Wildman

True.......But there is also a adjustment screw on the back of the TB where the throttle lever sits, and this can "fine" tune the idle up or down.

:agree: Along with any other "celebrity" / "politician" out there. But.....the media's starvation for news needs to fill the air waves with something :headpop:

Yup.......I hope spring is coming...... Friday - Paid my mid January - mid February gas bill.......$188 :headpop: Saturday - First day in 25 straight it broke 32* :banana: Spring should be just around the corner :D

ouch :eek: That don't sound good :shake: Good chance the tranny shifted and took a clip at the CPS. I know, your sitting tight, but unless your old CPS looks like the new one I pictured, it's shot. If you can, try an Ohms test on the connector, ports A & B, you should read between 125-275 Ohms for a good sensor. any thing short of 125, and it's parts buying time.

OK I'll retract my statement about Tony the Grrreat :oops: So.......I just seen the news........what's this about he spent 45 days in a body condom :hmm:

:yes: :agree: :yes:

You could always take the front drive shaft off the TC and just reach up there :roll: If the housing is cracked :eek: Sorry to say, but it might be shot :( I know......it's cold.......but, check the bolts on the bell housing / engine, something shifted and I bet the flex plate hit the CPS when you went 'off roading' This is showing a good *new* CPS on the right, and a Flex plate hit the CPS because only one bolt was installed......On the left.

I must have been with the other billion people that didn't watch it :hmm: Didn't have anything to do with ratings.......*sell commercials*......did it :dunno: Tiger??? Tiger.............wasn't he the guy on the cereal box, that always said....Grrreat :hmm:

The first time you weren't on here for 22 hours straight, and you missed a snowball fight :peek: Yea, thanks for cleaning this up and bringing it back, it's informative information that belongs here :yes:

And I think I know why :hmm: Yea, this topic......."Canada's last WW I veteran dies" It's ironic that our one famous member had something to do with this :dunno: Unless after I click off last night it got a little more out of hand :shake: Normally the topic gets clean up, this time, it got vaporized :eek: I can understand the reasoning for this, but, and I hope, the OP was given an expiation to what happen, after all, it was a clean, informational post, and well, until one member added an off color reply :shake: Seams like this one member has been sent to the corner several times.........You think it's time to pull the plug :dunno:

The sock filter should be on the fuel pump, in the tank, it could have fallen off when you pulled the sending unit out, if you have really skinny arms, see if you can reach in the tank and find it. If the truck was running with out the sock filter, that could be a problem, no mater how clean the inside of the tank looks.......there is still debris present. Mr. Hornbrod brings up a very good tip for you. Your at the point that you should clean out the fuel lines, and replace ALL filters. The problem you might have now, and lets not hope it's that bad........but, any crud in the fuel lines are not nice to the injectors :eek: 6 month old gas is varnish, the injectors don't squirt varnish.......get where I'm going here. Clean out the lines, replace the filters, and with fresh gas, see if you have any pressure at the fuel rail. Oh, and don't be afraid to add some injector cleaner to the fresh gas.

The CPS is on the bell housing :yes: If it not the coolant temp sensor, the other one is the knock sensor........Don't mess with either of them :eek: OK.........When will some people realize that All American car manufacturers Begin production in July/August of the year to "produce" that year model :dunno: Plant change over begins around May. On the news yesterday, the Tonawanda engine plant just got the new Ecotec engine, and are tooling up now for production to roll out by June, for the 2011 models. http://www.buffalonews.com/home/story/960767.html Ever hear of the new models being in the show room on September 1st??? So, if you want to buy a brand new Commander, with the Model year 2011, you can order one now, and pick it up on September 1st :D Oh, it's still 2010........but it will be a 2011 model :eek: Yes, the some '87's had the ballast resistor installed OEM, but the earlier models did not, and the Service bulletin updated them, if the dealer did do the work. Same for the '89 model year, after November production, all MJ's received the AX15, because AMC finally ran out of the BA10 :clapping: Sorry for the :rant:

Main speedo cable, Sensor with wire to that stupid yellow box I forgot, and short cable to the back of the cluster. All in line.

:shake: Someones going to get sent to the corner again :no: 109 years old :eek: (have to tell my 93 year old father that one, of course he's still living WW2 :roll: ) Quite the story there :bowdown: RIP

And your right :yes: (I didn't) :rotfl2: I'll have to side with shelbyluvv........your new here, and were all old (posters) When some one new enters our neighborhood, and posts a "Questionable" question, well, the flags go up. Seen alot of newbies come and go, it's your choice to stay or not, just keep some "personal" remarks to your self, and the flags wouldn't go up ;) And.......Take Mr. Aemsee's advice, he's been inside more AMC engines than most of us have looked at from the outside :ack:

The speedo cable splits off behind the cluster, inside the dash. With the pick up sensor, and the "upper" cable (short) going to the speedometer.

I think you found the problem right there :yes: I was thinking that last night, and wondering how much of an angle the the truck was in the ditch :hmm: If your bell housing has alot of oil in it from the RMS or valve cover leaking, and you get oil coated on the flywheel/flex plate (don't know if you have an auto or manual) the oil can "coat" the pickup on the CPS......and bingo, no spark :eek: The only way to check it is to see if you have any spark. then it the fun filled job of pulling the CPS and either cleaning it, or (what I would do) Replace it with a new one from the Dealer (that's one part that is a sure thing from the dealer) Every one is correct that the Ballast resistor was not installed in the '87 model, But, there was a Service Bulletin that was an after thought, and some '87 did have the resistor installed in them on the SB at the dealer. Same as the CPS patch (Ive only seen one of them so far)

I don't think he's talking about the computer for the engine. He's talking about the computer or control box for the cruise control. It looks like this: Yea, I seen the word "brains" and mine wasn't working :doh: Brains = Computer = ECU........this time I was wrong :oops: jimoshel......you grabbed the handle on this, the floor is your :bowdown:

Thanks for the info jimoshel ;) Then if the OP want curse in his 2.5, he'll need to pull it from a 2.5 donor, not a 4.0 donor.

:agree: Well said :yes: JY are there for a reason, even before the C$C deal, and used electrical devices :shake:

As far as common upgrades and repairs.........guest you didn't get around the board much :roll: viewforum.php?f=9 And my favorite :D viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15904 So, grab a cold one, and start checking out the DIY forum :brows: And as Noted.......Pete keeps things simple around here, and Most of us like it that way K.I.S.S :D Oh, and welcome to the madness :wavey:

I might be wrong........but I don't think the 2.5 ever had cruse control :hmm: If I'm wrong.......someone jump in here. The ECU from a 4.0 Will Not work for a 2.5 :no: Your injector(s) *on a 4.0, the six of them* are pulsed from the ECU, plus, the idle is controlled from the ECU, and the ignition. Here's a topic on adding cruse control you might want to read up on....... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18358&hilit=cruse+control The delay wipers is just a matter of adding a control box in the wire connector, just at the base of the steering column, behind the knee panel and of course, you do need the stalk with the intermediate wipers, including the smart switch inside the column. It might be easier to swap out the entire steering column than to pull the column apart in the JY. Plus, you just might end up with a tilt column :brows:

:banana: Baltimore beat Buffalo in the snow amount as of this past weekend :D Even over the 'average' of 62" we get every year :roll: Now we are not know as the "Snow Capital of the World" :clapping: About time some other area "share" the snow we have to put up with :fs1: Mr. Hornbrod, good to see pictures like that........now once we get out of the below 30* everyday, I'll be thinking of that :yes:

Welcome aboard swoop. You'll fit in just fine here mate. :cheers: :rotf:

Just to clear up the Axle question......... If you have a Auto, your rear axle should be 3.55 gears. If you have a Manual, your rear axle should be 3.07 gears. You would need to match up the front D30 with what your rear gears are, to simplify the swap. If you have an Auto now, and the donor XJ has an auto, you will match. To answer your main question, how to justify it to the wife.........Simple, the truck will dramatically increase in value :D Don't matter if you're up north, or down south, the value of the MJ will be much more as a 4wd. On resale, if the swap is done right, you'll get your money spent on the parts and for your time, Plus, it will sell much faster :D