The hardest part of clutch replacement is removal of the transmission, if you do that the rest is easy. The clutch plate is attached to the flywheel on the engine, the only part on the trans side is the slave cylinder/throw out bearing, it just slips over the input shaft in the bell housing and stays in place with a roll pin and washer. You should also replace the pilot bearing in the center of crank shaft. When I replaced mine I removed the starter and drive shafts, disconnected the CPS, removed the transfer case then removed the trans, some people pull the case and trans as one unit but it was too unwieldy for me. Remember to drain the fluids before you start. Reinstalled in reverse order.
If you let the engine tilt down you'll have easier access to the two top bolts, you'll need some long extensions. There are many threads with details on bolt sizes, BA 10/5 used eternal Torx for the top bolts and there are locating pins to help align when reinstalling.