Wildman

:agree: Caught a couple of 'episodes' on History channel.com....... :shake: I guest the "reality" shows *which I never watch* have ran there course, so to fill cable waves, they gave some fools some tools, and that's what they get :shake: By the time they "slice" what ever open, it's so destroyed, you can't make out what it even was in the beginning :hmm: I'm sure after the "host" slices off his leg in one of his experiments........the show will be put to bed. That show don't belong on the History channel, maybe over on Comedy central :dunno: On a side note........caught the first 2 episodes over the weekend on America: the story of US. Now, that's a good History show :yes:

Around here.........4.0 engines go for $250, with low (100K) mileage. If that's what you have, you didn't state. By the time you mess with trying to un-seize it, and not knowing what you'll end up with, you could have the engine swapped :roll: You don't have alot of $$$ into it now, so that's worth swapping out the engine, and what ever else is needed to get it in good running shape. The correct way to un-seize it, is to pull the head, pour PB-blaster onto each piston, let sit, repeat a couple of time, then hit the piston with a block of wood and a mallet. Once you pull the head, you'll also see what you have inside. There more of a chance a bearing is spun and seized. Like I said, swapping is quicker that messing around. If your going to use oil or water in the head to un-seize it, then you have a good chance of blowing the head........IE: Hydro-lock. These engines are not Farm tractor engines :roll:

Congrats 89 on the MJOTM :clapping: Very nice, Great looking original Eliminator interior :yes: Nice Build-up too :thumbsup:

No, your not.........been into Fords long before I tripped over the Jeeps :yes: I too have been having problems with Advance parts, installed a new set of wheel bearing on the E350, put on 1600 miles and had the outer bearing fail :eek: That cost me a $150 tow bill, upper and lower ball joints, spindle and hub, and calipers.......Oh, and another front end alignment that was 1 month old.........I pulled all 4 wheel bearings, and they credit me, but wouldn't cover any additional costs :fs2: What kicks me, is the life time warranties, there system only goes back 2-1/2 years, and they will only replace some of the parts one time........try it, I have. You better keep all your receipts from them, if you do need to go back further that that time period. I will agree that they do stand behind there products, and depending on the store, they have some helpful, intelligent counter people. It's nice to call the store, and have them do a starter warranty from another store, over the phone, when your 60 miles away. Been there, done that :D Yea, I'll keep buying from Advance, they beat the "other" stores hands down.

A SWB gas tank will fit in place of the LWB tank. In fact, the 23.5 gallon tank was an option over the stock 18 gallon tank. If the tank you picked up is in good condition, and priced right, then use it, unless it really bothers you that you'll be missing 5.5 gallons on a fill-up.........But look at the $$$ you'll save on a fill-up :D You'll only need 2 of the the 3 straps to hold the tank in place. Oh, and I only answered one of you same post :D

If the truck has been sitting.........it could just be some surface rust on the rotors and drums. And the more you drive, the warmer the rotors/pads get, and start "cutting" into the rust. It might not be a bad idea to pull the wheels and check them out, and even hit them with a wire brush. Would also give you a chance to check the soft lines for cracks and bulges. Plus........whens the last time you checked the "self-adjusters" on the drums???? They really don't "self-adjust" :roll:

You could always check out this site for some welding tips on body work, lots of info there to weed thru - http://autobodystore.com/ The real secret with mig/core welding is getting the buzz. And, Not this :chillin: buzz........... :shake: When your welding and you got the right amp setting, right speed, and right angle, you'll hear the weld buzz. That when you got a good weld, with good penetration.

Not totally........Some of us are allergic to insect bites, so any type of bite affects the allergenic person more so that people that are not allergic. I'm bad with any type of insect bite, more so with bee stings, hives, swelling.......Benadryl and sleep for 3 days :eek: I have scares on my legs from flea bite 5 years ago went the stupid woman down stair moved out with her cats, and left the fleas behind. We ended up bombing the house twice to get rid of them :fs1: My oldest brother is so bad with bee stings, he carries a epinephrine kit with him. So hearing that some one died from a spider bit is not unheard of.

And thanks to Mr. Hornbrod for coming up with the perfect solution.......again :yes: :cheers: Makes total sense to me on how to test if the load valve is really working. Yes, the tools for testing/installing the valve............ :dunno: The only thought is.........to make something similar to what you need, or improvise something to do the function.........I don't think you'll ever find the tools :(

:agree: with Mr. Hornbrod, get the FSM over any off the shelf book. And for your viewing pleasure........... Little dirty, but cheap - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0286543685 Great shape and good price - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Wra ... rsQ5fManua Just make sure you get the 2 book set, body/engine and the electrical. Also, the '89 will cover all '87-'90 Renix era models. Both those listings are alot better that the $100 I paid for my FSM :doh: But my set was brand spanking new :D Now with many tags on the chapters :roll:

:hmm: I watch the video, and heard that quick talking dude say $8,000, after no one bid $8,200. But.........did they have a 10% buyers premium added in the auction sale :dunno: I hate auctions like that, cause what you think you got it for, the auctioneer adds his pocket money to your price :fs1: And after collecting 20% or more from the seller :headpop:

So........after changing out the flasher, the turn singles now work??? OK....... The bulbs in the dash maybe shot, there #194 bulbs. You'll need to pull the cluster out to check/change them.

BTW..........I was at this corner last Thursday..........I :wavey: don't know I you seen me on the other side of the gorge or not :dunno: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source= ... 13411&z=16 Oh, that's right.........your further up in Ontario :doh: Well........I :waving: at someone over in :Canadaflag:

:rotfl2: That's how I got my driver now, well, 6 years ago, the rear brake lines were shot, and the guy dropped the price $250 just to get rid of it........he had compression fitting on the lines and couldn't get it to stop leaking.......... :teehee: And the scary thing was........he was a race car driver :eek: I guest his pit crew didn't work on this MJ :dunno: But.......his soul is resting now, he passed about 1-1/2 years after I bought the MJ from him, and I can't ever get rid of it, because one of his old friends lives across the street from me, and every time I talk to her, she reminds me that it was Vinny's Jeep. Unless I move......... :roll: I don't know of any way to test it, if it's working or not...... In my '89 FSM on page 5-5 it shows the adjustment......and the 'special' tools needed, but no mention if it even works after the adjustment :dunno:

No one answered this for you yet :eek: I'm looking at the '89 FSM.......where the wires go - Terminal A = from O2 heat relay - 14OR Terminal B = to splice C7 (Ground) - 18BK Terminal C = to ECU - 18GY *note: wire gauge (18) color (GY) That help :dunno:

The yellow flasher would be a OEM one. You can tell by your picture that the hazard flasher has been replaced with a HD metal flasher. Did you try switching the two yet??? There both the same as far as plug in. But......Mr. Eagle brings up a point, when you said the dash lights (arrows) don't flash when the hazards are on, but the brake lights and 4-ways work :hmm: If you really want to get into changing out the multi switch, here's a down load for you - http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip

No Problem :D Glad you caught that other topic and got the discount :brows: See........it pays to read all of this forum....... :teehee:

I'll agree........ ........IF your load sensing valve is in working condition. The problem is, alot of them are not, and there are NO replacement parts available, nor the tools to service them. I just cringe when I see something like you found under there :eek: Good Luck ;)

:agree: Welding wire is labeled as "Thousands of an inch" not gauge. But.......your better going with .023 flex-core wire for sheet metal with a 110v welder. .035 wire is generally used for steel 3/16" -1/4"+ Plus, you need to watch the "Duty-rating" on the welder, .035 pushes the duty rating down. .023 is easier on the duty rating. Duty rating = amount of time you can weld between cool down cycles. I prefer solid wire with gas, that way you can increase the gas pressure if your starting to burn thru sheet metal. And you get a cleaner weld, less splatter and scale with using gas. But, you have to deal with what your friend is loaning you ;) The 20 gauge sheet metal your using should be fine for the floor pan, a little thin, but easier to work with for shaping it it.

Are you asking for something that would fit stock??? If so......www.rockauto.com CARTER Part # P74155 More Info {In Tank Fuel Pump and Strainer Set} w/Bosch OE Pump Part Image $84.79 more than likely the OEM pump would be the Bosch, and that Carter kit is a good replacement. Plus.......here's a discount code for rock :brows: Enter the code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. 30727991625403

Check your fuse block, the turn signal fuse is #8. Also switch out the two flasher for each other to see if that helps. The brake lights and 4-ways are on the other flasher, and fuse #12.

Yes, New parts are a hit and miss in some cases.........or they don't last 20 years and 200K like the OEM part :headpop: So, it you got it on the lift today.........let us know what ya found :popcorn:

Now that is Good news, that it went to a MJ owner and collector :yes: At least it didn't end up in some obscure collection, never to be seen again. Yea, it went for more that what alot of us thought it would go for :( We all know how bad Pete want this MJ in his living room as a coffee table. So, hopefully the New owner will drop in to our secret corner of the net and share his new trophy with us :banana:

Try lifting up on the foot pedal to see if your closing the light switch, that could be your problem. If not, we just covered this a couple weeks ago.........read thru this........ viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22614&hilit=brake+light+on

Well.......ya didn't post that every thing was new :hmm: Yea, that's possible, but unlikely........ The supply line is larger that the return line. They could be crossed at some point. Or, even thought the terminals on the pump are different, you still could have reversed polarity :dunno: