Wildman

:agree: Same thing I was thinking..........The "new" owners get tired of people going thru everything, and just get one Scrapper in there for a lump sum (2 cents on the dollar) and scrap it all :eek: They seam smart enough to have all you guys go thru first, and not just to back a dumpster up to the garage. Rob - I get your point, things were upstairs and put away, then just pulled down and scattered around. I just thought it was always like that :teehee:

maddzz1 - Take a look thru CRL and see if there is anything that you can use - This is the GM 'catalog' http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showL ... tory=:2740 Plus this is the full 'catalog' for glass clips - http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showL ... 0587::2740

Great Pictures and Videos :yes: :popcorn: Ok..........so.........I'm kind of :hmm: ............ With all the 'Parts' and vehicles "packed" into the buildings.......... How did the guy ever get any work done with out tripping over everything :dunno: (and I thought my shop was messy :headpop: )

And add......... Support Comanche Club = Priceless :D

I just looked real quick for pictures too........nothing came up :hmm: If you found the fill plug on the passenger side, the drain plug looks the same, on the rear, bottom of the tranny, facing towards the back. As noted.......make sure the fill plug will come out first, before attempting to remove the drain plug. I too took an odd 3/8" extension, and ground that down, but......you can now buy a kit if you want at harbor fright with square metric internal sockets. You need a suction gun to fill the tranny, with 5.2 pints for 2wd OR 4.9 pints for 4wd, with what every your putting in there. Or....you can fill it from the shifter......if you want to take that all apart.

Great Pictures Rob!!!!! :yes: :popcorn: :popcorn: Hehe........the first couple look like a Saturday morning auction :teehee: So......I take it you all came out with some items of interest :D I know I would be been lost in that world with all the AMC parts flowing around. It would have been about 3 days before I came out of there with some good finds :D Nice group picture too :wavey:

Only if you want to see behind you on the right side........... :teehee: Junk yard or e-bay one up north :dunno: pretty easy replacement. The speed-o cable..........I think Rockauto carries them. If you steering wheel is off center, that would be the adjustment on the drag link. But, check all the TRE's and other parts before you take it into a shop, but it might need a good front end alignment, even at stock height.

No, 2057's are the same bulb. In fact, I just checked the book, and it calls for 2057. I'm just stuck with the old number of 1157 :nuts: Yea, I know we "talked" about that harness you have ;) Like I said, it could be the crimps in the harness that's causing your problems. I would still check the other harness before you put it in thought.

How come this question comes up once a year :hmm: Must be a spring time thing :dunno: :shake:

Yea.......nice find........I know there hard to find for the LWB :eek: Now......if the price went up another $50, it would cover what I paid for the whole '87 LWB MJ I bought that just so happen to have the roll bar with it.........and the OEM sun-roof :brows:

Yes, your making progress :D You did a smart thing to disconnect the rear lights to narrow it down :thumbsup: The rear harness, between the rear apron and bumper has OEM crimps in the line, where the plate lites tied in, and the right side markers were tapped from the left side, the best thing is to pull the harness right off the truck, and sit down in front of your work bench, and pull the tape off and inspect, and replace all the crimp connector on the harness, and what ever corroded wires you find. I've used butt connectors with die-electric grease, but to do it again, I would use them new connectors with the self shrink wrap on them for a permanent fix. Also, inspect the light sockets, there plastic back there, and don't go bad that often, but it can happen. I'm thinking that Cherokee found some sockets that were close to the originals, but I'm not sure what he used........maybe he'll chime in here on that ;) Also........make sure the bulbs are orientated in the sockets correctly. And that you have 1157 bulbs in there........and 1156 for the back up lights.

:hmm: :dunno: You mean the tree??? Where all the lines connect??? I don't think a parts store would have a part like that.........JY is your only bet. You could check the "Help" section to see first :dunno:

So your finally on the road......... :jump: Do you have True death wobble.......or just front end shimming????? Check all the front end components, TRE's, Track bar (mainly at the frame end) tires out of balance, alignment??? Did your speed-o cable just pop off the cluster, or the inner cable broke??? You can get a replacement cable if that the case........I'm sure after all this work, you don't want an Impounded MJ from the MP's :eek: Just go very slow.

That's true........I didn't think of the '97+ D30 ;) That's what I like about our one P-N-P, all axles, with disc's are $60.95 +$4.95 core charge :yes: And, it don't matter what it came off of :D

Generally, the IAC will cause high idle at start-up, and rough idling. Also check your MAP, make sure the vacuum line is clear and connected on both ends. Another possible cause is the EGR valve, I had one so bad, it would choke the engine right out, I disconnected it, and plugged the vacuum line *we don't have sniffer test here on anything before '96* And.......while your at it, check ALL the vacuum lines, one loose/cracked hose could cause rough idling.

That's not that bad. I've seen alot worst, like no sheet metal left at all. Just amazing how far up the tranny hump the rust is on the passenger side :eek: While your under there, check out the frame just in front of the front leaf perch, that's where most of the frames rot out the worst for some reason.

:hmm: I got one '86 that had the 2.5, power steering, no AC, and that has the V-belt :dunno: Maybe I got the red-headed step child MJ :eek:

Yes, I'll agree, a new part should work perfect. That's why we all use that word AssUme. :typing: Firefox all the way :D I've never used IE, I've been on Mozilla/Firefox for the past 14 years and don't plan on changing now. Plus.......I really need the spell correct :D Well.......your last statement is one of the reasons I don't make time to visit other Forums :yes: I think you narrow it down to a brand spanking new defective fuel pump. But I would still pull it and check to make sure the sock filter is not plugged up, and that the soft line is not kinked or off the supply line.

5th one down the list........ http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

Don........I didn't say you were....... :roll: But, you made me think of the door weather strip :idea: as a possible wind noise :D I've seen where the rubber flaps have come off, or deteriorated, and that would make a direct source of the noise the OP was asking about. Seen how they work as a "one way valve" pushing pressure out, and not able to let air into the cap. But, I also agree, there is so much other noise in the cap, I wouldn't hear that noise.........even with my one somewhat good hearing ear ;)

Got your PM......give me a couple of days to get them boxed up and on there way ;)

Most are looking for an "un-damaged" header panel :teehee: If your any where's near me, I have several you can have. If you want, I can cut the ends off and ship them out too.

A very easy solution to your problem is to find a '93+ D30 (non-disco) and swap that in, then you don't need to worry about if the '90+ unit bearing would fit, and would be setup for future 4wd :yes: With all the axle swapping you have done, you could swap in the D30 faster than dealing with the wheel hub bearings :yes:

:offtopic: Yes, Mr. Hornbrod also make a good point........... Some of your wind noise could be from the door weatherstrip being old and un-pliable. (And give the new guy a brake Don ;) )

If the IAC is good *and clean* There is a small adjustment screw on the back of the TB throttle arm that can be adjusted for idle. Seam to know someone whom used a manual TB with a AW4 swap, and had to make this adjustment :D