Wildman

I would agree with the threaded rod, and welding them to the top portion of the broken J-bolt. If the OP has a welder on hand :dunno: And even use galvanized threaded rod :brows: Back when I need J-bolts, no store had them on hand, and I had the 3/8" carriage bolts on hand, and used them :D Reading the post for J-bolts at 5.95 for a pair.......plus shipping....... :hmm: 3/8" x 5" carriage bolts.........60 cents each......little grinding and little heat.... :dunno:

Correct :D From your video is just shows that the U-joint has play and needs replacing. I just pointed out what I did, as I'm one to take the wheel and bearing hub off, and get every thing done in one shot :brows: Saves time down the road for future repairs/replacements. Plus, my brake pads were just about done, and inspection is due. You can just pull the bearing hub and axle as one, and work on the U-joint. You don't need to get the spindle nut off that way. I wouldn't blame it on pot holes, we have bigger and many more up this way :headpop: It's more than likely from moister getting inside the bearing and killing the U-joint :( Make sure you replace the U's with grease-able ones, and grease them on a regulator basic.

I just did front U-joints on my '89 last Sunday. Course.......while I was at it......I also replace the rotors, calipers, new soft lines and pads.......and of course the broken off Hard line :roll: Oh, and rotated the tires too......and checked the rear shoes......and bleed the entire brake system. Start to finish was >7 hours.

Yea.........Happy 4th :USAflag: everyone :banana: I'm hoping the dang fireworks don't keep me up past my bedtime :fs1:

I've made some "J" bolts for the straps - 3/8" x 5" carriage bolts, ground the heads down to fit into the key holes, heated and bent the heads to a 90*, Done :D

The CPS can be tested from the connector, set a volt meter on 0-500 ohms, test leads A & B and you should read 125-275 ohms, out of that range, replacement time.

Ok........as long as you don't start asking where the EEC connector is, we'll be just fine....... :roll: You should have 3 wires coming off the alternator - The 18 Tan line is for the dash warning light. "L" post on alt. connector. The 16 Yellow feeds to the ignition module. "F" post on alt. connector. And the 8 Red to the starter relay, alt. feed. You have no mention of the #8 Red wire :dunno: The book says..........Detach wired from alt. Switch on, engine not running , connect voltmeter from ground to "L" = zero reading indicates open circuit between terminal and battery. Correct as required. That's about all there is to test, except for the run-test across battery post, getting within 13.0 volts or above for output.

:agree: This thing - Just make a jumper wire and connect the two female connectors together, to bypass the resistor. See if you can get fuel pressure at the test port. With a pressure gauge, or just push the pin in and see if fuel squirts out. Have rags under the test port. If this don't work, we'll go to the next level.

Jim.......give me a call tomorrow, I should be over to the shop........I have a couple SWB you can look at and compare what you have now, and what you'll need. Plus........I just might want to get rid of that one blue SWB MJ, the one with the wooden flat bed.......with the 2.5 in it :roll:

I'll second on the vacuum leak. Sounds like you brake booster has a leak, and when your riding the brakes, you changing the position of the diaphragm, allowing more vacuum for the fuel pressure regulator. If your talking about a 4.0 Renix era engine, you should be reading 31psi at the test port with the pressure regulator connected, and 39psi with the vacuum line disconnected.

Double check your wiring at the starter relay, trace all the wires that should be hooked up from the FSM, or wiring diagram. Yes, get your ECU grounded, even run a separate ground wire from the mounting plate to the ground stud on the engine block. I'm surprised that you got it started with out the ECU being grounded :eek: I've had that problem before with the fuel pump not running because the ECU was not grounded. And where did you get the PCM from :dunno: That's a Ford brain box. Oh, and one more thing........is the belt tension set tight enough??? or is it slipping at the alternator???

