Wildman

Did you check the U-joints??? That is normal check, when you hit about 30 mph and let off the gas, the U-joint will give you a clunk or really bad vibration.

That fuse your asking about is 7.5 amps (notice the point there) not 75 amps :eek: And that the fuse for the back up lights. Fuse #13 TRANS {Automatic transmission controls, Backup Lamps} Yea, I know......you have a manual. But that's the fuse, you can run a 10 amp in there OK.

Read that add really good.........That's for a 1/4" impact driver, like for installing screws, not a true Impact wrench, like 1/2" drive. If you got time to watch, then go the e-bay route, just be careful of the dealers that take a package deal, and break it up into individual parts :shake: like the tool, the charger and the battery (and case) all in separate auctions. There's plenty of them on e-bay :( The problem with going with the off brand things, like you posted first, some of the battery's and chargers are only for that tool, then you get a drill......different battery and charger, and before long......you got 4 tools all with different battery :fs1: Brand name, Porter-Cable, Milwaukee, Dewalt, make the tools to fit what battery you start with, 18v, 24v and so on.

No, them "Import" tools are not worth it :no: Just look at the '200lbs of torque' :shake: If your looking for cordless, Me, I'm set-up with all Milwaukee 14 and 18 volt tools. I watched e-bay until I got a very slightly used 18v impact for $90 :D Battery's and chargers I have with the other tools. If your looking for something in the garage, then pick up a good brand name 110v impact. I have a older B&D that I've had for years, and it will knock off lug nuts better than the 450 ft lbs pneumatic impact I have in the shop ;) If you check your local Craigslist, and watch e-bay, there are some good deals for used electric impacts out there. I know, Harbor Fright sells one, but, for a few uses, yea, for $45 might just do you fine. I was surprised to see Northern tools "advertising" on e-bay :eek: I guest there catalog sales are going down.

Are we talking about a 4.0??? Me......I wouldn't use one of them, I would replace the timing cover gasket and seal. You still need to remove the harmonic balance, so your 3/4's into it, to replace the seal. It's one of them jobs, that $10 in parts take about 4 hours + to do :headpop:

Sehr klein. ......I versteht einige gemeinsamen Wörter, aber es ist über den Generationen verloren worden. :( Ich habe meine Rechtschreibung gerechnet und Grammatik würde auf dies nicht herausgerufen werden. :D

I'll check and let you know.

Yes, that was very foolish for the garage to install them cables in that condition :shake: I've seen cable like that take the ECU out because they shorted out :eek: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17900&hilit=check+your+cables

Well.........That's one way to get your post count up.........just post the same thing 10 times :roll:

Now I'm getting my spelling/grammar corrected........... :shake: In my defense.............It's pronounced the same :yes: Besides...........Firefox spell correct said it was OK, so blame it on that :roll: Ich werde versuchen, jenen gleichen Fehler wieder nicht zu machen.

:rotf: Yeah right... Ladies... THATS a better joke. Rob L. :rotfl2: :no: :no: :no: Rob, you should know, there are some Ladies on this forum. There is one that does not post on the open forum much, but PM's me for parts to keep her '88 MJ plow truck up and running :yes: So, I guest Girls can drive MJ's too :dunno: Now I got to get the horse picture out of my mind :shake:

for what engine :dunno: 2.5 or 4.0 :hmm: And........were you located???

89Tonto..... Try this - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14904&hilit=cluster+swap

Here's some pictures of the Mirror I have-

If the 231 is popping out of 4lo, it could be just the shift linkage not adjusted correctly. I experienced that with my '89 last month plowing........just re-adjusted the linkage (again) and that solved the problem :D If this was mounted........I'd say to check the tranny mount also.

Or........cut/peel a section of the dust shield back so you can get a pair of vice-grips on the shaft. Another reason I like the Gabriel shocks, at least they still put a hex nut at the top of the shafts, under the washer ;)

fissed :yes: Maybe I'm dating myself........But, at one time, there was the Big 4 :roll: Mr. aemsee, as always, some very informational points :clapping:

I would think the first thing would be to change out the clutch with the original one from the 2wd.......... We're all on 'budgets', it's just extra time you need to do the swap :roll: I know this is time consuming, but, it's a "try" to see if your noise is from the clutch, or the tranny it's self. A shot in the Dark here.........I'm thinking there talking about the 2 clutch's, the BA10 or AX15. From Rockauto. com - BRUTE POWER / PERFECTION CLUTCH Part # 90414 More Info {#MU18901} 10.4" Clutch; Raised Diaphragm; 10.4x10Tx1 1/8 $167.99 Well all know how your parts store have a little less competition than ours :roll: I don't know YJ's but there is a chance, that the clutch is shot from that one, or what, just the slave/throwout bearing is the problem :dunno: Did you leave the pressure plate and clutch disk on your 4.0, and leave the slave in the "newer" BA10, and just bolt it up :hmm: If that's the case..........how do you know the slave is "matched" up with your original pressure plate???? In other words.......are they both from the same manufacture???

Yea........I wonder if the AMC engineers ever thought the Pacer would end up like that :hmm: Ya know........out of all the topics on this forum.......This one really brought out alot of history and info on how AMC competed as the lonely #4 :yes:

Yea........that was great :rotf:

Nothing really.........my first MJ was a 2.5........and that would be my last for street driving :razz:

Ya know........I got one of these......I took it off a '87 MJ I think, it only had it on the passenger side :dunno: I'll dig thru the shop tomorrow and see if I still have it. I'll post up a picture of it for you. If it's what your looking for, you can have it for the cost of shipping :D (so I can make more room in the shop for more MJ parts :yes: ) Oh, and your right, there called "Flag Mirrors"

One note.........if you do remove the shoulder belt, which is a lot of work :headpop: Do not let it coil all the way in, there is a point of no return, and once it pass that point, the belt return will not work correctly after words :eek:

I would think the bearing in the column are on there last breath :( Most steering columns have a little play in the wheel, foe and aft, but not more than an 1/8" Do you hear any "clunking" sounds when you turn the wheel?? Steering columns are cheap, and easy to replace, if it bothers you that much, just get a good used one, or even upgrade to a tilt column and be done.

Makes total sense. That's always been the draw back on the 2wd tranny use after a 4wd conversion. Cutting the output shaft would save you alot of time tearing into the BA10, Plus, At this point, what ya got to loose :dunno: If jpnjim said it will work, I don't dough him. At worst, you still have the parts from the 2wd BA10 to go the extreme route. But........what you write about the noise goes away when you push in the clutch........I'll agree, there's a problem with the slave/throw out bearing. I assume........you used the old clutch and parts??? Not new, while you had it all apart????