Wildman

Yea, I lifted my '91 too - Think it's too high :hmm: But, I had a little help :roll: My new way of moving the fleet around :D :teehee:

:hmm: Yea........I kind of like that idea Rob :idea: Just the 'hockey stick' stripes, with out any wordings :D Kind of keep it generic, that way you could put the Pioneer stripes on a 'Sportruck' and still be politically correct :brows: And.......possibly add the wording as seam fit.

2 things come to mind......... The EGR valve........you can unplug the vacuum line to it (and plug the rubber line) and "test" it that way. And.......you still running a catalytic converter????

So.......it was not as easy as just coping the OEM one I sent you :dunno: Before you get too far on them, what can you do for the color??? Can you make the 2 tone color, or would it be just one color?? And what color?? Maybe we need a little input here on whom would like a set of the Pioneer decals :hmm: Any one interested in Pioneer Decals????? Sound off__________

Like I said, he's doing drop ship from CRL, and I bet he never had one in his hands to begin with. And, No, I didn't get a chance to call to double check :( Your not replacing your OEM 3 lite just because the latch is missing........are you :hmm: I still have not found the correct latch for the OEM, I've got a couple different replacement latches, but just not the one needed. At worst, if you need to keep the slider locked, you can cut some aluminum angle to fit in the track, between the slider pane and the end, to keep it from sliding open :idea: I don't think I would replace the OEM unit just because the latch is missing :roll:

drase - I think your getting the wrong idea about this, you have to get under the truck to change out the CPS, you really can't get to if from the engine bay, or from the top. The electrical connector, yes, but the bolts for the CPS, no. You seam to keep asking about that, and if you found the CPS on the bell housing, you'll see how it's kind of behind, under the firewall.

Wow Rob........Ya got your 15 minutes of fame :banana: Yea, I was wondering about them extra hits with the impact, seen the torque sticks, but.......still wondering..........you do hit them with a torque clicker after......don't ya, on the left side, after you roll 100 miles on them :hmm: You should know if you on the news working.........we were going to check out all them small details :D Otherwise, nice to see you at work, and keeping the fleet rolling.

jimoshel - You got to get your self one of these - http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-ca ... 91859.html Either the thing to fit in the bed, or the girl in the picture to help you unload :D Or both :brows:

Yea, your right.......been 8 months since I've done one :doh: But.......I found this, and it may help drase....... http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoCPSchange.htm ajpolitz, that why they sell these, metric and standard :brows: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_ ... et+sockets

If you find out that its the NSS, better check this out, cause if you go price one :eek: :eek: http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/NSS.zip

:agree: And a 2wd would be even easier :D Because you don't need to take the front drive shaft off. It's not the easiest thing to get your hand up there to pull the bolts, and with my fat hands and arms.......I can do it :D What every you do.........Don't drop one of the bolts down in the bell housing :no: You will for sure be taking the transmission off :eek: I've drop the tranny down, with taking the bolts off the cross member, but that seamed like a waste, the next one, and others, I've just done with taking the front drive shaft off.

Way too many :doh:

PM received and back at ya :D

Got to side with jimoshel on this, she made the deal with the tree cutting service, it was theirs to re-move, you did them a big favor by taking it off there hands. What if it was a neighbor 4 blocks away that they dumped the load at :dunno: Would your neighbor know about that, or go after them?? And, getting a tree cut down, and cleaned up for $250 was a good deal, around here, any size tree is around $500, and durn a storm.......figure a grand a tree. If the husband confronts you, tell him your mother made the deal, and after the he said, she said, goes around enough, they'll give up on it, and you can "sell" some of the mulch back to them :D

Yes, I seen that, I'm watching the listing too. No, I'm not going to be bidding on it, so your safe :D He might have a few in-hand stock from when they were still available :dunno: If he's doing a drop ship, like I do, there are none, I might get time on Wednesday to call and check, but I don't think there in stock anymore.

My local Fastenal shop is holding there own right now with construction way down, the manufacturing plants are keeping them afloat. The manger was telling me, that he is making about 1/3 from what he normally makes :shake: Straight commission sales ya know. As far as them selling the pick-up trucks, they been doing that for years, they get new fleet trucks and rotate them every 2 years. When they sell a truck out of a branch, they get a new truck as a replacement. Most of the trucks get very little use.........although last week, I seen one with a high pallet of something on the back and a 3 foot lift on the front :eek: Yea, the rear bumper was about 10" off the ground :roll: So some of the truck get over used.

If I understand correctly, you have the 4 lite slider, with 2 sliding lites?? If so, drop me a PM with your addie, I have a few new latches that I picked up from CRL for the "meet-in-the-middle" sliders, both latch and catch.

And pull the plastic loom off the cables, and inspect the cables for cracked/missing insulation. The way you state it, when your cranking the starter, your getting a very weak, sluggish start, that leans to the positive cable to the starter being corroded.

I would think just a spring from a hardware store would work :idea: Or.....one one them multy packs from the Help section of your favorite auto parts store. Here's a picture of one, if you need a length, let me know, it will be a couple days before I'm back in the shop.

Get one of them decal "Erasers" that Napa sell, that you chuck up in your drill motor :yes: So........ya think we'll see the Pioneer decals any time soon :hmm: :dunno:

:agree: But.......if you mis-read me, I was scrapping the AW4's and out of the trucks, and on the floor, pulling the solenoids, and the cable is right there, 2x's I've been asked for TV cables, and just so happen to have them ;) Also saving a un-dented pan, with the dip stick still attached is not a bad idea also :brows:

Just looped the cable around the front of the transfer case, with the cable underneath, back to the axle, strap around the axle, and cranked the come-a-long from the axle end. I'll agree with the 2 "sheet metal" screws from the front - to the dust plate/tranny. Others have forgotten these, and you'll be surprised how much the dust plate behind the flywheel will hold the tranny in place :eek: kastein wrote about keeping the engine and tranny somewhat level, or aligned, and that is required, if there to much out of alignment, that will give you a problem with pulling the input shaft thru the pilot bushing/clutch plate.

Better use a Bic lighter........less of a chance to burn your fingers ;)

Good to hear that free MJ went to a good home and not some tool that just want to pull it into the scrap yard Monday morning for some quick crack cash :yes:

Guest we got to give you a 'Salute' for saving it from the crusher :thumbsup: Not bad, lots of MJ exclusive parts on the 'ole girl ;) Yea, check out the tranny, could be missing bolts to the engine too. At least you know if the tranny is trash or not. I pick a '88 up that was missing 2 feet of frame right under the passenger floor board, the floor pan didn't have a spot of rust on it, but underneath...........nothing but air :shake: