Wildman

This guy on e-bay is selling them for a whopping 99 cents :eek: (But gets ya on the shipping) :fs1: I bought a couple from him last year and have in stock........just in case :roll: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT If he don't post any new ones up, check the other listing for a new one, it's not worth getting one out of the JY, as most of the ones I've seen, the plastic base is broken off.

If your asking about a '90 4.0, that has a metric thread on the oil filter. 2.5 X 14 I think :hmm: You'll be looking for a Purolator L14619 or PL14619 Or K&N HP-2007 I wouldn't give you the Frame number......(PH3985) but just in case your stuck.

I will say Yes on the TCU, I'm thinking a year or two ago, someone on here did swap in a HO AW4, and I think it was plug and play, but if you need to splice in some wires, we'll fine the topic. NO, you can not use your Renix *87-90 CPS with a HO *90+ flex plate, or vice verse. You need to have the Renix CPS and Renix flex plate installed for the ECU to get the correct readings. The same goes for the HO engines, you need the HO CPS and flex plate for the HO ECU to operate. Your MJ is a '89, correct??? So you need the Renix CPS and Renix flex plate. Eagle made a note that while you had everything pulled apart, it is a good time to replace the Renix flex plate with a new one, as they tend to brake in the center, and it would just be a good investment on your part for time and pulling the tranny again in a short time. Maybe that's where your getting confused :dunno:

Eagle beat me to the punch, I've just included the link (with pictures) for rebuilding the valve. If you adjust the rear "self-adjuster" so that there is a little drag on the wheel when you spin it, then the the rear drums are adjusted correctly. You may have a common XJ problem with the proportioning valve. Read thru this, and rebuilding your proportioning valve should solve your problem - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ve_Mod.htm NOTE........This is for XJ's only, not to be done on the MJ's :no:

:agree: Advance has them for like $22.

:agree: Professional Grade = gets it back on the road Professional Grade Plus = back on the road, and no return for 2 years (months) Ya get what ya pay for :roll: Me, I always go for mid grade/price which seams like it balances out :dunno:

Like I said, I've done a few timing chains, and didn't have to drop the oil pan on both Ford and Jeep :dunno: Yes, I seen you WTB add, and I double checked the parts list, and the '92 was a stand alone :hmm: The part number your looking for is........5302 0233 There is also a 4720 223 Cover Package 1992*** Which shows the cover and the oil pan gasket. Me, I would get a '91 or '93+ cover, and check to see if it matches up with the '92, and use that. It's odd that the gasket set is the same for 1965-2006 years, but the cover is just different for the '92 model year :dunno: Even car-parts list from '87 up on the timing cover.......there's a few on there for $15-20 :brows: http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search. ... userPage=1 Can't help you on the part, I'm into all Renix parts :yes: Course........I could sent you a '88 to see if it's close :idea:

The answer your looking for was posted above ^ Yes, the '94 AW4 will bolt up to your '89 Renix engine, but, you need to retain/replace the old flex plate with a new Renix flex plate, while you have things tore apart, because of the CPS. You need to retain the transfer case with the '94 AW4 because of the 23 spline output shaft, your '89 231, 21 spline input transfer case will not work. And Jeepco made the comment that the torque convert may or may not bolt up to the flex plate, and can be "made to fit" Off the top of my head, the '89 TCU should be used, and I can't remember if the AW4 wire harness will just plug in or not :hmm: If it does not, there is a write up on splicing the wires to make it work. And........$150 for the combo your getting is a good price :D

You can get just the timing cover gasket set, that will include the cover gasket, front crank seal, and lower pan gasket "section", you just trim off a small portion of the oil pan gasket to fit the lower section in (the black gasket in the picture). The kit also comes with a spacer for setting the front crank seal. Check this out - from http://www.rockauto.com 1992 JEEP COMANCHE 4.0L 242cid L6 MFI (S) OHV : Engine : Timing Cover Gasket Set FEL-PRO Part # TCS45458 More Info {Timing Cover Set w/Sleeve} Timing Set w/Sleeve & Seal; w/Sleeve 'N' Seal®; Must be used w/OS 34308R Part Image $14.06 There's a FSM on line here some where, I'm sure some one will pop in with that info, but the step-by-step is also in the Hanes manual, if you have one of those. I didn't look this up........ done it :D And yes, it's easier to pull the radiator out, not necessary, but alot easier.

Yea, if you were closer, and I had the time......... :teehee: You need to check the ignition switch, located on the bottom of the steering column for adjustment on your "new" problem. It's as simple as loosing 2 screws, and sliding the switch up or down :D As far as your waiting for some mechanic that worked on the truck a couple years ago to get back to you on what was done..........think about what you did 2 years ago, and try to remember :hmm: Go ahead with that test on the TCU to test the solenoids, it could be just one or two solenoid that are not letting it shift correctly.

Except.......for the MJ, which first rolled off the line on 7/1/85, the same date as the "Coin" alot of us have :yes: All the modern American auto manufactures change tooling over in May/June for the next year model, as Rob pointed out, to hit the show room floor in September.

