Wildman

:agree: That's the only place I've seen them, they pop up every once in a while on the Bay. Note: the one's I've seen sell.........you better have very deep pockets too :eek:

Have you made out any better since the phone call?????? jteckmann - The bolts he wrote about are "sheet-metal" screws, into the under side of the bed, they rust out, and just spin. The only way I've gotten them out is with a zip wheel, but I told bad_MJ not to use a grinder under there with all the gas :eek: Maybe try to chisel the head of the screws off :dunno: If you leaking really that bad........drain the tank out, either with a siphon hose/pump, or disconnect the fuel line at the gas filter, and jump the relay to run the pump. If you take out say 5 gallons of fuel, check to see if you still leaking, if not, then you know the leak is up high. Your SWB, correct......so you only have 18 gallons of gas in the tank of a full fill up. Call me if you need any more help ;)

The front skid plate is OEM. You'll also find a gas tank skid plate (MJ), and a transfer case skid plate on the same truck. "off road" packages had this equipment, along with front tow hooks and a limited slip rear axle as part of the package.

:jump: :teehee: Yea........leave it to MJeff to come up with that :rotfl2: Don.......That's interesting that the brake pads are shaped different :hmm: Something to really keep in mind down the road :thumbsup:

OK, I should have qualified that with an IMHO. I just personally would have a radiator made of metal, seems to be a concensus on all the Jeep forums AND it just makes sense that aluminum core crimped on to ...plastic...just isn't as strong. If you're getting good results then great! And I'll 2X's that statement :yes: As I replace my radiator in the E350 this weekend...........only 2nd time in the past 4 years I need to do that again :roll: Hey.......they sold me a *life time warranty* Plastic/aluminum radiator, so it just my time for the free replacement :fs1: And Yes, it leaks right at the top seam of the plastic/aluminum :yes:

Seen how you originally asked where to get an automatic tranny......... If you really want to check it out first, read thru this, it will take you step by step for diagnosing a problem - http://www.transonline.com/transdigest/ ... index.html But.......if it's slipping in reverse, I would think the tranny is shot :roll: That's usually the first thing to go south on the AW4 (and Ford) trannys. There really not too hard to swap out, and there are a couple of write-ups on the DIY forum.

http://www.car-part.com/ You can narrow the search down to your local area, or state, or region. Or, check your local Junk Yards :brows:

All the hard brake lines are 3/16", this you can buy in bulk, 25 foot rolls. All the nuts are 3/8" X 3/16" hollow nuts (shorts) these you can buy 10 in a pack. For the soft lines, those you can get from a parts store. The rear soft line, you might want to up grade to a early Dakota line for the longer length if you plan on an lift. Also, double flair all the hard lines :yes: If you have the load equalizer in place and functioning, you need to replace that 2nd hard line, or like most of us have done, deleted it, and run a single line to the rear, and block off the lower front port on the disputation valve. There are some write-ups on this in the DIY section.

Well.......you figured the slave was shot, right?? Good thing you took that "extra" one :D I meant to ask you about the old BA10, but your description of it tells me what I was wondering :roll: Was the input shaft floating around much :rotfl2: Oh.......and don't forget to double check that CPS before you jack it up in place, that's one of the first things off, and the last thing back on. You said you have a boat????? Now you have an anchor for the boat :teehee:

How come in the 2nd picture.........it looks like a nail sticking in the chicken's head :hmm: Is that one of them 'hammer head' chickens :dunno:

I still don't think that will work Read up on this - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm Besides the difference with the CamPS, there are some other internal parts that the HO has that the Renix don't have. I'll agree with Correy, just get a Renix distributor and replace it that way ;) And yes, I've have to drill out and re-tap the mounting screws before, and didn't have quite the problem you had. Real poor design :shake:

Your fuel pressure is with in range of the spec's, in fact, right on :thumbsup: What could be happening, is the injectors are leaking down while it's sitting, a common problem with age, and mileage. You could replace the injectors with new "re-build" ones that might solve the problem, there are a few topics on that subject. Try this trick........turn the key "on" and wait a few seconds......like 30 seconds. Then hit the starter, and see if it starts any quicker. The will re-pressurizer the fuel rail. I need to do that to my MJ. If your into Jeep, then you know that the Renix system is not a super quick start, it take the engine to rotate about 3-4 turns for the CPS to do it's thing and tell the ECU to fire the engine. As far as shimming over the CAD, not all of us have done it, I had to replace the vacuum motor a few years ago, and had no problem afterwords, I like the CAD to work as it should, but I'm sure you'll get different answers on that subject around here.

OK......... Well, I would check the inside firewall to see if your clutch master is leaking brake fluid down on to the fuse box, that could cause some major damage, and electrical shorts......very common problem. The seat belt wire you wrote about, it not a major problem, that's just a light and buzzer open ground. The wires at the rear could be from an old trailer connection, and yes, should be traced back and disconnected before they cause problems. As far and stopping over to check it out........well.......I'm a little out of range :roll:

Yea, I got one for a '86, 2.5 Have the whole intake too if you need. It has the injector set, but I can remove that if you don't need it. Funny........I have the above, but not the engine for the thing :hmm: (bought the MJ that way :teehee: )

Yea..........trying to run it on a Dodge V8 ECU might flood the injectors :hmm: Could you back up some, and post some additional details. Like year, engine, tranny. What caused it Not to fire (start) in the first place. Did you have the CPS connected......does it test out good??? Did you set the distributor "perfect" the first time??? That seam to be a common problem, having it off one tooth, and a no start. There's a ground wire on the ECU. Is it connected??? the connection is at the stud on the right bank of the block, where the battery ground connects. Oh, and welcome to the CC :waving:

I Haven't had the same problem :eek: But your post is kind of open ended :hmm: You left out alot of details too :dunno: Do you by chance have an manual transmission??? Have you checked to see if the master cylinder is leaking on the fuse block??? If you had smoke, and the fuse melted, you have a very serious electrical problem. Don't put a fuse back in until you do some digging and find the source of the problem. The fuse you pulled, feeds the dash lights, parking lights, the ones you wrote that you don't have, so that's where you need to be looking for a dead short. It could be the light switch shorting out, or the wires that run under the floor mat, under the drivers seat, that also carries the fuel pump electrical feed. As Pete would say........."Pull your carpet out" and check the wire harness, back track to the kick panel, and then check out the light switch. This could go back to the front header panel, with the turns/markers too, one having a bad light socket, causing the short. You need to do some investigating ;) Oh, and welcome to the CC :wavey:

So..........you made it back home :D Yes, you need to drop the exhaust, the cat bracket is supported on the tranny mount, that will slide right out. An impact gun makes short work of getting the bolts out of the bell housing :roll: You can leave the cross member on, and pull it that way, or remove it, and just deal with the tranny and transfer case as a unit. Best to have a tranny jack, but a floor jack will work. When you drop the tranny down, yes, you'll see the external tork bolts on the top of the bell housing, and you'll be able to reach them. When you do drop the tranny, watch you don't put the fan blades into the radiator :eek: Don't drop it that much. You didn't mention that you removed the starter, clutch line or the CPS, take them off before you get too far. Have fun :wrench:

Check Rockauto.com They carry the quick connect fittings.

:eek: Yea, I think your right :hmm: That cool, let them flood the market, and we'll start picking them up for $7.50 again :banana: I'll keep hording........ah, er, Storing my sets for now :D

Click this topic and scan down about 7 post, it will answer your question on the windshield trim and what to use to stop the leak - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14878&hilit=windshield+leak&start=120 *sure saves me a lot of typing* :D

I think you better read thru this..........before you make any rash decisions....... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12206 There are a "few" more items needed than just the TCU to swap in a AW4 :roll: I'm sure someone on here has an AX-15 bell housing for a replacement for you ;)

Hey Pete....... Seen how your snatching all this Comanche stuff up........... Here's one for you...........It's a girl's Jeep Comanche........ http://buffalo.craigslist.org/bik/1654572199.html Want me to pick it up for you and ship it?? :teehee:

The beloved ComanRanger is up for sale :eek: Hurry before it gone............ http://buffalo.craigslist.org/cto/1654747159.html

I understand ;) I know your looking for an upholstery shop. Local here, I know a good ole shop, that's very fair, up your way....... :dunno: Have you checked any local junk yards that just might have a MJ, and a good headliner, or at least the backer card???

Totally agree, yea, we all know some of the parts just are not there anymore, and for "us" that hoard the parts, for other members, seeing these ridicules prices :shake: I know a local member got mad at me because I wanted $80 for a pair of bucket seat sliders, but I told him, if he could find them in a JY, fine, If he seen a set on e-bay, he would be paying $160-$225 for them. Was I wrong :dunno: I guest some people don't realize what I have invested in the MJ's and parts, plus what I pay to store them *shop rent is not free* :( And.......I got to get you your parts from a couple weeks ago, don't I Don :doh: