Wildman

First, that's not just a Comanche problem, all vehicles would act the same if there was a problem with the braking system :roll: There is a way to "test" the master, just sitting parked, put your foot on the pedal and push and hold, if the pedal starts sinking to the floor, and you have NO leaks, then the chance that your 20 year old brake master is worn out :( If not, then when was the last time you check the wheel cylinders, and replaced the soft lines??? The soft (flex) lines after time and age, can become deteriorated and collapse internally, causing fluid pressure problems. You can sometimes check them externally, by feeling for "bumps" or really soft spots. You can bleed the system a thousand times, but if you have a hardware problem, it will not go away with out some replacement parts. One thing you did not post, if you still have the load leveling valve in the system, and are using the proper bleeding process with the valve in place :dunno:

............Your on the road to some town you haven't been to in a while, and your checking all the parked vehicles in yards and small dealers lot, looking for another MJ :headpop: .............Your sitting at a red light, and as a XJ goes pass you, you can see the guy doing a double take on what you have.........Yea pal, see the tail gate, no hatch back there :D .........Someone stops by the shop, and tells you he's been looking for a Comanche for a long time, and can't find one, and you have to tell him to be quicker because you grab every one in the area before anyone else can get it :doh: .........Someone passes you, driving a MJ, and you always wave back at them :yes: .........you stop some place, or working on a job, and there's always someone that tells you where he's seen one, or know someone that owns a MJ :brows: ..........You know where every local Comanche is, and more or less know whom owns it :yes:

:agree: E-bay should be the best site to find what you want :yes: Last year, I got a full set of Ford '05 Van FSM from a dealer in TX for $12, included the 3 book set :banana: Was buying the van, got the FSM's and didn't take the van with a bad 6.0 :ack: But.......still have the FSM for the next one........maybe :dunno:

Totally agree with you Mr. Hornbrod :yes: Yes, in the day, any option could be 'special' ordered, and you have found one that way.......now you just need to get the 'ole guy to let some stuff go :fs2: That's what knocks me off my chair every time I see a topic on........."what did MY Comanche come with?????" or "Decode my Vin" :shake: That's why I suspected that you had cruse control on the original steering column, with the presents on the servo motor under the hood :D No, if you paid a C note for a complete steering column, pulled, that's not bad, a pulled used column with all the bells and whistles is worth at least $60 free standing. Good thing you got the extra intermediate shaft too, there very hard to find in good shape, the U-joints go, and you can not replace just the U-joints, well......with out welding in new ones :roll: If you go back a few posts, I mentioned about "re-building" your new steering column if it has tilt, to save you the trouble later on with the 4 screws that back out and cause problems, it you go this far, you'll be into the column, so changing the key switch will be easy, and you can pick up one at Advance auto parts, or order complete key kits, column and door lock cores from other online sites. Links for "rebuilding" a steering column, ignition lock - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20204 http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip Do you just run out to a locksmith to have a key made :dunno: could run you $10 - $30 just for that. Me, I would change the core, and clean up the column in the process. I too have a full schedule and don't get much 'free' time to check in here every day :(

You know, your right, so I double check my self :D The '86 clutch master is only used from '84-'86, and the mounting holes are horizontal. The '87-'90 clutch master mounting holes are vertical. The '91-'96 clutch master mounting holes are vertical, with a stud at the top, and a plastic clip for the clutch petal connection. So, to answer the OP question, No, A '95 clutch master Will Not Work on a '86. Besides the mounting holes, and the added stud in '91, the push rod is completely different. Sorry for posting any mis-information :( And I hope the OP went out and bought the '84-'86 clutch master cylinder, which would be the correct one.

Yea, we always go with the flow around here :teehee: Did you get the speedo cable off??? The "clip" is very well hidden in the white plastic, it's a small nub in the plastic, away from the cluster, more on the cable side, that you squeeze, and that releases the cable off the back of the cluster.

