to Pete for the final decision :cheers:

i have 33's w/4.10's (4.0L 5spd) and i average 16-18Mpg. But my trip-meter/speedometer are off a bit b/c i don't have the exact speedo gear i need. Its close enough for me though..only 1 tooth difference

I'm just shy of 8" and i have no problems...stock driveshaft still

get some of the RTV copper...put a light coat on the head and thermo housing..put it on and let it sit 24 hrs and it will seal up just fine

i have the dual booster in my 87....bolted up perfect...pedal is exactly where it was b4

you WILL need to either modify you stock brake light switch or use the late model one if there is a spot on the pedal assembly for it and you WILL need to make new brakes lines b/c the fittings on the master cylinder for the late model won't match up plus you need longer brake lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve anyways

Home Depot/Lowes----hammered black rutoleum paint....used it on my bumper/rollbar and it looks great and hasn't faded yet

the dolphins are heading that way now this year....we just lost our only decent QB for the season :fs1:

its A LOT easier just to mount the cherokee seats on the bench pedistals....it took me about 25 min start to finish instead of messing with the cherokee mounts which are next to impossible to get in b/c the floors are completley different

99.9% chance if its stock and hasnt been modified you have 3.07's :ack:

looks like a speedometer gear

GET BOTH!!! :cheers:

i swapped in the pedal assembly on mine...took about 15 min then i just spliced the new switch into the factory wiring....was very simple