:eek: I was just in Jamestown 2 weeks ago :wavey: Working on the "New" Tops market :roll: I don't think any additional pictures are needed on that MJ, I'll call frame rot from what I seen :shake:

If your running '93 and '94 HO 4.0's you should feel comfortable with the Renix era 4.0 :D The real difference is the sensors between the two era's, but overall very similar operating systems. Like, you can take a AW4 off a '95, and bolt it to your '90 with out a hitch :brows: Just spent some time going thru the links posted, and I would start with the TV cable adjustment, to see where that leads you to the problem. Anytime you take a 20 year old vehicle, and rely on it as a DD, you need to spent some time in it to get it up to the reliability that you expect out of it. If it's have been neglected of routine maintenance over time, the burden is passed on to you :fs1: On the bright side.........you could have your 15 minutes of fame as the one whom backed up traffic on the I-75 for 10 miles......... :teehee:

A Jeep :D Going to pass some links here for you........do some reading up, and checking a few simple things first before you run out and buy a bunch of parts - Your tranny shifting problem - Check the adjustment on the TV cable, that could be the cause of the shifting too quick - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Tra ... ostics.htm Electric diagnostic on the AW4 - http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/ ... index.html Complete guide to All sensors for the Renix era 4.0- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm ^There is the voltage check for the IAC in that link. Check the EGR valve for the idle dieing issue, and check the 02 sensor too. For your parts - Plugs, Good ole' Champions #4430 or NGK's......Don't use any Platinum plugs, the ole' Renix don't like them. Wires and rotor/cap, I always go with the Mid-grade parts, not the cheap, get it running parts, they don't last, and cause more problems down the road. Some guy's like to buy the best, but my pockets aren't that deep :( Gaskets, Felpro is about the best for "our" gaskets, and convert all the ole' cork gaskets to the "newer" rubber gaskets, it will same time and troubles later on. *I just re-read your post........What tranny are you running????....I posted the info for the AW4 :dunno: *

Rob should know the answer on how many '91's were made.......he's the 'keeper-of-the-count' :yes: That's great that the yard would sell you the whole truck :thumbsup: And I know what you do with them :brows: Funny thing is the column shift, I snagged 3 - '90's in a row last year that all had column shifts :dunno: Either they were trying to use up the column shifts near the end, or they were running short on floor shifters for the XJ's them couple of years :hmm:

With lowering the rear end, and the added 1" of the input of the D44, your BA10 should be just fine :D What you need to worry about is with the drive shaft being too long, and shoving the engine/transmission on the 20 year old engine/tranny mounts forward and sticking your fan blades into the radiator :eek: So, yes, the BA10 should survive :yes:

I'm not blasting you :oops: But this comes up every 3 months, and to make it clear, the XJ sending unit that ALL the parts store sell, is Not an exact fit into the MJ's fuel tank, with the reserve pan. The other thing you will notice, don't let the fuel get below a 1/4 tank, because the pump is not sitting in the bottom of the reserve pan like it should, and you'll have fuel in the tank, and an engine that will not run on air. I also seen your other post after I replied to this one :roll:

But did it work :dunno: I just check out the link you posted and that's a XJ sending unit :eek: And if you look at the listing, it said - " 87-90 JEEP CHEROKEE,COMANCHE,WAGON 4.0L " That is not the sending unit for a MJ :shake: The fuel pump is the same, but the sending unit is not. kastein is correct in his statement :yes: And.......before this gets into 5 pages of 'he said, she said'.......check other topics on this subject. Oh, and for S&G's, here's the difference -

Your right on the badge, except on '87's the 4X4 badge was on the rear quarter of the box. The front end looks low in the wheel well, that's what draw me to think it's 2wd. There is a one inch difference between the 2wd and 4wd in front and rear height. The problem with all that body rust.........it leads to frame rot too :eek: Like I said, too much for the condition it's in, and more that likely it's got frame rot, and is just a parter with high mileage :shake: Plus.......it's 4 hours to Binghamton for me too......and I do have a job coming up that way in the next 2 months :brows: I only get the local rot boxes for the parts, I still believe in heading south for the clean body's, and it's worth it :yes:

Agree that it looks like a 2wd. Too rough of shape and high mileage for the asking price :shake: I've got better ones for $350 :roll:

Someone a few weeks ago had problems with the Bosch replacement pump :hmm: I would suggest this set from rockauto.com, or from Advance - CARTER Part # P74155 More Info {In Tank Fuel Pump and Strainer Set} w/Bosch OE Pump $82.79 http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getim ... 55_ANG.jpg

Yea, I know what seals your asking about. I should have a set or two laying around. The push pins you can get at Advance auto, or any parts store in the "Help" section. Drop me a PM with your shipping address and I'll get back to you. But next time you remove them, use a tool like this- http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showL ... elID=21167

Just an added thought......... If the rear height sensing valve is gone.........how are the hard lines run??? Like this- Just checking if the lines are coming out of the correct ports, that could cause your problems :roll:

:agree: 2X's

See..........time and mileage on a re-man engine, takes some time to "break" in. It's not like a new drill motor, you take it out of the box and plug it in, and it works :eek: Engines take a little more time to work out their bugs, and seat, and now that your still breaking it in, keep the oil changed!!!!! Check back after you crank on another thousand miles to see if your vacuum problem is still there :D