Nope you'd be paying $200, for $350 tail lights. Thats a deal in my book. Rob L. It's just supply and demand.......... I got the supply, and I demand that price :D Plus, I need the money :doh: If you really need some money i can loan you a little bit...couple hundred...and I'm sure someone else on here can help you out..heck, even like 5 bucks per person would be alot. I know how it is to be in money problems...remember my winters are COLD as a landscpaer, especially when it don't snow..just pm me if you need to...just cuz i don't like you dosnt mean i won't help you out....really No, that's fine, I'm OK :D I too had 4 bad months with things slowing down, but work is picking up again :banana: No, I just had to work the weekend (Saturday and Sunday) to make up getting a job done, and ever though your offer was generous, I make that in a couple hours doing my specialty work, installing automatic door operators. But thanks for the offer :D I Plow in the winter too, but I do mostly my own stuff, and a couple "friends" and neighbors, so it cost me money to plow :( So, like your steering gear tread, you don't like Rob or me :eek: Too bad, I'd offer you a steering gear, but I'm sure you can find one local :dunno:

Yup, you hear right on the dino oil, what's the spect's from the builder, change at 300 miles, then again at 1000.....or something like that??? The more reply's you make, the more info we find out :doh: Rebuild from Advance.......that's a long block, correct??? You had to bolt on the manifolds??? Did you bolt on the intake as per spects??? Your waving idle/vacuum could be from leaks on the intake manifold. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Get some mileage on the engine before you start tearing apart things. About 1/2 way down this page is the test for the EGR solenoid and valve - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Like I thought :hmm: the PO swapped out the steering column before you got the Laredo MJ :( Yea, if you find a XJ with a tilt column, the stalk set-up for inter-wipes and cruse, your back on track to the OEM Laredo model :yes: I'd stick with a MJ or XJ for the replacement, not cross checking which GM model might fit. Plus, you'll get the 3 spoke Jeep steering wheel in the package. Plus the correct gray interior color code. The years you want to get are from '87 -'90, that is all the Renix era electric, for plug and play on the swap. And, if your U-pull is anything like ours, the complete steering column is only $24 :D And they don't care what "extras" are inside the column. If you get a tilt column, there is a process to tighten up the bolts in the column, that is highly recommended before you reinstall it. So, if you find a loose one in the yard, don't pass it up. Same with the ignition lock/key, that can be change out. The inter-wipes are controlled by the multi-switch, and a black control box behind the left knee panel. That yellow control box is the cruse control, and the item you described on the fire wall with the throttle cable is the Servo motor for the cruse. Sounds like all the components are in place, you just need the correct mulit-switch and stalk for the system to work, and the easiest way is to swap the correct steering column in there. Did you "add" the cargo light switch, or was is OEM?? The wire is in ALL MJ's, and just tied up behind the "B" column trim. Every once in a while a cargo light shows up on this board, or you can opp out for a aftermarket cargo light, it's just surface mounted on the back of the roof panel, above the rear window. The gauge cluster speedo cable is held by a little integrated clip, most times it's on the bottom side, and if you depress the "lever" it pops right off, I've also had luck with just a good hard pull, and popped the cable off the speedo :roll: If it's really causing you major problems, you can unhook the cable at the TC and pull some slack thru the fire wall, to get the cluster out from the dash. * Hey Rob!!!! Rob!!! :wavey: You want to move this over to Tech???? :dunno: *

Oh.......there are only 42 miles on the engine?? I missed that :doh: The engine is not even started to be broken in yet. You still running break in oil??? Get some millage on that new engine, and then see what it does. Your dealing with a new born baby there, and once you get it out of diapers, then the fine adjustments can be made. I did miss the point that your in that "lite air" area, and I'm thinking there both a 02 sensor, and IAC for them "lite air" running conditions. Yes, the timing is not adjustable, and 10* BTDC sound correct, the timing is adjusted thru the ECU, and more ""Tuned"" after the engine hits operating temperature.

Yea, that's what I thought too........the 4 lite slider :roll: What Rob posted is about all you can find out what your MJ came with......Plus, any accessory or add on could be ordered with any MJ model. Like the sun roof, light bar, lighting package. But you say its a Laredo model??? That was the top end on the accessories model, and you should have a color coded steering column with the 3 spoke steering wheel, wrapped with leather, and also a tilt column. If you have the 2 spoke steering wheel, and painted black, I bet it was swapped out with a basic XJ steering column, which is very easy to do :fs1: To get the cruse control to work, you need the mulity switch for the intermittent wipers, and there should be a pair of wires in the steering column for the cruse control stalk. The good news is........if you can find the above steering column in the JY from an XJ, your good to go, everything is plug and play. It will take you about an hour to swap out the steering column :banana:

Oh, Man........and I had to work today and missed this deal :doh: :teehee:

Here's a great DIY on Jeep Drum brakes :yes: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm Just follow the steps, and you'll be stopping on a half-dollar in no time :D You'll be looking at the 10" drums for the MJ. Just one note, if you really into doing it, change out the hard lines, and the soft line from the frame to the axle at the same time, it will assure you years of trouble free service.

If you can, do a fuel pressure check on it, it sounds like after it hits operating temperature it lacking fuel feed, almost like a vapor lock. Here's the test and spect's on the fuel pressure - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fue ... ostics.htm Another thought......... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm The valve cover leaking should not have anything to do with a vacuum leak, or rough idle.

Try unhooking the EGR valve vacuum line, plug the line, and see if that makes any difference. Another thought........is the 02 sensor. Unplug that and see what it acts like after it warms up.

To answer your question.........NO. The clutch master was changed in '91, and if you compare the 2 masters, the Renix era has the 2 bolts vertical, and the "newer" style has the 2 bolts horizontal. If your still pumping the clutch, good chance the master is starting to go south. Change it out with a new Renix era and replace the steel/rubber supply line also.

And, To add one thing..........

Nope you'd be paying $200, for $350 tail lights. Thats a deal in my book. Rob L. It's just supply and demand.......... I got the supply, and I demand that price :D Plus, I need the money :doh:

That's true that the glue only holds for so long :roll: The only way to change the glass panels out is to take the entire unit apart, it's pinched at the joints, and corners, and that requires removing the unit :doh: No, what I was saying was, that if just the lock handle is missing, it's a lot of work to remove and re-install a new / newer unit. So.......did anyone get this tri-view unit???? I've been swamped down and on the road all week with the day job and haven't had time to call :fs2:

Man........I can't believe all the shots being fired around here :shake: What ever happen to the "help a fellow CC member out" :dunno: I have a few sets of tail lights that I've been saving, just for cases like this. No, I don't sell anything on e-bay (check out my account) and I guest I could part with a set :hmm: But, after what I seen this winter, with the price of the tail light hitting the moon with the price spike, I could sell you a set for $100 per light, so a pair will cost you $200 plus shipping. Let me know, send me a PM if you want to buy a set.

sinkrun - your in par with the original poster :D No problem with leaving the vacuum line plugged, and running it with out the EGR valve, I've been running my '89 4.0 for at least 4 years that way. As long as your inspection don't have the sniffer test :roll:

:peek: I'll never tell :teehee:

Check your PM inbox :D

Yes, disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR when the engine is cold, and just plug the end of the vacuum hose, you should notice a difference right away, and more so after the engine hits operating temperature. If no change, well, it cost you nothing but 5 minutes of your time just to check the EGR valve. Then we move on to the next thing. If the cat was clogged, you would notice it more on acceleration than anything else, like going up hill and giving it a little extra gas. The engine will bog down really bad and act like no power at all.......that's a sure sign that the Cat is plugged. A plugged cat can also cause rough idle, where there is to much back pressure from the exhaust. Just remember, the 4.0 and 2.5 are designed to run with some back pressure, so a full open exhaust is not the ideal running conditions for the engine. I'll still put my coins on the EGR valve :D

Spencer........totally understand :yes: Yes, I know the OEM decal I sent you was in kind of rough shape, but I bet you would look like that too if you had been rolled up in a box for 20 years too :ack: I check out you "add" on the eliminator decals, and color wise, that sound good for the Pioneer decals too.......trying to keep it simple for you too. Oh, and with you adding the tailgate decal...........Great Idea :thumbsup: Now......we just need to know what the potential would be for these Pioneer decals. Back when I sent you that sample, there were a couple others interested, I know one person is no longer in the market, cause his MJ is sitting in my fleet now :roll: I guest that just adds to the quantity I would need :D Keep us posted on any updates, and like I posted before.........who else wants the Pioneer decals?????