Congrats 09 on your COTM :clapping: Nice looking "Newer" Stock Comanche :yes: It's great that you got that all put together in a year time :thumbsup: I really like that Silver color too :banana:

Check the ground wire behind the left tail light, besides grounding the tail lights, it's also the ground for the fuel pump and sending unit. Post what year MJ we're talking about, and there might be a couple other things to check. Oh, and 3 or 4 X's on swapping out the front axle yourself.

OK.......rub it in........just because I need to use this set - Just to get the windshield wiper arm off.......don't mean I need to use it on everything...... :fs1:

Happy Canada Day :Canadaflag: to you all :cheers:

Try heating the nut up a little with a propane torch, that will expand the nut some, and cook some of the "rust weld" in the line.

I think I hear you the first time :roll: Yes, I have a newer bed in the shop.........just no time to paint it and swap it out :fs1: You seen the whole fleet.......several times I've posted that up......but you can find them here- (need to add some summer pictures :roll: ) Yea, I don't like it either :( But, mechanically it's top notched :D Just redone the front end this weekend.....again. Just rolled 260 miles on it yesterday :banana: What I don't like is some of the ones in the fleet that don't look real bad.......until you look underneath, and see a section of frame missing :headpop: They kind of go this way........

What your describing is kind of normal, you can shift between 2wd and 4hi "on the fly" up to about 30mph. It should be a smooth transaction. When you shift into 4lo, you need to stop, and then shift into low, that's why you need to move the lever to the right to get pass the dog in the shifter, into neutral, then 4lo. Shifting into 4hi is just engaging the chain in the TC. Shifting into 4lo is also shifting the gear ratio in the TC. You could very well be in 4w hi and not know it, do this on gravel, or dirt, not on hard pavement, but shift in 4hi, and hit the gas, see if you have spin on the front wheels. Also.......after you shift out of 4lo, you should back up about 10 feet to disengage the TC. Don't rely on the dash light, I had one that the light was on all the time, 2wd or 4wd, the switch was messed up, the pulling the wire off the switch solved that. I've spent enough time in mine, that I can feel when it's in 4hi.

For seats.........I'd take Cloth over vinyl any day :yes: If you have the budget.......go Leather :D I found it best to find the small old, well established upholstery shop, there well experienced, been around for a long time, and usually have the best prices for the better workmanship. Last time I price out having 2 buckets done in cloth, I got a price of $150. And that was with the seats removed, dropped off, and picked up.

When you swapped out to the '92 header, did you use that header harness??? The '86 has some odd wiring, even different from the '87-'90 Renix era. Then you jumped to the '92 (HO era) and that wiring is completely different from the Renix era. If you want to leave the '92 harness in place, your going to have to trace down each wire/function, and splice it into the '86 harness, You'll need both wire diagrams to do this.

If it was the plug on the passenger side, yes, that's the fill plug, the drain is in the rear of the BA10. I too had this problem, and I'm thinking it's from the last time I changed/filled it, I think I had the back end jacked up, couple weeks ago I was checking everything, the had the front jacked up, and when I pulled the plug, the 70W90 started pouring out :eek: Which end did you have jacked up???

:wavey: And here's the picture to prove it :D You can tell FiremanSteve's MJ........It's the clean one ;) Oh......and nice MJ'ing with you for the afternoon :banana:

:agree: I can use that LWB box on one of my rotted out $350 4wd MJ's that has an engine that runs :yes:

You could use the auto Throttle body for the manual, but you'll need to change out the IAC, or unplug one of the connectors, which one, I don't know off hand. Yes, you could use the automatic ECU (5300-5406 or 5428) in place of the manual Ecu (5300-5407 or 5429) but your idle might be a little high. One question.......we are talking about 4.0 engines here, correct, nothing to do with the 2.5, right :hmm:

Started on replacing the right front D30 U-joint.........and one thing lead to another, and ended up putting on both U-joints.......and front pads.......and new rotors......and new calipers......and new soft lines.........and even got to replace one of the hard lines that broke off from rust :headpop: Other wise.......typical Jeep :wrench: day :yes: