fiatslug87

I have an AMC Corp. VIN list I found on the web that lists the following for the 5th digit: 5th digit - transmission A 3-speed, automatic, column shift, full-time transfer case B automatic, part-time transfer case C automatic, full-time transfer case E automatic, column shift, part-time transfer case F 5-speed manual, part-time transfer case G 4-speed manual, full-time transfer case H 4-speed manual, full- or part-time transfer case J automatic, column shift, full- or part-time transfer case K automatic, full- or part-time transfer case L 5-speed manual, part-time transfer case M 4-speed manual, part-time transfer case N 5-speed manual, part-time transfer case P 5-speed manual, full-time transfer case W 5-speed manual, no transfer case X part-time transfer case not sure of its accuracy but "G" matches what avtograd gave you. I don’t think anyone would convert from a 4WD to a 2WD but I guess anything is possible.

Thanks. I think I've got it in but it doesn't look as far in as my other MJs. If it still leaks can I just plug the hole and leave the tube unattached? What's this tube for?

Is there an easy way to attach the hose that comes out of the blower motor to its hole beneath the motor (engine compartment side)? Mine is disconnected and water enters the cab through the hole. I've pulled the coolant bottle and bracket ('88 closed system) but it's tight in there and I can’t seem to get any leverage to press it in place. Thanks.

Who/what is A JY? Jeepmaniac2, If you do go OEM, here are the part numbers for the brackets (if you haven't found them yet). 55003232 Front Right 55003233 Front Left 55003234 Center (same both sides) 55003236 Rear Right 55003237 Rear Left And they're $10.53 each so bank on ~$65 as Eagle stated earlier. Ahh the cost of staying stock. But I agree with you, I like the stock look. Good luck.

Thanks, that was it. Now why would they put a bolt right there where it can't be seen? Good ol' engineers.

I'm trying to remove the fuse panel in my '88 MJ. I need to access the bulkhead connector to which the panel is attached because water leaks past it into the cab. I've loosened the two screws and the panel loosens, but I can't seem to remove it. Is there a locking tab(s) I don't see or another fastener? Thanks for the help.

This is probably way too late for Pete but if someone does a search for floorpan this might help. http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ has an MJ floor pan which is actually both sides and tunnel as one piece for for $170. Search the Body catalog, then go to Cab, Rear Panels, Rear Header, and select View Illustration. All sheet metal is listed, if they're actually available is another matter. Hope this helps someone.

Don't drop the bolts in the bell housing and you'll need a series of extensions and a universal joint socket extension. There are no "adjustments". Hope it runs for you.

The Chrysler part numbers are: 5AG28JX9 (Right rear) 5AG29JX9 (Left rear) They appear to still be available through http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/ About $58 each

I'm too old to mod it out and deep down I'm a purist- I'll leave it stock(ish). Haven't yet looked at any fluids, this weekend will be my first real look. I have the new clutch hose and that's going in tomorrow. By the way, I still have 20+ days of CarFax, anyone want their MJ run? Just PM me if interested.

Just picked up an 88 Pioneer 4x4, 4.0, MT, short bed. The body and frame are in great condition (no rust or dents) the interior looks brand new and the motor runs strong (not bad for 280K miles). The only problems are the trans is rough in 1st & 2nd, the clutch hydraulic line needs replacing and the power steering pump whines occasionally. This is my first 4x4. Now my collection is complete (see signature). I’ll post pictures eventually.

If it was weeping you need a new pump. That's the point of weep holes.

The "1" in the 8th position designates base model. Already came upon that conclusion. But a base Metric Tonne got an 'F' in position 8, which is what is confusing. Mine is base trim, but has the Metric Tonne package on it. I've got all the external markers, the different springs, and the D44 but its got a 1 in the eighth position. Easy there whowey, I was just confirming the "maybe" and you’re correct about the Metric Ton Here's the list I have for position 8, the list is labeled as being for 1987-1990, but now I doubt its accuracy since when I just looked at my 1990 FSM, the 8th digit is the Engine. F 5,001 - 6,000 lbs. Comanche, base & Custom, Metric Ton, Big Ton J 3,001 - 4,000 lbs. Wrangler base & Cherokee base K 3,001 - 4,000 lbs. Wrangler Sport & Cherokee Pioneer L 3,001 - 4,000 lbs. Wrangler Laredo & Cherokee Laredo M 3,001 - 4,000 lbs. Wrangler Sahara N 5,001 - 6,000 lbs. Grand Wagoneer & J-10 Truck P 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Comanche Pioneer P 6,001 - 7000 lbs. J-20 Truck R 5,001 - 6,000 lbs. Comanche Pioneer, Metric Ton, Big Ton S 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Comanche Chief S 7,001 - 8,000 lbs. J-20 Truck T 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Comanche Laredo U 5,001 - 6,000 lbs. Comanche Laredo, Metric Ton, Big Ton U 6,001 - 7000 lbs. Grand Wagoneer & J-10 Truck Y 8,001 - 9,000 lbs. J-20 Truck 1 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Wrangler base, Cherokee base, Comanche base 2 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Wrangler Sahara & Cherokee Pioneer 3 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Wrangler Sport & Cherokee Chief 4 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Wrangler Laredo, Cherokee Laredo, Wagoneer Limited 5 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Cherokee E.C.E. & Comanche Eliminator 9 4,001 - 5,000 lbs. Cherokee Limited

Okay, here is the vin run down. 1- US built J - Jeep T -truck M - 4.0l L - 5-spd manual tranny, part time t-case 65 - LWB 4-whl drive 1 - Not sure, FSM shows only letters (for the trim package) X - Check digit H - Model year 1987 T - Built in Toledo 049647 - serial number Edit- Got to thinking about that '1'. On a hunch I checked the vin on my 88 MJ. I have the same '1'. Mine is a custom ordered Metric Tonne, any chance you know whether yours was a custom order also??? The "1" in the 8th position designates base model.

It's an '87. Run it through this Jeep VIN decoder http://jeep.avtograd.ru/VIN/vin_en.asp

The '90 FSM says to tighten bolts using the tightening sequence to: 22 ft. lbs. then 45 ft. lbs. then recheck at 45 ft. lbs. then to 110 ft. lbs. except #11 to 100 ft. lbs. (bolt #11 should be coated with Locktite 592) The tightening sequence is as you're looking from the front: #1 -middle bolt on left #2 –middle bolt on right #3 -bolt in font of #2 #4 -bolt in front of #1 #5 -bolt behind #1 #6 -bolt behind #2 #7 -bolt in front of #3 #8 -bolt in front of #4 #9 -bolt behind #5 #10 -bolt behind #6 #11 - bolt in front of #7 #12 - bolt in front of #8 #13 -bolt behind #9 #14 -bolt behind #10 You’re basically making a spiral from the center. It specifically says do not apply sealing compound and to reuse head bolts only once. I'd get new ones, I've broken them upon reinstall and had to pull the head back off to get the suckers out.